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  • Left C's 40BR Journal

    Hi

    I just finished assembling the stand for my 40BR and I have two choices that I can use for pressurized CO2 diffusion. One is the 5/8" Up-Aqua Atomizer and the other is an Eheim adjustable speed needle wheel pump. Which would you suggest?

    It will be plumbed inline after an Eheim 2028 Pro II and a Hydro heater. I'll be using the Eheim optional grey plastic intake and spray bar (installation kits). I have a T5HO fixture that I'll only be using the two outside bulbs. One bulb is the Giesemann Midday 6000K and the other is their Aquaflora. I'll be using Amazonia for the substrate.

    Thanks,
    Left C

  • #2
    Hi,

    I think the atomizer will work well...I am a bit concerned that it is also after the hydor...

    As long as you can give 25 psi....

    Plus, the UP sticks to the outside glass and is out of the tank. No electricty either...

    What version of ADA?
    Thanks,

    Gerry.

    'When something's not right, it's wrong'. Bob Dylan

    Current 220 scape

    http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...3219-220-video

    Comment


    • #3
      It is the original Amazonia.

      I can give it 25 psi or more. I have several regulators to pick from.

      Edit: Why are you concerned that it is after the Hydor heater?

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Left C View Post
        Edit: Why are you concerned that it is after the Hydor heater?
        Just in case the eheim is underpowered or the diameter hose to the heater is LESS than the canister. Just want to ensure the atomizer gets enough flow although I admit to having no idea if this is really an issue or not.

        Just the way my mind works to think of these things...

        Originally posted by Left C View Post
        I can give it 25 psi or more. I have several regulators to pick from.
        That was pretty funny. Understatement of the year coming from you LOL

        Did you buy the ada original on purpose to avoid the new type? Or did you have it put aside already? Thanks
        Last edited by Gerryd; 09-17-2011, 02:44 PM.
        Thanks,

        Gerry.

        'When something's not right, it's wrong'. Bob Dylan

        Current 220 scape

        http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...3219-220-video

        Comment


        • #5
          When I was building my sump and everyone was explaining to me about "head" no pun intended. I thought well if everything is inline and your not adding extra tubing that loops around then I should be ok adding things inline. Makes sense to me. From my pump I have a ball valve, riser, quick disconnect, check valve, and my atomizer. It all runs one after the other without losing extra head. There is no slack in my line therefore no loss of flow.
          Thanks

          JJ

          Plants give me peace!

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Gerryd View Post
            Just in case the eheim is underpowered or the diameter hose to the heater is LESS than the canister. Just want to ensure the atomizer gets enough flow although I admit to having no idea if this is really an issue or not.

            Just the way my mind works to think of these things...
            I understand what you mean. It is OK. The Eheim 2028 uses 16mm or 5/8" ID tubing and everything fits that same size tubing.

            The pump output of 2028 is 277 gph which, just guessing, may be around an actual 200 gph from some of the lists that I've seen as in this canister spec list. The Eheim needle wheel pump has an adjustable rating from 211 gph up to well past what I would need. It could supply the added pull that I may need to get good flow. I could tweak it as needed. I do have a 5/8" UV that I could add, but I haven't decided if I will use it. If I use all this stuff and keep it under the stand, I should end up with some bends and most likely some right angle bends too. This is another reason where the pump may be helpful. It can help to pull this stuff along. I'll have to plum the pump last because we can't have a mist going through the Hydor inline heater or an UV sterilizer, I don't believe.

            When I ordered my Up-Aqua Atomizers, I ordered the 12/16mm and the 16mm/22mm versions. There is one for a 2217 and the other is for a 2028. I can't find the 16/22mm version that I need to go with the 5/8" tubing above. It is here somewhere. I found the 12/16mm version. This is OK because I have an Eheim 2217 that uses 1/2" or 12mm tubing. I have a 12mm Hydor heater too. The Eheim 2217 and 2028 have similar flow rates. I could use either, I suppose. I was planning to use the 2217 with the 37g. I do have an Eheim 2213 waiting if I need some extra circulation.

            It sounds crazy to have all this stuff, but I bought it a piece at a time over a few years. I started getting stuff for a 37g and then I started getting stuff for a 40BR. I have all this stuff before I have either tank set up and going. In this case, I can "rob Peter to pay Paul" so to speak with the filters and accessories since the aquarium volumes are almost the same.

            I need to get something going because my 29g grow out tank is crammed full of plants that I plan on using with these aquariums.

