The noob guide to building your own regulator: part numbers, sources, and other tips!

[Matt F.]

For our global brothers and sisters, dava6711 did some preliminary research on European regulator components. He did a nice write-up. I'm going to have to re-read it, but I think he has some very useful info here:

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...egulator-Build

[David]

Matt,

Can you suggest an online source for the non-hardening thread sealer that you use?

I have woes about using teflon tape now, especially after seeing the inlet port of the high pressure gauge on Jiinx's rig lol.

[oldpunk]

Matt,

Can you suggest an online source for the non-hardening thread sealer that you use?

I have woes about using teflon tape now, especially after seeing the inlet port of the high pressure gauge on Jiinx's rig lol.

That's what happens when someone doesn't know what they're doing. Teflon tape on high pressure fittings is a 'must'. (unless you want to glue/epoxy your fittings)

When using tape, you must be careful not to get it on the ends of the the threads. The threads will cut it off and you can see what happens next. Also, when redoing fittings, you need to take great care in making sure you've done an good job cleaning out the ports/fittings.

Edit:

Matt, have you tried any of the Swagelok sealants?

[Matt F.]

I agree. Telfon tape on all high pressure joints and also on stainless steel components to protect the threads.
The ARP stuff I have used is actually an automotive brand that specializes in high quality and strength bolts, nuts, etc.
I think I got mine at summitracing.com back when I was into Mustangs in a big way.
LeftC uses Oatey brand, which is good. You can do a google search or check at your local ace hardware.

I've tried using ARP thread sealer with teflon on a high pressure port before, and I sprung a gas leak. Took the part off, cleaned off the threads with a toothbrush, and used teflon tape. Problem solved. This was on my brand new SGT500. That's the only reason why I suggest teflon tape on high pressure joints/ports.

Oateys or ARP teflon thread sealer is good for low pressure parts (basically the post body).

Haven't tried swagelok sealants. Still have most of that old tube of the ARP stuff.

That's what happens when someone doesn't know what they're doing. Teflon tape on high pressure fittings is a 'must'. (unless you want to glue/epoxy your fittings)

When using tape, you must be careful not to get it on the ends of the the threads. The threads will cut it off and you can see what happens next. Also, when redoing fittings, you need to take great care in making sure you've done an good job cleaning out the ports/fittings.

Edit:

Matt, have you tried any of the Swagelok sealants?

[Matt F.]

Here is where I got my ARP teflon thread sealer:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-100-9904/

Oateys is equally as good and probably cheaper, so check around before you order it from the link above. Remember you also have to pay rediculous UPS shipping if you buy from summitracing.com.

Help out a local mom and pops hardware store. They will have Oateys in stock.

remember, don't use this on high pressure joints or any joint that connects to the regulator body. Use teflon tape for high pressure stuff. And please use teflon tape on on ALL Stainless steel components to protect your threads--especially your stainless steel regulator 1/4" npt ports. In most cases, the port threads on stainless steel regulators are not repairable.

[David]

So, what's the best way of ensuring tape isn't cut by the threads and blown into any orifice to which it is applied?

Should one thread along the bottom of the fitting be free of teflon tape? I find that cutting teflon tape often leads to fibres coming apart with the end not laying flush on the threads.

I agree. Telfon tape on all high pressure joints and also on stainless steel components to protect the threads.
The ARP stuff I have used is actually an automotive brand that specializes in high quality and strength bolts, nuts, etc.
I think I got mine at summitracing.com back when I was into Mustangs in a big way.
LeftC uses Oatey brand, which is good. You can do a google search or check at your local ace hardware.

I've tried using ARP thread sealer with teflon on a high pressure port before, and I sprung a gas leak. Took the part off, cleaned off the threads with a toothbrush, and used teflon tape. Problem solved. This was on my brand new SGT500. That's the only reason why I suggest teflon tape on high pressure joints/ports.

