Starting new tank - codename Frankenstein - critique wanted

[client]

It looks like there is a ceramic catalyst, a very cheap thing, which gets the oxygen out of the solution of hydrogen peroxide. You may request a link or two on private. I am not selling the product. I am glad you did restart your thread somehow though. And that it was all because of the way you linked the things up.

• device
• accessories

[Biollante]

Hi,

Given the calculated (my calculation) level of organic material start at 25-ml twice a day and perhaps if anything work up from there. 25-ml of 3% H₂O₂ should be about 6-ppm, which I will grant you is quite a bit and H₂O₂ is harsher than PP, but it is also quicker (1-step), cheaper and will not pull the DO levels. Use a baster or injection device of some kind and inject the H₂O₂ low (deep) and directly on or around any undesirable looking stuff.

This is rather a desperation attempt to oxidize organic material and boost the biological filtration.

I have been running my own tank approximating your organic levels and it appears that you may even be able to double or triple the H₂O₂; though do not get too carried away just yet.

Yes, I think the activated charcoal pad is good. For that matter, that super-duper powdered charcoal might be a good idea.

A bit about my simulations of your tanks, I have been running them for some time now and am even more convinced there is something in the water or somehow added.

The closest I seem to come to sustained high DOC conditions either is adding continually greater amounts of organic material or add Copper sulfate at sufficient rates to suppress but not kill the biological filtration.

So far, my filters, simple sumps, mechanical filtration and water spread by tea towels. Biological filtration using stainless steel dish scrubbers and recently (last 3-months) a variety of ceramic media I have been asked to evaluate. Into either, a bucket with some rock and a return pump or 5 or 10-gallon tanks with rock and a baffle or two for true sophistication. These seem to ramp up quite quickly to handle excess loads.

I have become adept at producing precise amounts of copper sulfate that suppresses biological filtration and does not kill shrimp or snails, but does retard or stop breeding and substantially reduces rotifer populations (principally by reduction in breeding, I think).

I think we pretty well eliminated copper as the culprit, but my understanding is that metal toxicities are rather similar. I have collected a good kit for screening for metals that I will bring with me.

I have read something about Client’s device, seems to me it uses a catalyst (since I see “Katalysator,” probably a good guess) to control the release of, or produce the H₂O₂. I will do a little reading…

Just saw Clients further post, I will comment later...

Biollante

[Florin Ilia]

H₂O₂ treatment started.

Premium ROX 0.8 Aquarium Carbon bag inserted in an awkward position under the sump's own sponge.

One of the new nerite snails is now missing a patch from the shell - this symptom is also similar with my old tank. Except that this snail never had algae attached. Do people actually grow snails at this pH?

Florin

Edit: about one hour or so after posting the above, the pH grew about 0.15 and stayed there until now (three hours later).

[Biollante]

Hi Florin,

I keep snails routinely in the pH 6’s, granted snails prefer alkaline waters but as long as good amounts of Calcium are available, I have not seen a problem. My experience has been snails do not care for higher redox (ORP) values.

My guess is the main reason the algae on the shell has not happened is your aggressive approach is keeping the algae at bay, combined with your imposing a ban on Vodka consumption.

The rate of consumption of bicarbonates (all of your alkalinity is bicarbonate) indicates rapid acidification, essentially your tank is and has been for some time, “crashing.” All of the PP and water changes just mitigating the collapse.

The bacteria in the filters are capable of “operating” down into the low pH 5’s. Though as with many critters, the sudden changes can harm them and this can add to the cascade.

The H₂O₂ may be able to oxidize enough organic material that the bacteria can catch up, but until we find the source, it really just continues to be an ongoing attempt to avoid the crash.

Among the reasons for adding baking soda is to increase and hopefully stabilize pH as pH slips below 6.5 or so the bacteria we depend on start having a tougher time, remember if biological filtration were our main goal we would work to stabilize your pH in the 7.5-7.8 range. Maintaining pH in the mid-6 range is a tradeoff for efficiency of filtration and keeping ammonia as NH₄^- to protect the critters and allow the plants to help with control. Our preference is to use CO₂ to maintain a stable under pH 7, pH 6.4-6.7 seems a good range.

It may be necessary to reduce CO₂ to maintain pH in the mid 6’s if you cannot accomplish this through the use of baking soda. The reduction in CO₂ however will probably add to the problem in that the plants will be consuming fewer nutrients.

In your case, something like 3.6-grams of baking soda should raise your pH 0.4. You need to be mindful of swings greater than pH 0.3 or so in 12-hour period can be hard on the critters. Given that bicarbonates are being consumed is the reason for the more aggressive dosing recommendations.

The high consumption of bicarbonate (buffering agent) is an indication of rotting material; biological processes tend to lower pH. In most cases, this is the result of a fairly large critter dying unseen, plants suddenly melting, rot in wood something of that sort, occasionally the die-off of a filter or population of worms, rotifers, daphnia or such.

I remain baffled and befuddled.

Biollante

[Florin Ilia]

Hi Bio, thanks for the explanation.

Was it not for that pesky +0.15 pH induced by the AC and/or the H₂O₂, I would proudly report a pH of exactly 6.6. Here are today's values:

t=26.5°C
KH=55 ppm=3.1 dKH
GH=144 ppm=8.1 dGH
pH=6.75
CO₂=29 ppm
TDS=327 ppm
ORP=202 mV
DO=7.58 ppm
NH_3/4=0.11 ppm
NO₂=0.022 ppm
NO₃=3.9 ppm

After taking the measurements I left the DO and ORP probes in the tank and added tonight's H₂O₂ dose. Both values climbed slowly and in half hour or so stabilized around
ORP=270 mV
DO=7.99 ppm

Florin

[Biollante]

Hi Florin,

That is encouraging; the rise in pH after the addition of activated charcoal is a positive indication.

It would have been interesting to have an alkalinity titration to pH 4.5 before and after the addition of activated charcoal, to see the corresponding rise of 7-ppm bicarbonate.

The rise in pH I believe is attributable to the sequestration of organic material.

I think it is safe to try 25-ml of 3% H₂O₂ three times a day, as close to 8-hours apart as you can.

Biollante

[Florin Ilia]

I think it is safe to try 25-ml of 3% H₂O₂ three times a day, as close to 8-hours apart as you can.

Mission acknowledged Sir!

[Biollante]

Hi Florin,

If you would refresh my memory on how you are testing KH.

Biollante

[Florin Ilia]

Hi Bio,

I have the LaMotte 4491-DR Alkalinity Test Kit.



Florin

[Biollante]

Hi Florin,

Thanks, I think I knew that used LaMotte and probably could have looked it up.

I am thinking, which is painful...

Biollante