drop checkers

[anafranil]

Hi,I have been using a ph controller to dose my co2 so far.after doing a brief research on the site I have seen lots of people using drop checkers,what's the most frequent and accurate method being used by members here?If it is drop checkers can i have some feedback on them or maybe some links on detailed information on them?thanks a lot

[Tug]

Hi,
This is a little reading to get you started. I find the amount of lag time to be about an hour behind the actual reading. You will also get different readings depending on where it is placed in the tank. http://www.njagc.net/articles/co2dropchecker.htm

[Gerryd]

Hi,

Drop checkers (DC) can be useful to guage an APPROXIMATE amount of c02, but it is a guess after all.

A DC solution should be changed weekly and moved around the tank every few days to see how the color is in that part of the tank.

A DC may take SEVERAL hours to record results, so by the time you see the color, the amount of c02 in solution at that point may easily have changed. Tom has shown with a good meter that c02 can flunctuate from leaf to leaf and minute to minute

An issue with a controller is that they react to ANY cause of ph drop, not just due to increased carbon. So, the gas may be shut off/on incorrectly causing unstable c02 issues.

Most here just use a timer and have the c02 come on about 60-90 minutes PRIOR to lights on. Turn the c02 off about 30 minutes PRIOR to lights off.

Read the DC link above and it is pretty simple really.

A DC is just a TOOL, and even a 'good' color is no guarantee of 'good' c02 levels.

[Philosophos]

Gerry's post is dead on. DC's are a matter of moving things around and observing for days at a time. You won't get accurate levels for time of day, and you won't notice a 5ppm change. This tool moves slowly, it's fairly general, but it does help one learn principles within the hobby. I still use mine for lack of a better method of measuring when I'm trying to figure out something new.

-Philosophos

[Elkmor]

Drop checker (kH=4) indicates the amount of CO2.

Other ways indicates pH wich is not the same.

[anafranil]

ok,so the kH/pH chart is the most common used method?aiming in high co2 values near the tolerance levels of fishes,maybe a little lower?on a timer,on when lights on,right?

[Philosophos]

the KH/pH chart thing doesn't work if you use the column; there's more to pH in an aquarium than KH and CO2. This is why drop checkers were invented in the first place. The pH solution is DI H2O with some sodium bicarb, the bromothymol blue indicates pH, and so the chart works in a relatively closed system.

-Philosophos

[anafranil]

ok you don't use the chart,you don't use drop checkers,you don't use pH controllers,what do you use?Im not experienced enough to dose by looking the plants, responce.the purpose of this thread was to understand what is the most common method used by people in the forum.i'm starting with EI and have some expierience in dosing ferts but i am a liitle bit worried with co2 as most people here emphasize the importance of maintaining high levels of it.I did not come through a post yet talking about how to dose co2 despite the fact i read lots of them

[Philosophos]

Drop checkers are the most common method; no doubt. KH-pH from column is being drummed into obscurity slowly.

People who learn to watch their plants or can afford better methods (pH meters $$) often seem to develop a dislike for them. I can understand having better tools, but drop checkers will alert you about some issues before your eye ever can.

One mild change in flow that you didn't notice bumping a powerhead or outtake can alter the average color of a drop checker, and alert you to the fact that something is up with your CO2 levels or distribution. The DC will react in 2 hours instead of a day or two, and you can notice any extreme changes from across the room.

-Philosophos

[Tom Barr]

Folks can use a mix of methods, say pH/Kh and the drop checkers, I use plants/algae/fish.

Takes time and experience to get good at it and even then, issues can occur if you are too hasty.

There's no one single cure all method for CO2, it's more about getting close with test(either or both), then eyeball the rest slow and progressively and patiently, not stressing the fish, providing good current, reasonable light intensity etc.

Many get impatient, or think it's something else, or do not show CO2 the respect required, do not have enough current/mixing, have too much light etc.

This is why CO2 is the crux of most issues.


Regards,
Tom Barr