Dual Stage Regulators

[Left C]

What other items do I need in order to use this metering valve swagelok whitey (SS-0RS2)?

Hi eiginh

Here's the SS-ORS2 valve: http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...x?part=SS-ORS2
Bonnet valves: http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/we.../MS-01-164.pdf

Your valve has 1/8 in. Swagelok Tube Fittings. You can mount it two ways. You can either use 1/8" OD tubing or mount it solidly using either male or female adapters in either brass or stainless steel.



brass male: http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...art=B-2-TA-1-2
stainless steel male: http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...rt=SS-2-TA-1-2

brass female: http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...art=B-2-TA-7-2
stainless steel female: http://www.swagelok.com/search/produ...rt=SS-2-TA-7-2

The other parts for assembly are pretty straight forward.

Left C

[Left C]

Left C, what parts do you use with victor 253a-1993 model? (I think you have more than 1, not sure...) Anyway if you can please list all according to the particular regulator.

I just wrote up assembly instructions, but I can't post it yet. It contains too many images for the forum. Tom will have to change the settings.

Let me try to send you a PM. It worked.

Rex wrote a guide too that may be helpful.
http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm

[Left C]

Parts Used to Build CO2 Regulators Some Different Ways

These are the parts & most of the wrenches needed to build a regulator several ways using different solenoids, different adapters, metering valves and with or without a JBJ bubble counter are listed. I wrote them in the order that they are attached.


VTS253A-1993 regulator



remove the brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter and discard - 9/16" wrench



The brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter on the regulator that you have to remove is on very tight. A vice is very helpful. You put the hex part of the adapter in a vice and turn the regulator. You don't scratch or damage the regulator this way.

This is how I removed it without a vice. I got my 9/16" x 1/2" boxed end wrench and used an open end wrench locked on to the 1/2" side of the boxed wrench. This in essence makes a longer wrench and provides more leverage. I laid the regulator on a rug. Then I put the 9/16" side of the wrench on the barbed adapter and I stood on the regulator to remove the adapter. I had to turn it a little bit at a time and I had to keep getting another "bite" on the adapter, but I got it off.


Some regulators don't have barbed adapters. They can have different types of adapters. My Victor VTS253D-320 shows one of the other types of adapters that still has to be removed.



This is my Victor VTS253D-320 with a Burkert solenoid, Ideal metering valve, and JBJ bubble counter that I am going to show how to build it. I am also going to show a Clippard solenoid and a Swagelok metering valve that can be used as well. They are going to be shown in the order that they are assembled.



Contimued Below

[Left C]

brass 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 9/16" wrench

42-1: http://bigway.com/CARTgallery26.htm


brass 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT elbow - 5/8" wrench

32-1: http://bigway.com/CARTgallery12.htm


Burkert solenoid


or

Clippard solenoid - hold in hand or use a 7/8" wrench


brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench

41-1: http://bigway.com/CARTgallery24.htm


Ideal Metering Valve - 9/16" wrench


or

Swagelok metering valve


brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench

41-1: http://bigway.com/CARTgallery24.htm


JBJ bubble counter - tighten by hand
brass 12 mm nut on top of JBJ bubble counter - 1/2" or 12 mm wrench


Yours should look something like the VTS253D-320 above with your choice of solenoids and metering valves.

TOOL LIST
a vice is very handy for assembly
these are not needed if you have a vice - 9/16" x 1/2" boxed end wrench or 9/16" x 5/8" boxed end wrench
5/8" open end wrench
7/8" open end wrench (optional)
7/16" open or boxed end wrench
9/16" open end wrench
9/16" boxed end wrench (optional)
1/2" or 12 mm open or boxed end wrench
regulator nut wrench, 1 1/8" open end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, etc.

or a combination of 8", 10" and 12" crescent wrenches.


Some people use Teflon tape. I use a non hardening pipe joint compound.

