12G Long Iwagumi Build - A Reefers First Planted Attempt

[CalmSeasQuest]

My Journey From Reef to Planted...

I'm new to the Barr Report and to Planted tanks. In just a few days I've learned a tremendous amount (although I've got a long way to go on dosing.) I'd like to say Thank You for all the help as I work my way through the learning curve and apologize in advance for all the questions I'll undoubtedly have.

For the better part of the past twenty years, I've kept reef tanks, mostly SPS. As did many, I got my start in aquaria with freshwater tanks. In my case it was 55 gallon tanks with Oscars and Jack Dempsys in my bedroom some 40 years ago. While I was certainly aware of planted tanks, I never really paid much attention, that is until a couple of weeks ago when I stumbled across Takashi Amano's builds at the Sumido Aquarium in Tokyo. These were different. While I knew they were an incredible and complex undertaking, they instilled a calmness and serenity that I found irresistible. I truly love my reef tanks, but I HAD to try this.

I have a few Mr. Aqua 12 longs and stands on hand that I had purchased for other reef builds that I imagined would provide nice proportions for an Iwagumi -Here's a compendium of the progress so far,

• Tank - Mr. Aqua 12 Long (36" X 8" X 9")
• Stand - Mr. Aqua Elm stand stained ebony (just a hint of grain) and finished with Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane - Satin. All equipment will be hidden in the stand with only the clear drain, return, top off and CO2 lines visible.
• Lights - 23W TrueLumen Pro 8,000K, R2 LED Moonlights
• CO2 - Aquarium Plants Carbon Doser, ADA Pollen Glass Type 3
• Filtration - Eheim 2215 with Lily Pipe Outflow P-2 13mm and Lily Pipe Inflow MINI V-1 13mm, Cabochon Ruby check valve
• ATO - YTBD (I travel a lot so an ATO is needed)
• Substrate - Power Sand>Aqua Soil- NEW Amazonia Regular>Aqua Soil- NEW Amazonia - Powder
• Hardscape - Ryuo stones
• Flora - YTBD
• Fauna - YTBD
• Heater - Hydor ETH200 200W Inline (much larger than needed, but the smallest inline I could find.)
• Controller - Apex Aquacontroller managing two reef tanks in the room where this build will reside will provide temp probe (heater failsafe), pH probe (CO2 failsafe) and perhaps ORP if I can deduce some usage in freshwater IF I can figure out a way to hide them without having a sump. It will also manage lighting sunrise/sunset and Lunar cycles (probably functioning just as a nightlight as it doesn't seem lunar cycles are of much value in FW.)
• Test Kit - API
• Water - Well water, RO and 0TDS RO/DI available

Due to my lack of planted experience, I decided to largely use ADA recommended equipment, supplies and dosing regimes understanding that while it surely could be done less expensively - it might help me avoid "newby" mistakes, although I'm learning there may be far better ways to handle the Ferts...

101-507 Clear Parts Set 1
104-041 Aqua Soil- NEW Amazonia (9 liters)- Powder Type 2
104-012 Power Sand SPECIAL-M 6 liter 1
104-111 Bacter 100 1
105-021 Clear Super 1
104-113 Tourmaline BC 1
150-005 Penac P 200g (For Plants) 1
150-003 Penac W 200g (Aquarium) 1
102-1014 Pollen Glass Type 3 1
103-001 Green Brighty STEP 1 500ml 1
103-021 Brighty K 500ml 1
103-101 Green Bacter 50ml 1
103-104 ECA 50ml 1
103-103 Phyton-Git 50ml 1
103-102 Green Gain 50ml 1
106-002 Pincettes M 1
RyStone Ryuo Stone 30 (I won't need anywhere near 30lbs, but it will provide for more options in stone selection)
104-043 Aqua Soil- Africana (9 liters)- Powder Type 1
105-300 Clear Hose (3m) 13mm 1
102-512 Cabochon Ruby 1 (I've got lots of check valves, but this one is beautiful )
102-412 Lily Pipe Outflow P-2 13mm 1
102-433 Lily Pipe Inflow MINI V-1 13mm 1
102-701 Joint Glass 11mm 1
103-302 Drop Checker 1
102-011 NA Thermometer J-05CL (5mm) "Fahrenheit Ver." 1

Here are a couple shots of the Mr. Aqua Stand (not my photos)



While I like the minimalist style, the fit and finish are lacking. The stand requires a lot of filling and sanding prior to finishing to come anywhere near furniture grade. There are many finger joints visible hence my use of ebony stain....



