Dual Stage Regulators

[slidez]

Ooo boy I ordered me a buncha goodies for this coming month. Watching the videos on the swagelok site seemed to help me understand a bunch more, once I realized the tube actually inserts into the valve rather than thinking I had to unscrew the female end stuck on the valve it made a lot more sense.

Basically this is what I ordered and I hope my research ended up correct:
Matheson metering valve which I will use a 1/4" to 1/8th adapter in the 6/7 o'clock socket. Then an elbow which will connect to my clippard solenoid with 1/8th connections. From there I will connect it to a 3-way manifold. The MV's will then have two of the B-4-TA-1-2 connected to make it into a male 1/8th NPT, I will then connect one end to the manifold, the other male end will have JBJ bubble counter screwed in. Tubing goes into and voila I should be complete.

Is there any reason I can't just making my own splitting manifolds by rigging up a couple of brass Tee's? It would be way faster than waiting on shipping since the npt parts are readilly available locally....

[S&KGray]

Getting closer to completing my dual stage regulator CO2 setup. I have a 5 lb aluminum tank, black 1/4"OD 1/8"ID tubing, Swagelok 1/8" FNPT to 1/4" OD tube fittings, and the following:

Victor SGT500 Regulator
DSC00654.jpg

2 - Parker SS Solenoids 1/4"
DSC00692.jpg

3 - Parker HR Series Precision Metering valves 1/8"
DSC00691.jpg

2 - Parker SS Check valves 1/8"
DSC00690.jpg

3 - Boyu Inline CO2 diffusers
DSC00689.jpg

Still need to get the Swagelok 1/4" OD 1/8" ID tube inserts, bubble counters, barbed check valves for in between the BC and diffuser, and the SS 1/4" and 1/8" NPT fittings that I need.

Questions/comments/suggestions welcome.

[Left C]

Getting closer to completing my dual stage regulator CO2 setup. I have a 5 lb aluminum tank, black 1/4"OD 1/8"ID tubing, Swagelok 1/8" FNPT to 1/4" OD tube fittings, and the following:

Victor SGT500 Regulator
Attachment 1092

2 - Parker SS Solenoids 1/4"
Attachment 1091

3 - Parker HR Series Precision Metering valves 1/8"
Attachment 1090

2 - Parker SS Check valves 1/8"
Attachment 1089

3 - Boyu Inline CO2 diffusers
Attachment 1088

Still need to get the Swagelok 1/4" OD 1/8" ID tube inserts, bubble counters, barbed check valves for in between the BC and diffuser, and the SS 1/4" and 1/8" NPT fittings that I need.

Questions/comments/suggestions welcome.

That's a nice collection!!

[fordtrannyman]

Does anyone know if Swagelok makes a 1/4" Tube to Barb Fitting? Part # Please.
I don't see their barb fitting.

[S&KGray]

B-2-HC-A-401 Brass Hose Connector, 1/4 in. Tube Adapter, 1/8 in. Hose ID

B-4-HC-A-401 Brass Hose Connector, 1/4 in. Tube Adapter, 1/4 in. Hose ID

[fordtrannyman]

B-2-HC-A-401 Brass Hose Connector, 1/4 in. Tube Adapter, 1/8 in. Hose ID

B-4-HC-A-401 Brass Hose Connector, 1/4 in. Tube Adapter, 1/4 in. Hose ID

Thanks Man, I must of had a brain fart-didn't look in Hoses and Flexible Tubing section.
They're proud of those at $5.64 each and they're on back order.

I can always use 1/4" Tube to 1/8" NPT and add an NPT to barb on to that.

[Darkblade48]

Just a quick note to people:

I have been having some issues with a Swagelok B-SS2-A metering valve that I purchased (this is a chrome-plated brass body metering valve). It has tube fittings on the valve body. I used a tube fitting to 1/8" male NPT adapter (part # SS-2-TA-1-4) so that I could connect one end of the metering valve to my solenoid and the other end to a JBJ bubble counter.

Unfortunately, while installing the JBJ bubble counter (I had the setup for awhile before putting on the JBJ bubble counter), I was checking for leaks and found some leaks between the nuts of the metering valve and the tubing adapter.

After some troubleshooting, a Swagelok technician came into my lab and quickly diagnosed the problem. Apparently, mixing brass and stainless steel is not a good idea (the nuts were part of the metering valve, and are also chrome plated brass; the adapters, as mentioned, are stainless steel). It has something to do with the fact that the brass ferrules of the valve cannot grip onto the steel tubing on the adapter tightly enough, and thus, a leak results.

I suggest other people that are using this combination of brass/stainless steel to double check their connections!

Side note: LeftC, your inbox is full

[Left C]

That's great info!!!

[Darkblade48]

Here is my current CO2 setup, for those that are curious (pictures are clickable and will open in a larger resolution in a new window/tab).



10 lb CO2 tank
Victor HPT272-350B dual stage regulator
Parker Solenoid
Swagelok B-SS2-A metering valve
JBJ Bubble counter

Here is a picture showing the leak.



The brass hex nut that is part of the metering valve is on the bottom (the letter" ELOK 316" can just be seen). The stainless steel tubing adapter is the piece directly above it (this then connects to the brass JBJ bubble counter).

A similar leak occurs between the hex nut and the tubing adapter immediately to the left of the solenoid (also pictured, but no soapy solution was added to demonstrate this leak).

Finally, for anyone that is using the JBJ bubble counter, do you notice that if you use pipe dope (pipe compound) between the 1/8" connection of the needle valve and the bubble counter, that there is a leak? I am noticing that there is a very slight (but noticeable with soapy water) leak at this connection. I am wondering if it has something to do with the pipe compound vs. the teflon tape. I have already tightend this down as far as I can with a relatively long wrench, so...

[thrak76]

A similar leak occurs between the hex nut and the tubing adapter immediately to the left of the solenoid (also pictured, but no soapy solution was added to demonstrate this leak).

Now this has me worried, because i have those same Parker solenoids. I haven't got the valves yet, but i am anticiapting them to be chrome plated brass...

I am wondering if there is a way to avoid this leak. Perhaps an extra fitting between the solenoid and the valve (no idea...:-) )? I wonder if the same problem would occur if you used a brass adapter between the valve and the solenoid, and the solenoid to the regulator. Are you experiencing any leaks between the solenoid and the regulator? Is your regulator brass?