OATEY 31229 GREAT WHITE Pipe Joint Compound w/Teflon, 1oz. http://www.hardwareandtools.com/Oate...e-6596696.html
"Lubricates and seals all threaded joints. White, non-hardening, non-separating, non-toxic paste. Withstands up to 3,000 PSI on gases from -50 to +400 degrees F, and 10,000 PSI on liquids from -50 to +500 degrees F. For use with water, steam, caustic or dilute acid lines of PVC, CPVC, ABS, cycolac, polypropylene, iron, steel or copper."



Contimued Below

[Left C]

Here is some more info concerning regulator connection parts.


If you don't need an elbow and JBJ bubble counter, you can rig it different ways.


- Use the 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT reducer between the regulator and solenoid.

42-1: http://bigway.com/CARTgallery26.htm


or

- This way requires two parts. Use a 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT reducing bushing attached to the regulator.

38-1: http://bigway.com/CARTgallery21.htm


and either one of these styles of nipples

1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple

41-1: http://bigway.com/CARTgallery24.htm


or

1/8" MPT nipple



Your choice of solenoid.


and either one of these styles of nipples

1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple

41-1: http://bigway.com/CARTgallery24.htm


or

1/8" MPT nipple


Your choice of metering valve


1/8" MPT x 1/8" barbed adapter



Contimued Below

[Left C]

Here are two other ways to do an elbow. Each requires two parts.


- 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT elbow attached to the solenoid.


and either one of these styles of nipples attached to the solenoid and the Ideal valve

1/8" MPT hex nipple

41-1: http://bigway.com/CARTgallery24.htm


or

1/8" MPT nipple



There are many other ways to build your regulator. It depends on what parts are available and the pricing.


Left C

[Tom Barr]

Can we do a nice edit "Regulator lite" say limited to 1 full page to make another sticky for this thread? If they want more, they can come to this thread?


Regards,
Tom Barr

[Left C]

Can we do a nice edit "Regulator lite" say limited to 1 full page to make another sticky for this thread? If they want more, they can come to this thread?


Regards,
Tom Barr

I sent you a PM.

[Koen_v_V]

Hi! Great to read that ebay in the americas have good buys on dual stage regs.

I'm in Holland (Europe) and don't have access to those victors and other often named brands, especcially because we don't use CGA320 but DIN477. Dual stage is hard to find over here, but somewhere in a thread I found Vulkan regs, which can be delivered dual stage. So I'm reading an awfull lot (more than 16 hours I guess) of postings and websites for my own build. As I have a Swagelok dealer nearby, I've come up with following setup. I will use a bubble counter inline and no solenoid, as it gets hot, can break down and don't see why CO2 can't run at night keeping it out of the critical ranges for shrimp and fish. (And I still have 2 inline solenoids lying around...) This build is to exchange my current Dupla none metered reg (which is very unstable medium and high output volumes and pressures in diffusor, an ordanary pain in the ass.

The build:
1. Vulkan F10/2 (output 0-10bar, fitting: male G1/4" RH (don't know what it means, except 1/4") 200 euros
http://www.barrreport.com/asset.php?...2&d=1260454101
2. Swagelok B-4-E: Brass Pipe Fitting, Elbow, 1/4 in. Female NPT
3. Swagelok B-4MA2-MH: Brass Medium-Flow Angle-Pattern Metering Valve, 1/4 in. MNPT (including vernier handle)

4. Swagelok B-2-HC-7-4: Brass Hose Connector, 1/4 in. Female NPT, 1/8 in. Hose ID
or
4. Swagelok B-6M0-1-2: Brass Swagelok Tube Fitting, Male Connector, 6 mm Tube OD x 1/8 in. Male NPT
with Swagelok B-6M5-4M: Brass Tubing Insert, 6 mm OD x 4 mm ID

The tubing, diffusor (AM1000 with an eheim 2217) is already in place. Do you guys know whether this is a good idea or am I forgetting something? It's for a net 120 gal tank.

Thanks a lot in advance!

[Koen_v_V]

Hi Guys,

As the Vulkan reg kan be delivered, there are two models available:
0-20 PSI (model F10/2) output or 0-140 PSI (model F15-2)

So should I take the 0-140 PSI? Here is the translated link http://translate.google.com/translat...t-LabLine.html

Hope you guys can give any thoughts about this choice...

Cheers, Koen.