The Mr. Aqua stand required so much finish work, I would have been far better off building one from scratch (not to mention the missing hardware.)

I only had a few moments, but I put the tank on the stand, grabbed a few quick photos and PAR measurements. I'm very pleased with the results. My guess at PAR was pretty close. If needed (largely depending on the aquascape) I can dim these to lower the PAR output. The quality of the light is better than I had expected.





I used an Apogee MQ-200...




These PAR measurements were taken in "open air". Based on my experience, they will differ little when measured with water in the tank. The fact that these lights use surface mounted emitters without any optics might provide different results through water - I'll remeasure once the tank is wet.

I Moved the the stand to the garage for a few days to allow it to "outgas" The fumes from the oil-based stain and Helmsman were still a bit much.

I don't like the way the black power cords are so noticeable on the TrueLumen Pro - especially since the fixture itself mostly disappears. I'm painting the the docking brackets white and ordered some vinyl stain to make all the exposed parts of the cords (above the black stand) white and hopefully less noticeable.

Decided on frosted glass (cling film) for the back of the tank

I've been thinking through the aquascaping (I guess it's "hardscape" in planted speak ) I might vary a bit from my interpretation of a traditional Iwagumi design. I really love many of the the Manzanita/Moss trees that I've seen created and would like to try one. I;d like to try and emulate a cliff-side, wind-swept Cypress. I still have to research the best mosses/plants to use in the creation of the tree.

I also stumbled across some petrified wood tailings that I think might have a couple interesting uses. I'm hoping my DFS-100 (diamond blade band saw used in Fragging corals) will make quick work of these allowing me to create custom sizes/shapes....



At some point I have to start thinking about a planting plan. Likely HC for most of the foreground. I want to maintain some negative space, so, from what I have learned thus far, the challenge will be balancing enough plant mass to avoid algae against - the minimalist design I have in my minds-eye. I'm also trying to come up with a balance between my water options (horrible, tannin-laced well water and 0 TDS RO/DI) with a livestock plan and how I might be able to include a couple shrimp species.

One other observation for anyone considering the the Mr Aqua stand - It has a very small interior with only ~7" usable depth. It will take some finagling just to get the 2215 and it's water lines in there. A few shots of the completed stand. The finish has a "tortured" look to it - Just image the resulting offspring if a black-lacquer baby grand piano mating with a wooden shipping pallet...

Yup, that pretty much describes it







The shelf has to be removed in order for the 2215 and 5# CO2 bottle to fit. While this is not a type of finish I would have normally chosen, somehow it seems appropriate for a Wabi-Sabi style cabinet. The shelf has to be removed in order for the 2215 and 5# CO2 bottle to fit. While this is not a type of finish I would have normally chosen, somehow it seems appropriate for a Wabi-Sabi style cabinet. The only somewhat disappointing part is that many hours or work went into creating this and it ends up looking like it was made from a left-over shipping crate

Thanks again for tagging along

[CalmSeasQuest]

I finished testing my water sources - Still trying to decide my options. I was hoping that between my well water, RO-only water (for drinking and ice cubes) and zero TDS RO/DI (Reefs) I would have something close to what I needed for this tank. In looking at the results, I'm not so sure...

Water Parameters - API Liquid Tests

------Well----Sink RO----RO/DI (aged)
pH --7.6-----6----------6.4
Gh --< 1---< 1----------0
KH --20------2----------0
TDS 310-----21---------0

I understand the RO and RO/DI pH reading are near useless, but if I'm interpreting this correctly, it looks like my best option will be to buffer the RO/DI? I was hoping I'd have an out-of-the-tap option

I've been trying to come up with a shrimp plan, and after reviewing the individual species needs and pairing down what I like - Initially I thought I would target 7.2~7.4pH, 4~5KH, 6~8GH. It appears that would that will provide for the greatest options in shrimp species BUT - It appears that most plants including my intended hc carpet need lower pH levels. Am I better off targeting lower pH and going with CRS like values?

I'm hoping others can provide some advice and offer up recommendations as to specific products or processes. I think I'll try posting this in the water parameters section to see if I can get someone with more experience to assist in coming up with a plan

I managed to get the sections of the lighting power cords that will be exposed painted white. It really helps blend them into the background. They will also be further hidden by running them along the backside of the TrueLumen and down the back corners of the tank - they should all but disappear. I also applied the etching to the back of the tank. I'm very pleased...







