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Thread: New Tank Build Thread

  1. #1
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    New Tank Build Thread

    Update 06/08/11 - Tank build is underway and I expect shipment date of 7/5/11...

    ********Update*************

    Tank has been ordered and deposit paid and more details around post #60 and greater if you want to start at that point...

    I expect to take delivery the first week of July...but NOT the weekend of the 4th Lol

    Final dimensions in inches are 72x20x36 lxhxd

    No bulkheads, all 4 sides Starphire glass and rimless style using clear silicone. Approx 220 US gallons.

    I expect to have a nice open scape/feel/look with this configuration.

    ****************************


    Hi all,

    So this thread will be to document a new tank design to REPLACE my current 180 gallon setup.

    Aquarium in inches: 72X24X30 which is about 220 US gallons. It will be 30" from front to back.Starphire glass on all 4 viewing panes even though it will be placed against the wall.

    Here is a link to what the tank will look like but the back will be unpainted and the back/side walls will NOT be drilled... I want to view it from each side as well as the front..I can do so now and want that to continue

    http://www.coasttocoastaquariums.com...pe=detail&id=2

    Stand - powder coated steel with custom fabricated light bar for suspension of the light fixture. The max distance to the water surface is currently 24" but may be increased. The stand will most likely by 30" high....maybe a couple inches higher as I am taller than some...but not all

    http://www.coasttocoastaquariums.com...e=detail&id=11

    All work to be done by Coast to Coast in NJ...

    Basic equipment

    Substrate - undecided here. May go ADA AS and be done with it. Or black flourite with some type of DIY improvement, worm castings or such. Most likely ADA as I like the thought of the longer term nutrient base and the plug and play installation... except for the three months of twice daily 100% water changes....

    Lighting - T5HO provided by this fixture here:

    http://www.aquaticlife.com/t5ho_six_lamp/index.html

    Going for only 50 PAR or so at substrate. I babble on a bit about this here:

    http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...quot-can-be-HO

    Filtration - two Eheim pro 3 with builtin heaters.

    Extra flow - Eheim water pump or similar.

    C02 - most likely one or two needle wheels or whatever is most effective and can be hidden

    Hardscape - specimen manzanita from Tom most likely

    Plants - tbd but lower maintenance is the goal...not many stems. Stauro, crypts, and ferns/anubias most likely. similar to what I have but better in every way!!!!

    Here is a link where I discuss dimensions, bulkhead placement and size, and the filtration/flow/plumbing configurations:

    http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...anning-Session

    I haven't pulled the tigger yet, but posting this thread helps me to decide. I am almost 99% there, just hard to spend that much $ for a 'fish tank'....

    Not much else to say at this point. If I decide yes, is 6 weeks lead time anyway.....

    Plenty of time to post as the project progresses..

    Later,
    Last edited by Gerryd; 06-08-2011 at 05:41 PM.
    Thanks,

    Gerry.

    'When something's not right, it's wrong'. Bob Dylan

    Current 220 scape

    http://www.barrreport.com/album.php?albumid=34

  2. #2
    For the water changes, simply use something like this placed ina discrete location:



    This can be plugged when not in use or left hanging in the tank at a pre set depth.
    Simply attach to the shower or other water source and add some dechlor.

    I'm a big fan of Wet/drys.
    Ehiems also work:



    So either way.

    Enclosed hoods are nice for some situations, but for gardening, open top is the only way to go IME/IMO.
    Amano agrees as well.

    ADA AS is good, you might consider a white sand foreground is all.
    Depends if you have fish that like to shift in sand etc and if you want some open space.

    I'd also suggest more front to back distance and less height.
    24" is fairly tall and gardening is not so easy there unless you can access your long arms.

    So 18"-20" H might give better sense. 30-34"Depth etc....

    This tank is going weight 600-700lbs at least. So you'll have a slippery bulky, heavy piece of glass to move around.
    Hope you are not on the 2 floor or higher. This is real SOB to move, I have a 24x24x72 tank and I hate moving it.
    I'll sell it when I move next time.

  3. #3
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    Hi Tom,

    Thanks for the reply..I also got your e-mail...

    I already use a spare mag 500 attached to flex hose and can drain 90-100 gallons in 15-20 mins..No bucket brigade for me....I than attach more flex to the kitchen tap to refill. Takes about 30-40 mins based on how much I removed.. Filling is slower than draining...during that time I trim and clean....

    I will most likely use 2-3 of the eheim pro III with the builtin heaters....

    Will use an external (or two) needle wheel for c02 and extra flow. This will all be plumbed under the tank and via bulkheads...

    No canopy for me. I want an open top....But will have the euro bracing due to the width I want..

    I was told the tank weighs 450 lbs. I will confirm..

    I can go with 18-20 high...I have a 24" now so am used to scaping and dealing with it....I like going even deeper front to back and will check back with the builder on these dims...Remember that I am already going with 30" depth front to back....so 34-36" would look sweet. Plus the lower profile.. Nice idea!

    I intend to have a moving company send 4-5 folks over with dollies..it will be in the parking lot in the spot right outside my door. It is a straight 20' to the final destination from that parking spot. Just two little concrete steps (or we could dolly it to the door the longer way) and then a tiny step up into the apartment on the FIRST floor. No turns right into the living room.

