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Thread: Earth worm casting for nutrient enriched sediments, how to

  1. #31
    No experience with that Antibiotic(AB), as long as it targets gram positive bacteria, it should be fine I would think.

    For AB treatments, I typically do a large water change, run lights/CO2/redose etc used EM for days 1, then water change at day 3, followed by another dose.

    Wait another 2-3 days, water change and then keep up on dosing thereafter, particularly good KNO3 and water changes/cleaning etc of filters.

    Never comes back if you keep on top of things.

    You can correct the root causes, but often that alone does not kill what is already there.

    So a BO for 3 days, EM etc, is used to kill what is there.........plus the long term correction(low NO3/dirty filters etc).

    Green water is similar.

    Regards,
    Tom Barr

  2. #32
    Ok, many thanks for clarifications,

    Clarithromycine is quiet same spectra as EM, but it has a more bactericide action. I just realised that it should be dosed 50% of EM, because the bactericid effect is 2x compared to EM.

    Anyway, I'll keep dosing and WC as you suggested

    Hopefully, it goes forever
    Aquatic Natur Cocoon 7: 11gal, dry start success / low light / CO2
    >>Follow it here<<

    Aquatlantis Evasion 120: Stopped ---> Malawi setup = No Plants

  3. Tom, thanks for reporting on WC.

    I'm about to give it a try and have some questions. If I'm being too particular, someone please say so and I'll just go for it and see what happens.

    1. Is there any moisture content of the WC in the 1 to 2 kg for 50 liters of water guideline? The WC I purchased has obvious moisture content. After boiling and complete drying, I'm guessing it will weigh substantially less than when purchased.

    2. How hard does it have to be boiled? If it doesn't need a hard boil, I'm just going to use an old crockpot and let it bubble quietly for say an hour or two in the garage. (I have a great wife but don't want to push by boiling worm crap in one of her good pots on the stove.)

    Thanks in advance for any answers.

  4. #34
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    Talking Not Exactly, Exacting

    Quote Originally Posted by kcharley View Post
    Tom, thanks for reporting on WC.

    I'm about to give it a try and have some questions. If I'm being too particular, someone please say so and I'll just go for it and see what happens.

    1. Is there any moisture content of the WC in the 1 to 2 kg for 50 liters of water guideline? The WC I purchased has obvious moisture content. After boiling and complete drying, I'm guessing it will weigh substantially less than when purchased.

    2. How hard does it have to be boiled? If it doesn't need a hard boil, I'm just going to use an old crockpot and let it bubble quietly for say an hour or two in the garage. (I have a great wife but don't want to push by boiling worm crap in one of her good pots on the stove.)

    Thanks in advance for any answers.
    Hi,

    My experience with worm poop comes from 100% Pure Earthworm Castings and has high moisture content, after boiling and drying, you will lose about half the weight and increase the volume a bit.

    I use the ‘out of the bag weight’ to calculate the amount to use. To be frank any recipe that gives “1 or 2 kg for 50 liters” is hardly exacting. In what passes for real life with me, I “eyeball it,” this stuff is a very rich mixture. My next time around I will weigh and measure all the before and after stuff.

    My experience with this and other organic material prepared by boiling, requires a hard rolling 20 minute minimum boil, any clumps need to be broken. You really need to boil the crap out of this poop. This is where a cheap set of non-reactive cookware is handy. Though as bad as it sounds it really is not nearly as nasty as it sounds.

    I am reasonable sure, that two to four hours in a crock-pot ought to work just fine, if not as dramatically, just be sure to stir well a few times.

    Good luck, have fun,
    Biollante
    The first sign we don't know what we are doing is an obsession with numbers. - Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

    Disclaimer: I am not trying to make you mad, it is just what I am, an evil plant monster, 'nuf said.

    • I believe the information I am giving is sound, I am not a veterinarian, professional chemist or particularly bright and certainly not a "Guru.".
    • I assume you are of legal age, competent and it is legal for you to acquire, possess and use any materials or perform any action in your in your jurisdiction.
    • When in doubt "don't."

  5. #35
    I honestly do not know, a nice moist clay/peat seems fine to me, could be starting weight also.

    Still moisture varies greatly, but I do not think it's that important.
    A better solution is using volume.

    So 1kg = 1 liter of water

    So 1 kg= 1 liter of volume

    I assume most boil it hard for 10minutes.
    I suppose crock potting it might work for a few hours also.


    Regards,
    Tom Barr

  6. Thanks guys. Okay volume and eyeballing it, it will be. I'll start the crockpot going tomorrow night and let you know how it goes.
    If the crockpot doesn't work I'll figure out a way to hard boil without upsetting my wife.

    With all apologies to von Goethe, I am a CPA (clown prince of accounting). We really do know what the numbers mean, we just can't explain it to anyone not an accountant.

    Thanks again.

  7. #37
    You don't need to let it dry before use, unless you like to store it for some time

    Also, I didn't rince untile water comes clear, felt it is too much nutrients lost. Just rinced 2 times to remove floating material
    Aquatic Natur Cocoon 7: 11gal, dry start success / low light / CO2
    >>Follow it here<<

    Aquatlantis Evasion 120: Stopped ---> Malawi setup = No Plants

  8. #38
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Barr View Post

    Usage: Earthworm castings should be used in moderation, and do not need to be completely dry for usage. They should be diluted with washed sand in a 50-50 ratio. The combination of earthworm castings and sand should approach 1kg of mixture for every 50 liters of aquarium water (for example, in an aquarium of 100 liters I recommend to use between 2 and 4 kg of earthworm castings). It is best to use the mixture as the first, bottom-most layer of your substrate. If you plan to build an extremely deep substrate, it can be used within the middle layers.r
    can someone please explain? I am confused with the underline words.

    for example:
    I have a 100-liter tank. According to the statement above, it would use a maximum of 4 Kgs of castings and another 4Kg sand (because of the 50/50 ratio). And the rest of the substrate is made up soil. Is this correct? Is loam soil okay to use?

    Thank you very much
    Last edited by jarthel; 11-19-2009 at 03:12 AM.

  9. Sory for using the thread, but it is about very similar matter, so I would like to ask Tom, something that has been discussed on other forum:
    You recomended the use of dolomite for a substrate, but I just wondered could we use dolomite with Worm castings or osmocote, so we get better aesthetics and fertility?
    Is the dolomite has positive CEC? I have read that calcium magnesium carbonate(dolomite) is used for enrichment of soils with Ca and Mg, but I'm afraid that this could influence water parameters as DH and Kh in aquariums? I think it is very close to limestone?!
    I have done research about the use of montmorillonite, but the one that is find in my area has Na for exchange ions and that is not good I think for aquarium?

    Regards
    "One who cannot love her smallest creations, cannot claim to stand in front of Nature"

    http://doaqua.blogspot.com

  10. #40
    2-3mg/l sounds about the right dosing........
    Typically for EM, the dose is 200mg per 40L, or 5mg/l

    So for this, I'd add 2-3mg/l daily and then do a water change in 2-3 days, then one last dosing after.
    That should take care of it, do a water change etc at 5-6 days.

    Make sure to add KNO3 during+after the treatment and remove any activated carbon and clean filters etc.

    Regards,
    Tom Barr

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