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Thread: Just had TWO parker solenoid valves die on me in one day!

  1. #1

    Just had TWO parker solenoid valves die on me in one day!

    Best I can figure is something in the coil crapped out. I bought two, when the first one died I just swapped the coil. That worked again for a while and now that one is dead too. Crap.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    5,513
    That's wierd AND stinks...

    Do you have a third, or what are you doing now?

    Knock wood, I have never had even a bad solenoid..... YET
    Thanks,

    Gerry.

    'When something's not right, it's wrong'. Bob Dylan

    Current 220 scape

    http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...3219-220-video

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Burlington, NC
    Posts
    2,510
    Quote Originally Posted by Gerryd View Post
    .... Knock wood .... YET

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Leesburg VA USA
    Posts
    276
    I had one go bad but that was a Clippard. It really never did work properly. Anyway, I bought one of those Ebay Parker Solenoids and it has been absolutely rock solid. I was convinced it was way better than the Clippard but, maybe not. I was thinking of buying a spare Parker since the price is right but, maybe I'll just take my chances with the one I have.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Gerryd View Post
    what are you doing now?
    I'm using a magnet to hold the valve open. I'll have to manually control the thing till I figure something out.

  6. #6
    I just noticed this in the ebay listing for these parker solenoids we're all buying:

    As is the custom at such sales, most of the box labels were removed prior to the time we received the shipment. Thus, we never found a comprehensive label that we could photograph, and we do not know the exact "Parker" part number. Somebody missed enough label shreds, however, so that we can tell you the maximum ambient operating temperature for continuous duty is 68F, maximum fluid temperature is 180F, response time is 8 to 16 milliseconds, cycles per minute is 600, body is 303 Stainless, and the coil encapsulant material is nylon. The seals are Buna-N (aka Nitrile and NBR) which would make them compatible with air, inert gases, water, alcohols, and petroleum-based oils and fuels.
    68*F max ambient temp for continuous duty?! That's no good. Tells me the coils can't deal with heat well at all or aren't really meant to be used in continuous duty they way we need. Just based on my experience, I gotta give these valves a thumbs down for us.

  7. #7
    Is it even worth wiring the Parker or should I just look for a new solenoid?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Burlington, NC
    Posts
    2,510
    Quote Originally Posted by Oreo View Post
    Best I can figure is something in the coil crapped out. I bought two, when the first one died I just swapped the coil. That worked again for a while and now that one is dead too. Crap.
    I forgot to mention this. But have you tried contacting the seller, sherrodsurplus? He made good on someone's that went bad on TPT.

    What do you think of the Bürkert solenoids?

  9. #9
    I haven't bought a burkert yet. I also haven't contacted SherrodSurplus yet either. I probably should on both accounts but I've been kinda busy around the house lately and with family obligations. Haven't had a chance to sort this one out yet. I did buy a replacement coil with a proper power cord (not a heat-shrink home-brew job) on ebay. I'm hoping that works. Truth is, I completely disassembled one of the faulty valves just to see the internal build quality. The "pressure vessle", aka the stainless valve is constructed beautifully. GLA's valves have nothing on the Parkers. We're just buying the wrong coil.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Oreo View Post
    I haven't bought a burkert yet. I also haven't contacted SherrodSurplus yet either. I probably should on both accounts but I've been kinda busy around the house lately and with family obligations. Haven't had a chance to sort this one out yet. I did buy a replacement coil with a proper power cord (not a heat-shrink home-brew job) on ebay. I'm hoping that works. Truth is, I completely disassembled one of the faulty valves just to see the internal build quality. The "pressure vessle", aka the stainless valve is constructed beautifully. GLA's valves have nothing on the Parkers. We're just buying the wrong coil.
    Do you have any more information on the proper power cord and coil for these Parkers?

    Thanks

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