    So, theoretically it is lift on dollies, carefully steer to front door. Lift over 6" or less door sill, push 6' into living roon, then lift onto stand...Sounds easy doesn't it?

    Since I have had the 180 for over 10 years, I have always lived on the first floor.

    Yes, it is tough to move, but at my age I will always have to pay for movers.....I accept that living in an apt...

    I think the ADA may work well..How many bags would I need? 30-40?

    I do want some open spaces for the fish to swim and be seen..The alestes will get as large as congos and the tiger barbs are already a good size both are very active species which I like..

    I would want some specimen manzanita as focal points...and lots of open space with some ferny spots for apistos and kribs and the like....

    Appreciate the thoughts and suggestions....
    Last edited by Gerryd; 03-20-2011 at 02:38 AM.
    Thanks,

    Gerry.

    'When something's not right, it's wrong'. Bob Dylan

    Current 220 scape

    http://www.barrreport.com/album.php?albumid=34

  4. #4
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    Tom.

    Well the front door is only 35" wide so I think I will leave at 30" deep...

    I will think about the lower profile.. I do like that....

    It will be a bit deeper than my 180 and I will be happy with that..

    Remember that I lose 4" or so in each corner due to the wiers...so to me, I gain 10" of viewing pane with the change....

    The other thing is I could also lower the height of the stand 1-3" and facilitate maintenance and scaping...
    Thanks,

    Gerry.

    'When something's not right, it's wrong'. Bob Dylan

    Current 220 scape

    http://www.barrreport.com/album.php?albumid=34

  5. #5
    No, you can turn the tank side ways.
    Not an issue.

    32-34" x 20" is ideal.

    Once you see it, you'll agree.

    28" is about right for the stand, maybe 30".

    ADA bags, they are like 2 bags of Flourite for each.

    (ADA)I think I used 6 for my 120, this is about another 2 ft, but you might want more, so 9-12 bags.
    Let me know if you want to go this route. I think I can help you with a larger order and ship them to you.

    A forest of small bonsai with Bolbitus might be ideal, and fit well with an African theme.
    I keep some very fast African barbs. Sort of like the copper nose.

    BTW, you will virtually never find Anubias submersed in natural systems.
    Anubias are also good for Bonsai like trees.

    Hairgrass belem is good, but will get infested with hair algae, Riccia, Moss easily.
    So....if you want moss etc, then that is out. Starou is a better choice then.

    4-7 Trees in an open field seems interesting, gives plenty of swimming space.
    Sort of a tree based iwagumi.

  6. #6
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    Hi Tom,

    I forgot orientation I will investigate these new dims...

    Why is moving these tanks such a bear? I already have a 72x24x24 180 and I can move it with one other person. I had two movers easily roll with dollies and lift onto/off stand fairly easily.

    I realize this will be MUCH heavier and wider that a standard glass tank, but why would it be slippery? It will be shipped dry (I hope) and hopefully will NOT be raining here in June (ha ha during rainy season here )

    I am thinking 4-5 strong folks, dollies, and the suction cup thingies...

    ************************************************** ******

    Scaping - the thought of a forest of mini bonsai sounds nice.. I would most likely use stauro as a main ground cover....

    I will most likely go with ADA AS and will contact you on this. Thanks.

    You are starting to concern me re: the size and weight. I don't plan on moving but it will happen eventually. I do want to take it with me

    Good flow and high current for swimming schools...
    Thanks,

    Gerry.

    'When something's not right, it's wrong'. Bob Dylan

    Current 220 scape

    http://www.barrreport.com/album.php?albumid=34

  7. #7
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    Hi Gerry,

    Good luck on you new project. I'll be watching closely.
    regards,
    dutchy.

    My 2011, 2012 and 2013 AGA entries:
    http://www.barrreport.com/album.php?u=21013

  8. #8
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    Hi all,

    Submitted new dimension requirements based on Tom's excellent suggestion:

    72" in length x 20" in height x 36" in width (front to back).

    I think this lower profile and wider stance will be much more attractive especially as I like to look down into it...

    A friend pointed out earlier that my decision is just about made as I was explaining all the logistics to get it INTO the apartment lol

    I didn't/couldn't disagree but the final decision has not been made...is a big one at least for me....

    Will keep you posted. Thanks for listening. I am a bit excited about this and the possibilities....
    Thanks,

    Gerry.

    'When something's not right, it's wrong'. Bob Dylan

    Current 220 scape

    http://www.barrreport.com/album.php?albumid=34

  9. #9
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    Gerry I'm sure it will look amazing!!! Can't wait to see the progress. Shoot if you need help I'd drive up to check it out first hand!
    Thanks

    JJ

    Plants give me peace!

  10. #10
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    Gerry

    Keep in mind that as you go larger in diameter for bulkheads the other dimensions of the fittings get larger as well. I'd stay with 1" if I was to do it over rather than 1.5" for my 90g. I do like the 1.5" drain screen for the additional surface area but that could be easily adapted to the 1" bulkheads. 1.5" under a 30" high stand will get very crowded very fast.

    Also consider using black rather than clear RTV for the joints. With 3/4" glass it is very difficult to eliminate all bubbles and they are a bit distracting when using clear. With black they won't show nearly as much.

    good luck

    jim

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