            Originally posted by Gerryd View Post
            That was pretty funny. Understatement of the year coming from you LOL
            I feel like "Suitcase Jake" because I have so many.

            Originally posted by Gerryd View Post
            Did you buy the ada original on purpose to avoid the new type? Or did you have it put aside already? Thanks
            I bought the Amazonia before the II version came out and I set it aside for this use. I also have three bags of Black Flourite, but I don't want to use it for this project.




            Below is the "Moss Arch 'Scape" that I was going to put in the 37g. It is just too narrow to do something like this with the large driftwood that I have that makes up the arch. I'm going to put it in the 40BR instead. The aquarium that Amano used for this 'scape is similar in size to a 40BR anyway. This came from the Jan-Mar 2011 issue of The Aquatic Gardener. Below is whole article, but the 'scape that I am trying to copy is on the first two images.





            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by jerrybforl View Post
              When I was building my sump and everyone was explaining to me about "head" no pun intended. I thought well if everything is inline and your not adding extra tubing that loops around then I should be ok adding things inline. Makes sense to me. From my pump I have a ball valve, riser, quick disconnect, check valve, and my atomizer. It all runs one after the other without losing extra head. There is no slack in my line therefore no loss of flow.
              Thanks JJ. I'll see if I can run everything in a straight line. If I add a probably un-needed UV, I may have some bends that I don't like. Then this is where some help from the needle wheel pump may come in.

              Comment


              • #8
                I got industrious and worked on the 40BR yesterday evening. I plumbed everything and I assembled a two stage regulator.

                The 40BR has:running inline

                The two stage regulator is/has:
                • a Victor VTS253A-320
                • a Burkert solenoid
                • an Ideal 52-1-12 needle valve
                • a Parker 1psig check valve between the needle valve and the bubble counter
                • a JBJ bubble counter
                • a Clippard inline check valve
                • Tygon lab tubing 1/8" x 1/4"

                I checked my regulator assembly for leaks and I didn't see any.

                I filled the 2028's media trays with the appropriate media and rinsed it. I'll let it dry overnight.

                I'll hook everything up after lunch today and check for leaks. Everything fits inside that "cheap" stand even the CO2 tank. The only bad thing about the stand is that it only has one door, but it is wide enough to allow access to the equipment. I can remove everything rather easily for maintenance, which is very important to me.

                I'm glad that I was rather industrious yesterday. If it doesn't leak, maybe I can plant it by evening. We'll see. I just hope that I don't have to deal with any leaks.

                I went in this direction because I couldn't find the 5/8" Up-Aqua Atomizer. If this doesn't work, I can go with either the 1/2" Up-Aqua Atomizer or rob the AM1000 reactor from the grow out tank.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'll be using Amazonia original. I have some substrate amenities that I am considering placing underneath the Amazonia on start-up. This is what I have:
                  • Activated Filter Carbon
                  • Leonardite
                  • Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss
                  • Osmocote Plus
                  • Dolomite
                  • Potash
                  • Ferrous Sulfate
                  • Seachem Flourish Tabs
                  • Wonder-Gro Root+ aquarium plant substrate tablets

                  Will any of these products help the Amazonia initially?

                  Thanks for your help. I don't remember reading about anyone adding anything extra other than some mulm from an established aquarium and maybe some carbon..

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Left C View Post
                    I filled the 2028's media trays with the appropriate media and rinsed it. I'll let it dry overnight.
                    Hi Left C,

                    This is very similar to a setup I'm considering. I've never used Canister filters before (still reading up on them), but I'm curious, what is "appropriate media" specifically?
                    Thanks!

                    Tim

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by tjbuege View Post
                      Hi Left C,

                      This is very similar to a setup I'm considering. I've never used Canister filters before (still reading up on them), but I'm curious, what is "appropriate media" specifically?
                      Hi tjbuege

                      I used the media that came with the 2028 plus a bag a zeolite to help with ammonia on startup. The 2028 has 3 media baskets. The bottom basket contains Eheim's Mech which is somewhat like macaroni for mechanical filtration topped by a blue coarse filter pad. The middle baskets only contain's Eheim's Substrat Pro. The top basket also contains Substrat Pro topped by a thin bag of Marineland's White Diamond Ammonia-Neutralizing Crystals which is zeolite followed by a white fine filter pad. No carbon pads were included with the kit. If one was included, I would of used it. The Substrat Pro is like Coco Puffs, but they are a creamy white color. This is used for biological filtration.

