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Thread: Fertilizers for a non-C02 tank

  1. #1

    Fertilizers for a non-C02 tank

    Hi everyone,
    Here in Italy we don't have dry fertilizers, so I'm asking you if I can use this set of Dennerle fertilizers ( http://www.zooplus.it/shop/pesci/cur...ennerle/118785 ) which I already have.
    The composition of the fertilizers are:
    E15: 14.04% K20; 3.57% Fe; 1.08% Mn
    V30: 1% K20; 0.3018% MgO; 0.021% Boron; 0.006% Cu, 0.306% Fe, 0.122% Mn, 0.012 Mo, 0.006% Zn, 0.002% Co, 0.002% Nichel, 0.003% Li, 0.002% Al, 0.0015% Va
    for S7 I didn't found anything.
    Thank you!

    Also, here's a picture of my tank right now:

    Is it enough planted to use this method? will it be alright to add some cryptocoryne and a vallisneria?
    Thank you!
    Francesco

    edit: some information about my tank you might find useful: it's a 10 gallon, 1,4 wpg, non c02 tank, with anubias, microsorium, two echinodorus and hygrophila polysperma. I wanted to add a carpeting plant but I don't know what could be good. If you want some other information just ask!
    Last edited by Francesco; 02-20-2012 at 10:38 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Crypts are very adaptable but do feed off the substrate. What is the substrate in the your tank?



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  3. #3
    I have this one called "Vigor": http://www.geopetfood.com/geoshop/2-...tile-5-lt.html
    a layer of peat moss, and about 5 cm of gravel.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Surprise, AZ
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    Smile A little extra food now and then...

    Hi,

    Welcome!


    With the substrate, the Dennerle should be okay, low light, no CO2, perhaps over feed the fish now and then for a little extra Nitrate.


    Biollante
    The first sign we don't know what we are doing is an obsession with numbers. - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

    Disclaimer: I am not trying to make you mad, it is just what I am, an evil plant monster, 'nuf said.

    • I believe the information I am giving is sound, I am not a veterinarian, professional chemist or particularly bright and certainly not a "Guru.".
    • I assume you are of legal age, competent and it is legal for you to acquire, possess and use any materials or perform any action in your in your jurisdiction.
    • When in doubt "don't."

  5. #5
    ok thanks! How have I to dose it? on the box there is written to use 3 ml of V30 and 1 tablet of E15. I'm using half the dose they say. What do you suggest me?

  6. #6
    I think you could get the same or better results by using plain topsoil under a layer of 2mm - 3 mm gravel, and you wouldn't have to dose "V30" or "E15", whatever they are, either.

    I suggest that you add more plants and about 10 inches of small fish, and, as Biolante suggested, feed them well.

    Good luck!

    Bill

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Surprise, AZ
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    Smile I Think These Are Great Tanks!

    Hi,

    I am with Bill, top soil, the cheap stuff, or from your garden (assuming no pesticide use) then add more plants, more fish!


    I think adding crypts will be fine they are good low light root feeders that will take over. Crypts will appreciate soil.


    The Vallisneria tend to like brighter light, do well in harder water and do not need CO2. So the Vals are a closer call.

    If you do not want to add top soil
    , I would continue with what you are doing. Though I would still add plants and fish!

    Ask yourself, how do the plants look?

    Let the plants dictate, with low light and no added CO2 you really should not need much.


    Biollante
    The first sign we don't know what we are doing is an obsession with numbers. - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

    Disclaimer: I am not trying to make you mad, it is just what I am, an evil plant monster, 'nuf said.

    • I believe the information I am giving is sound, I am not a veterinarian, professional chemist or particularly bright and certainly not a "Guru.".
    • I assume you are of legal age, competent and it is legal for you to acquire, possess and use any materials or perform any action in your in your jurisdiction.
    • When in doubt "don't."

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Surprise, AZ
    Posts
    3,210

    Smile Missed That

    Hi,

    Sorry I missed the substrate thing; it appears to be quite rich, though a little mud never hurt.

    Biollante
    The first sign we don't know what we are doing is an obsession with numbers. - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

    Disclaimer: I am not trying to make you mad, it is just what I am, an evil plant monster, 'nuf said.

    • I believe the information I am giving is sound, I am not a veterinarian, professional chemist or particularly bright and certainly not a "Guru.".
    • I assume you are of legal age, competent and it is legal for you to acquire, possess and use any materials or perform any action in your in your jurisdiction.
    • When in doubt "don't."

  9. #9
    The sediment is like ADA.
    The split aquascape is a nice change for non CO2 designs, and has some interesting potential

    A few things could be done here:

    dwarf harigrass could be used for that region, or dwarf Clover, or some other hardy foreground plant, Crypt parva perhaps and you could use seAchem Excel, I think the brand in the EU is "Easy Carbo".

    You could add easy carbo for 3 months or so..........dose a small amount as suggested in the non CO2 articles, basically EI but 10-20X less.
    After the plants grow in and doing well, you stop adding the Easy carbo and add less of the fertilizer(about 1/2 as much again, so 20-40X less than EI).
    Once you stop adding the Easy carbo refrain from water changes, add enough for evaporation only.

    If anything is NOT easy to understand, let me know.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Barr View Post
    The sediment is like ADA.
    The split aquascape is a nice change for non CO2 designs, and has some interesting potential

    A few things could be done here:

    dwarf harigrass could be used for that region, or dwarf Clover, or some other hardy foreground plant, Crypt parva perhaps and you could use seAchem Excel, I think the brand in the EU is "Easy Carbo".

    You could add easy carbo for 3 months or so..........dose a small amount as suggested in the non CO2 articles, basically EI but 10-20X less.
    After the plants grow in and doing well, you stop adding the Easy carbo and add less of the fertilizer(about 1/2 as much again, so 20-40X less than EI).
    Once you stop adding the Easy carbo refrain from water changes, add enough for evaporation only.

    If anything is NOT easy to understand, let me know.
    First of all, thank you for considering my tank nice
    Well, I'm afraid the substrate I added is not enough: the instruction say to add 5 liters every 100 liters, and I added about 1 liter (I think ) in my 40 liters. However I added peat moss.
    Ragarding the carpeting plant, I've just bought online some crypto parva, thanks!
    What does EI mean? I'm sorry I'm not used to english advanced online forum
    So I have to add the fertilizers following the dose on the instructions when using excel (which I didn't understand how to dose) and when I stop I start again dosing half? The Dennerle instructions say to add the main fertilizers only every two weeks... will it be enogh?
    Also, while using excel (yes, even in italy it's called "excel") I have to perform regural water changes of about 30% every week?
    Thanks again and sorry for all the questions.
    Edit: I have also seachem phosphorus, which I had bought because the phosphate levels in my tank was too low. Do you suggest me adding it?

    I suggest that you add more plants and about 10 inches of small fish, and, as Biolante suggested, feed them well.
    ok thank you! I will add more fish as soon as I get more plants. I was thinking of adding otos, since the tank is already cycled. What do you think?
    What is topsoil? Have I really to add it now? It would be boring to remove the grave all over again :s
    Last edited by Francesco; 02-22-2012 at 12:08 AM.

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