Hi, I'm a new member with my first post. Current planted tank has been going for 5 years with OK growth and minor struggles with algae. Recent algae problems have motivated me to update my approach.

After reading this forum, I believe my priorities should be to

-replace current external CO2 reactor that can only get tank to 18 ppm

-replace RFUG/gravel with Flourite

-adopt new approach to fertilizing and nutrients

It appears as if I have 3 choices for CO2: Barr DIY internal, internal disc or sweetwater diffuser, or external reactor. Since my tank is a 55, I'm leaning towards an external diffuser.

Question: I read multiple references to the Barr external diffuser but can't find any pictures or description. Where can I find the details?

Question: For a purchased diffuser, I have read a few favorable comments about the Aqua Medic 1000 (over kill for a 55 or 75 but I assume isn't a problem-I don't want to struggle getting to 30ppm). Comments on the AM 1000 or recommendations for another purchased diffuser?

Question: Would the Sweetwater diffuser with a right angle flow over it easily provide 30ppm for a 55 gallon tank? for a 75 gallon tank? Would I continue to use my existing checkvalve/bubble counter/needle valve for the sweetwater diffuser?

Current setup:

55 gallon
110 watts of 6700 CF lighting
RFUG filter
Magnum 350 Cannister
Pressurized CO2/external reactor
Light fish and plant load
Add TMG and K2SO4
NO3 = 5
pH = 6.9
KH = 5

This forum is a great find for me and is already a great value for my subscription!

Thanks in advance for your comments.

Dick

[quote=Dick]Hi, I'm a new member with my first post. Current planted tank has been going for 5 years with OK growth and minor struggles with algae. Recent algae problems have motivated me to update my approach.

After reading this forum, I believe my priorities should be to

-replace current external CO2 reactor that can only get tank to 18 ppm

-replace RFUG/gravel with Flourite

-adopt new approach to fertilizing and nutrients


Hi Dick,

Can't really help with your questions, but it sounds like we have a nearly identical setup:

55 G
4 WPG CF
RUGF
Regular Gravel, although some plants are potted in Aquatic soil
CO2 around 20 PPM, although I could get higher.

My immediate desire is to supplement my gravel with Fluorite (in situ) and try to get rid of the pots to give me more room.

I run the CO2 through my Powerhead into the RUGF. Seems to create fine bubbles and the excess CO2 gets trapped below the gravel and released slowly. I know this, as I get CO2 farts when I do the gravel vac.

I also have some interest in the sweet water disks, but have no real need to push the CO2 into the stratosphere.

i currently have 2 55gal tanks setup.i run spraybar vertical as close to one end of tank as possible.water is directed along back of tank with a eheim diffuser at bottom,just in front of spraybar. at same end of tank i set a powerhead just below water level to get surface motion blowing in same direction. i'm getting good circulation that way.its not as a offensive look as i thought it would be.if thinking about flourite gravel ,when considering shipping i've found foster@smith to be the most economical.BUT if color does not matter i would try soilmaster select,sooo much less $$$.three years ago i broke the bank buying reg.flourite.its been a satisfactory product,but too expensive.i have quite a few tanks.one 55 has 2 allglass compacts on it because of a dark bedroom where it is located,and other 55 is in my fish room with just 1 allglass compact,lots of light in small room. i dose both tanks the same and get about the same results. sweetwater stones are the next diffuser i'm going to try.
regards,cornhusker

Cornhusker, thanks for your comments-appreciate description of your CO2 distribution within the tank. Think I will spend the $s and try regular flourite-will check prices at Foster and Smith.

What are sweetwater stones?

Go here:
CO2 bbs

I switched a few months back from an internal reactor for my 75 to a glass diffuser (like azoo) which produces micro bubbles. The results were dramatic in plant growth, health, and algae control. I plan to move to the sweetwater diffuser which I hope will give me smaller and more consistent bubbles (a mist). I use a horizontal canister filter return and a small power-head along the back to the tank for current, works well for me.

A bubble counter is convenient for visual confirmation of the amount of gas being injected, but I don't rely on it much any more. I just watch the fish and plants and occasionally test Ph KH.

A check valve is always a good thing.

A needle valve is what controls the amount of gas you are injecting, it is fairly essential in my opinion.

I'm currently running an AQ 1000 externally. If I split the CO2 line, with half going to the external reactor and half going to a sweetwater stone, would that let me enjoy the benefits of misting?

If you split the CO2 line I believe you are going to need a needle valve on each CO2 line after the split. There will be more back pressure on the stone line than there will be on the line to the Reactor 1000. CO2 will take the path of least resistance which will be to the Reactor 1000.

Hi all...

and Happy New Year greetings from Sydney Australia ...

Just when i thought that i was getting the hang of this planted tank business by getting my mind around Mr Barr's EI and dosing ferts etc along comes the concept of the CO2 mist ...

now i'm really confused ... but i don't think that i'm alone

here's where i'm a bit confused ...

1. do i still keep my external CO2 reactor or is it now unnecessary?

2. is it recommended to add the venturi loop as shown in the DIY gallery on this site to my existing external CO2 reactor? .... or do i just add one of the options shown in point 3. below? ....

3. in adding in the CO2 mist i gather that there are a number of options ... i can use either the ceramic disk type diffuser as shown here ... or the special sweetwater airstone like diffusers shown here ...or these point 4 ultra fine bubble diffusers shown here ... or this internal type reactor as shown in the DIY section of this website here ... which is the prefferred method? ..

hoping that someone can help with a little more clarification of this process please ....it would be great if someone who totally understands it could do a more detailed write up ....

with regards
aussietanker