I was leaning toward not bothering to incorporate my Apex controller on this tank but - as I've got a lot to learn about freshwater parameters and want to create an environment conducive for shrimp - I've decided to bite the bullet and add the Apex. I'll need to order a long Aquabus cable (basically just a long male/male USB cable) another EB8 and an PM1. That will provide 8 controllable circuits, temp and pH monitoring. It will also provide the piece of mind of having a fail-safe for the heater.

Now I just have to figure out how to hide the probes. I can probably bury the temp probe, but the pH probe will probably be seen At least it's a pretty shade of blue

I thought some might enjoy this - Below is an excerpt of a post I wrote in one of my favored reefing forums. In it, I try to explain my first impressions (and how wrong they were) about planted and what I've learned thus far in the journey...


...I'll admit the planted learning curve is steeper than expected. I incorrectly had the expectation that for anyone successfully keeping Reefs, planted tanks would be relatively simple - Wrong. In marine we take a few things for granted namely water/nutrient levels. We have it relatively easy - just start with 0 TDS water and the salt mix and feeding the fish takes care of most else - maybe some 2-part or CA/Alk adjustments but they are easy to measure and control. In fact, we spend more time trying to remove nutrients form the water column. In planted, pH, Kh and Gh levels are often managed for specific species, as are various nutrients which cannot be easily measured/monitored and there are a thousand different ways to do so - EI, ADA, PPS, PPMD.. plus dozens of other dry and liquid dosing schemes AND the substrate is often another variable that has to be accounted for.

The use of technology in monitoring/controlling all of this appears to be less often used in FW/planted. This is perhaps due to the costs, but also that planted tanks can be very simple - heck often a heater is not even used. As most planted builds don't use sumps instead choosing canister filters finding a place for equipment (probes, heaters, ATO...) is another challenge. Lighting - for plants, 8,000K is about ideal, but not very much. Anything higher than about ~60PAR is considered high light. Perhaps the biggest dichotomy of all is CO2 - In reefing we work diligently to remove CO2 from the water column in an effort to support pH levels (degassing calcium reactor effluent, CO2 scrubbers...) In planted, you intentionally add TONS of CO2 as a carbon source for the plants and to suppress CO2 levels, bubbling the stuff directly into the water column, with many tanks running with pH levels of ~6.

Learning curve aside, there are some wonderful differences in planted and freshwater over marine tanks,

Cost - Virtually every facet of planted is significantly less expensive than maintaining a saltwater tank. Fish typcially range from $2-$10 with plants about the same. Many complain about the cost of ADA products (one of the preeminent brands in planted), but even those pale in comparison to the costs paid by reefers in virtually every way.

More relaxed and less Hype - The general feeling seems a bit more relaxed. No name games, "Limited edition" plants or the elevated pricing associated with it (I fully admit to being part of the name game having a Frag tank full of "gotta have" corals.) Because many get their start in FW, there are more kids involved in the hobby. It's refreshing seeing someone ponder or save up to purchase a $3 plant

We're not in Kansas anymore Toto....

I would wager that when many (perhaps most) reefers think of a planted tank - they picture an aquarium simply full of plants and perhaps a few guppies or tetras. I too largely had this image hearkening back to my youth and keeping freshwater fish.Here's an image that portrays the "style" that I'm striving to acheive...



So much of this is foreign to a long-time reefer, but I'll admit I'm enjoying every new challenge

[CalmSeasQuest]

I've been thinking about the hardscape - specifically the substrate design. With the regular and powder Aquasoil and Powersand I'm thinking it might be tough to rescape the million times it will take to finally come up with something I'm satisfied with so... I dug out one of the other 12 longs I have on hand and I set up a "sandbox" to play in. I used Arogonite left over from a reef build and some rocks on hand (still waiting for the ADA shipment) to begin practicing - getting a feel for the scale and how to handle the elevation changes.

I completed a mock-up that I think I like. Keep in mind, that nothing except the petrified wood are the actual items that will be used in the tank. I just used some misc rocks, Aragonite and a random piece of Manzanita to create the mock-up. I also believe I'll be able to create steeper gradients with the Aquasoil then shown in the mock-up.



I tried to emulate a wind or current sweeping right to left that would result in the tree being so contorted. This includes trying to guesstimate where sand would be eroded away and where eddy currents might pile the sand higher (windward side of stones.)





