Tom this tank is a Perfecto,its 17 years old and only 18in. wide and 27 in.deep 6 feet long. I thought the light would work out well live and learn. I talked to AH supply about an idea and would like your opinion.

Using 4 65 watt 6700K and 2 96 watt 10,000K in a home made hanging canopy with the lights on timers that would allow for controlled WPG.

This tank has 6 huge Amazon swords full of runners and 12 assorted Anubia's, Water Sprite and onion grass how well does the EI method do for the root feeders ? I use Seachem root tabs every 2 months for each Sword. I ask this question to see if its possible that I'm adding to much of the ferts. They may not be used fast enough even with the 40% W/C's that it is allowing for the algea to live

Most algae will continue to thrive in the tank once they get a good start, unless you remove it or kill it or both. Green spot algae seem to go away when you add more phosphate, but the others seem to me to just keep on going until you physically intervene. Excess fertilizer isn't involved in this phenomena. It seems that the secret to avoiding algae is not to let it start, or if it does, to quickly get it out of the tank. That has been, I think, why my victories in the Battle of the Algae have been very rare - as rare perhaps as my following the above advice.

I added a second XP4 and the sponge prefilters , a powerhead with the sponge base to help increase the circulation. I still use an airpump when the lights go out and the CO2 is on a timer. In this tank I have a large PH swing from 7.0 in the morning to 6.6 before the lights go out. The Watersprite has become a huge bush the Oniongrass and Anubia's have new leaves. The problem is the Amazon's. They have holes and turning yellow then brown and the current is able to tear them. The newer leaves look ok. I use Seachem root tabs. There is pearling on the Watersprite and streaming coming from the tears and holes of the Amazon's. I reference the pearling as I read it is a sign of health in a planted tank