GO CYL-20 Dual Stage Stainless Steel CO2 Regulator Build

**bettatail** · 10-09-2012, 01:29 AM

Originally Posted by Left C

Also there is something weird about Swagelok's "M" series of metering valves. Some will work for our use and some have too much flow. I never got a handle on this before entering retirement.

some of the old model M series are similar to L series, you might get a L series instead of M, and earlier models M series has bigger orifice plus a well used M series has heavy wear on the stem(stem damage), all throw the precision away.
get a nice condition M series or the couple latest models, they should work just fine.

**bettatail** · 10-09-2012, 01:58 AM

Originally Posted by oldpunk

Those parker h3s are on eBay for $25 right now. I just bought a couple. Comes right up if you search Parker h3.

get more, this valve is really rare and high precision at low flow due to its small orifice, so it performs better then the other valves with the same Cv.
and it is a $200+ retail.

I just bought one from the same seller too, that guy has at least 50 in stock, and it will last for a while before some other sellers list the same valve, but a higher price.
Now I got at least ten of them, and some H2L angel pattern model, :P

**SaltyNC** · 10-11-2012, 11:41 PM

I haven't been keeping up with my own thread.

Awesome news that the valve does have a good degree of precision. I finally ran down the source of the OEM high side pressure gauge and got that in, so I really need to wrap up my build.

Iani, it looks like you are also running a Parker solenoid. Is that right? How is that working for you? I actually have one sitting in a box that I thought about using. I spoke to Parker and they assured me that even though it gets hot, it is rated for continuous duty and would not be a problem. I'm still thinking of using something different, though. I would much prefer a low-watt model that doesn't generate a lot of heat.

John

**Gerryd** · 10-11-2012, 11:49 PM

Originally Posted by SaltyNC

I'm still thinking of using something different, though. I would much prefer a low-watt model that doesn't generate a lot of heat.

Hi,

I have been VERY happy with my Burkert solenoids. Expensive perhaps but worth the cost to not think about failures and such. Sure I have a spare but that is just smart

I overbuilt my two regs (1 built for me) purposefully and have not regretted it yet. The precise control and quality components give me a confidence level that I do not always feel with aquarium related products...Like light fixtures for example LOL

**iani** · 10-12-2012, 01:37 AM

That one is a peter Paul solenoid. No problems with them so far.

**oldpunk** · 10-12-2012, 02:13 AM

If you're looking for a less heat solenoid that doesn't fall into the mouse category, look for a DC burkert. The 24 volt dc 6011 I have runs a lot cooler than the 110v version. No one ever mentions that. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

**bettatail** · 10-12-2012, 12:19 PM

People, the parker hannifin H3L is more than what I thought,

$800+ retail

$200+ used, liquidator price.

**SaltyNC** · 10-15-2012, 10:38 PM

Originally Posted by oldpunk

If you're looking for a less heat solenoid that doesn't fall into the mouse category, look for a DC burkert. The 24 volt dc 6011 I have runs a lot cooler than the 110v version. No one ever mentions that. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

Thanks for the info, Oldpunk.

Originally Posted by bettatail

People, the parker hannifin H3L is more than what I thought,

$800+ retail

$200+ used, liquidator price.

FINALLY, I got a great bargain.