I'm struggling with the petrified wood - I can't decide if they should be more random, as if a natural deposit - or as shown, placed in a way emulating a wall. The individual pieces will be less evident as the Aquasoil will be deeper with a steeper cliff (I ran out of Aragonite.) The smaller pieces will likely be hidden entirely by plants.




I toyed with creating a sand pathway separating the 2 environs, but I think less may be more.

This is my first attempt at a planted tank - any and all feedback is really appreciated

[jerrybforl]

I'm no expert on the natural style, but to me it doesn't look natural on the right side. You should move some of those over to the left and create more depth. Here is a video from The Green Machine in England. James Findley scaped this and is quite amazing....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCMe-bu4-tk&feature=plcp

This should help give you some ideas...

[CalmSeasQuest]

Thanks JJ,

I think I've watched all the Green Machine videos at least a couple times - great stuff. I agree the right side isn't "'quite right". I'm stuck between trying to make it appear natural vs a man-made wall. The color contrast between the petrified wood and the Aragonite also make's it appear unnatural. I'm hoping that when I scape the actual tank with Aquasoil and can make the rise and drop larger, the rocks will largely disappear and will appear less "placed".

Thanks again for your comments, I appreciate the critique.

[CalmSeasQuest]

I'm really liking my "Sandbox" It lets me play (learn) without worrying about mixing substrates or being in a rush to get things planted. I think I'm getting closer. I shortened the petrified wall and moved the individual pieces closer together. Some of the bases (hidden) still need to be shaped a bit to allow them to "key" closer together. I think this is looking more natural and will look much better when mostly buried in Aquasoil and a larger drop-off...





I also added more emphasis to wind and erosion premised elevation changes. I'm excited to see what this will look like once carpeted. The balance on the left stones still isn't right, but it probably makes more sense to wait until the Ryuo stones arrive...



It's just as well the ADA shipment is running late - I bet many hours will be spent on adding-to and shaping the moss tree.

[ArnieArnie]

Nice sandbox. I agree with JJ, it is not natural. I would say ditch 1 of the 2 main features. Go with the rock layout or the windswept lay-out. If you stick with the wind layout than try to combine large rocks with small scattered around them, the tree behind or between it. You example pic also works that way.

[CalmSeasQuest]

Thanks ArnieArnie,

Perhaps I'm trying to do too much in this tank? While each feature is individually nice, when combined they detract from the other. I was hoping it would work due to the distance between them. I think it would be stunning with just the 3 stones as well - the challenge is, the petrified wood is quite beautiful and it's hard to leave it out and I really think I could create the illusion of a very stunning wind-swept moss tree.

I think I'm going to wait for the actual substrate and Ryuo stones to come in and get a sense of how they will change the balance. Worse case scenario - I can always save the tree and petrified wall concept for the next tank..

It's funny - I used to think that scaping reef tanks was hard - It's a "walk in the park" compared to this

[ShadowMac]

Hi Tom,

First of all, great build thread. I appreciate all the detail and descriptions you have provided. It is nice to read a reefer's perspective.

I have to agree with the conclusion that the left and right side detract from each other. You should really try to use only one type of stone. If you want to go with the tree every other piece of hardscape should be used to accent and emphasize it. If you move it to the back corner you push it out of a good focal region. I would recommend posting this thread at www.aquascapingworld.com, too. I like to go there for "design" help. The Barr Report and there are my two homes for aquascaping and planted tanks. The long low profile of the tank will do great with a strong hardscape feature and low growing carpeting plants. I think a single hardscape focal region would really emphasize a "vast" horizon or sky line for the tank. If you notice in your reference picture, there is only one large focal region and the other hardscape elements work to make it feel natural. Also that tree may appear to be towards the rear and right when actually its position is in the middle right third of the tank. It is also a fairly square image...yours is longer meaning the same region for your tank would be moved further to the left than where you have it now.

IMO a large stone feature will ruin the scale of the tree, unless it is done like a bonsai growing out of a mountain side...which would require a lot more rock work. So I would choose either large stones or the tree.

I look forward to seeing your progress. Good luck!

[jerrybforl]

If it was me, I would go with either the tree and work with it. Or I would go with the rocks. The tank is small and you don't want to try and do too much with it. I would ditch the tree and work with the rocks. You have nice pieces of rock, and you can do a nice scape with them.

You need to do some more research on Amano's tanks. He has great insight. I think you will find what you're looking for there.