Oateys or ARP teflon thread sealer is good for low pressure parts (basically the post body).

Haven't tried swagelok sealants. Still have most of that old tube of the ARP stuff.

[Matt F.]

The teflon tape should cover the threads of whatever component you are installing. The tape is what creates a leak free seal. Just make sure the teflon tape does not cover the face of the component or obstruct the orifice. I'll do a demo with photos and upload them later tonight.

So, what's the best way of ensuring tape isn't cut by the threads and blown into any orifice to which it is applied?

Should one thread along the bottom of the fitting be free of teflon tape? I find that cutting teflon tape often leads to fibres coming apart with the end not laying flush on the threads.

[Matt F.]

For those of you using Swagelok tube adapter (For 4mm/6mm ID/OD tubing), I just wanted to make something clear:

You will need to buy extra ferrules and tubing inserts for your tube adapter. For pictures on what I am talking about, please refer to this thread (which was also linked in the first post):

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...-tube-fittings


For those of you who know what I am talking about when I say "ferrules" and "inserts," here are the part numbers (from Post# 21 of the linked thread):

"Here is the response I got from swagelok's tech dept regarding the replacement part numbers for the front and back ferrule and nut for the tube adapters we are using.

You need to replace these parts everytime you change your tubing. As will all Swagelok Parts (SS) before the part number means stainless steel, and (B) means brass.

Here is the email (thanks Jason at Norcal Swagelok):

To: Matt,



The part #’s for the replacement ferrules are as follows:

Tubing Inserts for 4mm/6mm Tubing:

Stainless: SS-6M5-4M (Each)
Brass: B-6M5-4M (Each)



These are purchased individually

SS-6M2-1 (NUT)

SS-6M3-1 (FRONT FERRULE)

SS-6M4-1 (BACK FERRULE)



This is a set purchased in increments of 10

SS-6M0-SET (FRONT AND BACK FERRULES ON AN ARBOR)


OR


This is a set purchased in increments of 5

SS-6M0-NFSET (NUT, FRONT, AND BACK FERRULE ON AN ARBOR)

The best pricing is if you are going to buy the sets of 5 or 10 depending on what you need.

Hope this helps.

Thanks,
Jason

[David]

A question for you Matt (or anyone else with experience for that matter);

As far as the SS-2C2-1/3 (male threaded check valve) is concerned.....

How important is it to have a crack pressure of 1/3psig? This item appears to be a factory special from Swagelok and retails around $100 with a lead time of 2-3 weeks.

I'm able to get the SS-2C2-10 (10 psig crack pressure) for $63.00 in half the lead time.

Most diffusers take 25+ psig to start diffusing CO2 at any significant rate, could we get away with using the less-expensive 10psig model?

What if we were going to be connecting our regulator to a venturi outlet on a fractionating pump? Would the line pressure have to be drastically reduced to avoid gassing a tank's inhabitants (to the point of <10psig becoming necessary?)

[kevmo911]

I realize you're in Canada, so prices and availability will be different. But at swagelok.com, for other options, I'm seeing:

SS-2C2-1/3 $63.45 (1/8" MNPT, 1/3 psi crack)
SS-2C2-1 $54.12 (1/8" MNPT, 1 psi crack)
SS-4C-1/3 $48.69 (1/4" tube, 1/3 psi crack)
SS-4C-1 $48.69 (1/4" tube, 1 psi crack)

The brass version, B-2C2-1/3, is $23.48, and the B-2C2-1 is the same price.

For the 1/4" tube fittings, you might want a tube adapter - SS-4-TA-1(7)-2. Or you could just get inserts (SS-405-2) and run the valve inline.

Also check Ebay, and find a compatibility chart for specific fittings. Tylok, Duolok, Parker A-lok, Hoke Gyrolok, Hylok, Bi-lok, D-lok, Kor-lok, Dk-Lok... they all use the same type of tube fittings, so parts are interchangeable.