Gerryd's regulator build thread

**Matt F.** · 01-24-2011, 02:25 AM

Well, it looks like I will be building a regulator for Gerryd.
The burkert solenoid has been ordered and is on it's way.
The purpose of this thread is two-fold. The first purpose is to allow Gerryd to witness his regulator being built, every step of the way. The second purpose of this thread is to help people should they want to build a regulator themself. I realize I have written a few DIY/How-To threads, but you can't ever have enough, imo.

So, the goal is an extremely high quality regulator assembly that will last many many years.

Here is the tentative parts list so far:

Burkert 6011 (brass) w/ viton seals
Swagelok post body npt components
Ideal valve w/ vernier handle (V52-1-12)
Nuaire/Victor VTS253A-1993 (new)
http://www.scientificvisions.com/cat...8oe8a7u48fqu35

Gerryd wants a hose barb instead of bubble counter, so I am going to run a 1/8" npt hex nipple to a b-2c4-1/3 check valve (female rather than male) to a swagelok hose barb/nut assembly.

Here are the links to see what I am talking about:

I'm going to run a male hex nipple from the ideal valve to this part (check valve):
http://www.swagelok.com/search-resul...x?qs=b-2c4-1/3

From this check valve, I will use this hose barb assemb.:
http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_...part=B-400-1-2
and
http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_...x?part=B-405-2

the two parts listed just above work together to lock the hose on the barb...no fear of pressure pushing the hose off the barb, ever. The hose will be secure.

Once the ball gets rolling, there will be tons of pictures! I will take pics of the new units as they come in (still sealed) and installed photos.

Should be interesting!

**Gerryd** · 01-24-2011, 02:46 AM

Hi Matt,

Thanks for posting this so quickly..

I just ordered the VTS 1993 regulator so that should be on its way soon to you...

I will order the needle valve tomorrow sometime. I would have done so today but know that some folks honor Sunday....

I sent a Paypal for the other needed post body swagelok parts..as well as a bit for upfront labor...

So, other than the lead time on the check valve, we should have a good start on things.

I appreciate you taking this on and look forward to showing off my new rig when up and running!

Can't wait to play with the Vernier handle

The reason for no bubble counter is that I use a needle wheel DIY so easy to see the bubble rate...I do it this way now and like it just fine...

Bubble counter is just one more component that for ME is not required.

**Matt F.** · 01-24-2011, 03:05 AM

I received your paypal payment. I sent you the refund of the difference. No need to pay extra at this point. It's easier for me to keep track if we use the exact amounts.

The swagelok brass parts are on order already. Will take a day or two for them to be formally accepted by my local swagelok distributor and to find out the lead time on the out-of-stock items (check valve). Will email you with the specifics of how long that part will take. It looks like the other components are in-stock.

Got confirmation that you ordered the new vts253a-1993 and burkert solenoid. Congrats! great choices.
10-4 on the Ideal valve. You'll be going with the V52-1-12, which has the vernier/micrometer handle. Like I mentioned I wrote a DIY on how to adjust the handle. I can set it when I leak test your unit prior to shipping.

For those of you who are wondering, we are running a swagelok brass post body on a Victor/Nuaire vts253a-1993 (chrome plated brass) regulator. Gerryd wants to focus on quality and function and doesn't mind mixing brass and chrome plated brass. I also suggested this to save money. Stainless components are roughly 2-3x the cost of brass from Swagelok (e.g. a b-2c2-1/3 is around $25 (brass). A ss-2c2-1/3 is $65+ stainless). Same functionality, but different metal.

Componets from Swagelok for you folks that don't know are made in Holland, Germany, and the USA.

**Gerryd** · 01-24-2011, 03:21 AM

Hi all,

For anyone horrified at the thought of mixing chrome plated brass and NORMAL brass, please note that my NEXT build will be gold plated with diamonds and jewels on both guages....

As Matt stated, I am much more interested in quality and function for this one..I assume I can always replace the brass parts with stainless steel, no?

Thanks for the updates and the excellent customer service so far!

**Matt F.** · 01-24-2011, 04:07 AM

In my opinion, the cost is not justified for stainless unless it's going to be on a show tank.
As it is, you have paid for premium brass components. These aren't any run-of-the-mill brass components.

You'd easily be paying twice what you did if you went stainless (for what? looks.). Consider it money saved for your next build.

**barbarossa4122** · 01-24-2011, 01:49 PM

Hi Gerryd,

Is your Victor 253 new ?

**Gerryd** · 01-24-2011, 02:21 PM

That is certainly my expectation...lol

Yes, I wanted a brand new rig/setup.....

**barbarossa4122** · 01-24-2011, 02:41 PM

Thanks Gerryd. I reckon a brand new dual manifold set up (Victor reg and 2 Ideal NVs) and stainless steel fittings will run me about $800.00. I already have the cylinders and the Burkerts. Am I correct ?

**Gerryd** · 01-24-2011, 05:44 PM

Well, it adds up quickly. You can get it for less by using brass....the stainless will run you 150-200 alone for the setup you describe....

When Matt pointed out the price diff between brass and stainless, I would rather spend that money on a better reg or something..so I got a new Victor reg..

Even in a display tank, I intend to hide my reg so even if gold plated, it will not be visible....