Dual Stage Regulators

[Matt F.]

After the check valve, my build uses a 1/8 NPT to 1/8 Hose Barb adapter.

1 x B-2C4-1/3 1/8 NPT females Check Valve
1 x B-2-HC-1-2 Hose Barb 1/8 in ID tubing to 1/8 Male NPT



After his check valve, his build uses a 1/8 NPT to Swagelok tube fitting adapter, and then a tubing insert (6 mm OD x 4 mm ID)

B-2C2-1/3 (Poppet Check Valve, Fixed Pressure, 1/8 in. MNPT)
B-6M0-7-2 (Brass Swagelok Tube Fitting, Female Connector, 6 mm Tube OD x 1/8 in. Female NPT)
B-6M5-4M (Tubing Insert, 6 mm OD x 4 mm ID)


The question is, do both of our methods have the same end result, and is one a better way of getting there than the other? Mine is called a 1/8 in Hose Connector whereas his is called a 6 mm x 4 mm ID Tubing Insert...Is this significant?

Although both ways will transfer CO2 to your tanks, the tube fitting will provide a more leak proof alternative to the "barb" option. The ferrules in the tube fitting option provide a leak free conntection long term. The "barb" option can leak over time as the tube degrades.
The difference between 1/8" ID/ 1/4" OD and 4mm ID/6mm OD is significant. They are different sized tubes.

[Doc7]

Great thank you - seems like he will be well off using those parts then!

[Left C]

Something that many of us have noticed is that CO2 tubing comes in many sizes from the various vendors. This is one reason why I stick with 1/8" ID x 1/4" OD x 1/16" wall Tygon Lab tubing. I know what I'm dealing with and I can get parts in the correct size for this tubing. As you can see, Tygon Lab tubing comes in many sizes including 4mm ID x 6mm OD. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...3367&catid=864

Tygon comes in many varieties: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/def...kid=topnavmenu

[Doc7]

I see that. Glad I asked because a Google search and an off-hand comment by someone else found through that search led me to believe that they were different ways of referring to the same tubing. Now I've gotta rethink how I want to roll, post-check valve...Barb or Swagelok tube insert...

[GillesF]

Got a reply from my seller today regarding my damaged regulator and apparently there's no damage to be seen, huh?
What else could cause a strong increase in working pressure when the co2 supply shuts off? The solenoid?

[Left C]

Got a reply from my seller today regarding my damaged regulator and apparently there's no damage to be seen, huh?
What else could cause a strong increase in working pressure when the co2 supply shuts off? The solenoid?

How strong? An increase in working pressure when the solenoid shuts off may or may not present a problem. It may be the way that your single stage regulator behaves. As long as nothing bad happens when the solenoid opens again, it should work. You need to watch it and see. You might can play with its working pressure some and see if you can minimize it. I am not familiar at all with your brand of regulator. I sure wish that a two stage regulator was available for you. Good luck!

[Lost Csr]

Like Gilles stated they are available but will cost and arm and a leg to get one.

For example a VTS253B-320 for a distributor here cost 500euros tax not included which is 18%, oh and plus shipping.

Rather buy it from the States and have it shipped over here.

[GillesF]

How strong? An increase in working pressure when the solenoid shuts off may or may not present a problem. It may be the way that your single stage regulator behaves. As long as nothing bad happens when the solenoid opens again, it should work. You need to watch it and see. You might can play with its working pressure some and see if you can minimize it. I am not familiar at all with your brand of regulator. I sure wish that a two stage regulator was available for you. Good luck!

It went from 2,5 bar (35 PSI) to 5-7 bar (70-100 PSI). Doesn't look normal to me ...

Like Lost Csr said: dual stage regulators are available but they are way too expensive, at least for now. Not to mention that they look very awkward and are difficult to install inside a cabinet.

[Left C]

It went from 2,5 bar (35 PSI) to 5-7 bar (70-100 PSI). Doesn't look normal to me ...

Does it decay over time? I "assume" that you are using a timer and the solenoid is off for 10 to 14 hours or so.

If it holds its pressure over time, is there are harmful rush of CO2 into the aquarium when the solenoid opens?

I'm just shooting from the hip trying to help you. I'm not familiar with your equipment.

Like Lost Csr said: dual stage regulators are available but they are way too expensive, at least for now. Not to mention that they look very awkward and are difficult to install inside a cabinet.

I know. I was wishing just that you did.

[jaidexl]

Hi folks, I've finally been bitten by the bug. Scored this Matheson 3813 for $55 and a new SS-2MA4-KZ-MH for $60. Apparently this particular metering valve is alittle different in that the o-ring material (KZ) is Kalrez , resistant to over 1800 chemicals and resilient to dramatic temperature fluctuations. Not sure if that's relevant to our application but the thing has got to be over 120 list at Swagelok, so I'm pretty stoked. Just waiting for my SS fittings to come in as well. I'm going to pirate the chrome plated stem off my micro-matic.