                      I've had this filter since 2005 or 2006 when there was a very good sale on them as a complete kit including media and the installation sets 1 and 2 for the intake and an output spraybar. I'm just now using it. I've been buying equipment every now and then when I had some extra money. I didn't think that this filter would become dated and replaced by something better.

                      I've read a few filtration threads concerning planted aquarium media about only using lava rock like you can get from Home Depot as the media. Some people use pads for mechanical filtration and some do not. The lava rock is broken into small and placed in the canister filter. This provides biological and some mechanical filtration. It is said to last a very long time between cleanings. This is only the jest of it, so to speak. There is much more to it than this very brief summary.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Left C View Post
                        I got industrious and worked on the 40BR yesterday evening. I plumbed everything and I assembled a two stage regulator.

                        The 40BR has:running inline

                        The two stage regulator is/has:
                        • a Victor VTS253A-320
                        • a Burkert solenoid
                        • an Ideal 52-1-12 needle valve
                        • a Parker 1psig check valve between the needle valve and the bubble counter
                        • a JBJ bubble counter
                        • a Clippard inline check valve
                        • Tygon lab tubing 1/8" x 1/4"

                        I checked my regulator assembly for leaks and I didn't see any.

                        I filled the 2028's media trays with the appropriate media and rinsed it. I'll let it dry overnight.

                        I'll hook everything up after lunch today and check for leaks. Everything fits inside that "cheap" stand even the CO2 tank. The only bad thing about the stand is that it only has one door, but it is wide enough to allow access to the equipment. I can remove everything rather easily for maintenance, which is very important to me.

                        I'm glad that I was rather industrious yesterday. If it doesn't leak, maybe I can plant it by evening. We'll see. I just hope that I don't have to deal with any leaks.

                        I went in this direction because I couldn't find the 5/8" Up-Aqua Atomizer. If this doesn't work, I can go with either the 1/2" Up-Aqua Atomizer or rob the AM1000 reactor from the grow out tank.
                        My 40BR is awesome. That Eheim pump is the ticket! I have terrific flow. I put a piece of intake filter foam that is about the size of my fist in the aquarium that is completely full with water. It makes a clockwise lap around the tank every 30 seconds.

                        I'm using Eheim's optional clear grey installation kits. I put the spraybar kit on the left wall. I added an extra section so that the spraybar runs across the whole left side. The intake kit is also on the left side. The spraybar is made of 4 sections that have 4 holes in each section. This arrangement allows a nice circular rotation. This should give me good distribution, but we'll see when I add the driftwood.

                        My CO2 is plumbed into the adjustable flow Eheim needle wheel. I don't get a lot of mist or anything like that. I just see a few errant bubbles coming out. This is with the bubble rate running so fast that I can't count them. I am really impressed with it. There is no noise either. I have the pump running about 75% of wide open. Its rated flow range is from 211 to 713 gph. I'll turn down the bubble rate after it is planted.

                        This is the order that the water flow goes through: intake, 2028 filter, UV sterilizer placed in a horizontal position, Hydor heater in a vertical position, needle wheel pump and spraybar

                        With all the bends, I'm sure that the flow would be very weak without the benefit of the Eheim needle wheel pump to help push the water through. I used a lot of Eheim's 5/8" tubing, maybe 16 feet. The flow crosses back and forth from end to end with gentle bends. There is only one 90 bend which is made using a Coralife tubing elbow.

                        I have the regulator set on 10 psi and this is fine. I could probably go down to 5 psi and still be OK. I'd just have to readjust my bubble count.

                        I'm going to let it run all night with just water in the aquarium. Tomorrow, I'll drain it and plant it.

                        I have a 4x39w T5HO fixture and I'm planning on using just the two outside bulbs. I have Giesemann 6000K's and Aquafloras plus the stock 10,000K bulbs. I may play around with it and see if I like a 50/50 mix of 6000K and Aquaflora. I'll put the Aquaflora in the back to start with. If I don't like it, I could use a 6000K and a 10,000K.

                        All in all, I am very happy with my collection of parts used for this 40BR. The single door stand is a tiny PITA, but I'll have to live with it. I used enough tubing so that I can easily pull everything out from inside the stand.
                        Last edited by Left C; 09-21-2011, 08:04 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Thanks, Left C, for the details on media used in your Ehiem. It's helps me understand the setup better. I've been reading as much as I can find, and trying to soak it all in.
                          Thanks!

                          Tim

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Left C,

                            Can you post some pictures? As the saying goes... they can be worth 1,000 words.
                            Thanks!

                            Tim

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Can do Tim. I want to plant it now. I'll get some pictures either later or in a few days.

                              Comment

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