I'm using a magnet to hold the valve open. I'll have to manually control the thing till I figure something out.Gerryd;51168 said:what are you doing now?
68*F max ambient temp for continuous duty?! That's no good. Tells me the coils can't deal with heat well at all or aren't really meant to be used in continuous duty they way we need. Just based on my experience, I gotta give these valves a thumbs down for us.As is the custom at such sales, most of the box labels were removed prior to the time we received the shipment. Thus, we never found a comprehensive label that we could photograph, and we do not know the exact "Parker" part number. Somebody missed enough label shreds, however, so that we can tell you the maximum ambient operating temperature for continuous duty is 68F, maximum fluid temperature is 180F, response time is 8 to 16 milliseconds, cycles per minute is 600, body is 303 Stainless, and the coil encapsulant material is nylon. The seals are Buna-N (aka Nitrile and NBR) which would make them compatible with air, inert gases, water, alcohols, and petroleum-based oils and fuels.
I forgot to mention this. But have you tried contacting the seller, sherrodsurplus? He made good on someone's that went bad on TPT.Oreo;51152 said:Best I can figure is something in the coil crapped out. I bought two, when the first one died I just swapped the coil. That worked again for a while and now that one is dead too. Crap.
Oreo;51492 said:I haven't bought a burkert yet. I also haven't contacted SherrodSurplus yet either. I probably should on both accounts but I've been kinda busy around the house lately and with family obligations. Haven't had a chance to sort this one out yet. I did buy a replacement coil with a proper power cord (not a heat-shrink home-brew job) on ebay. I'm hoping that works. Truth is, I completely disassembled one of the faulty valves just to see the internal build quality. The "pressure vessle", aka the stainless valve is constructed beautifully. GLA's valves have nothing on the Parkers. We're just buying the wrong coil.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Inline = attached with brass fittings. The solenoid valve & any regulator I've seen both have female NPT ports that will require a brass nipple to plumb the two together. Besides that, the valve isn't the part that gets hot. The coil is the problem and the stainless valve itself isn't connected to the coil in a way that allows any kind of efficient heat transfer.hbosman;51577 said:Oreo,
Are your solenoids attached to the regulator via brass fittings or are you running them inline? The reason I ask is I noticed that when I was running a solenoid inline, it was much hotter than when I attached it to the regulator via fittings. I guess the regulator acts like a big heat sink. My Parker solenoid is still working very well.
Oreo;51720 said:I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Inline = attached with brass fittings. The solenoid valve & any regulator I've seen both have female NPT ports that will require a brass nipple to plumb the two together. Besides that, the valve isn't the part that gets hot. The coil is the problem and the stainless valve itself isn't connected to the coil in a way that allows any kind of efficient heat transfer.
Anyway, I got back from Canada last night. The 10w coil I ordered was waiting on the door step. It's HUGE by comparison to our little parker solenoid valves. So the 10w coils are definitely a no-go. S&KGray is on to something though so I'll have to go back and look at the catalog again. I'll spend some time on it tonight & see what I come up with.
OH, OK now I understand. Still, if your coil is getting so hot that brass plumbing is needed as a heat-sink then the coil isn't rated properly for the task. Neither of my coils got more then luke-warm before they died. Both had been on for a few hours.hbosman;51723 said:What I meant by inline is using 2 brass hose barbs attaching it to the tubing vs. a brass nipple attaching it to the regulator. If it is attached to the regulator, it does make a difference on how hot the solenoid gets. I tried a clippard inline and it got so hot that the tubing was getting really soft. When I attached it to the regulator with a brass nipple, the valve part stayed much cooler. But you answered my question. I was just trying to figure out why you had such almost immediate failures since my Parker with 6 watt coil has been great for 2 months so far. The coil on the Parker is energized 9 hours a day.
Inexpensive solenoid valves aren't hard to find on ebay. Try Clippard and Burkert brand also. The only strict requirement we have is that they be "normally closed". Some will have different size pipe threads but that's no big deal, and some will have other electrical requirements- 12vdc, 24vdc, also no big deal if you have a wall-wart transformer you're willing to sacrifice. The nicest thing about these parker valves we've been buying is that they are so small. Many of the other solenoid valves are 2-3 times the size. Hence, I really just want to find a replacement coil if I can.fischman;51732 said:Just to add, my brand new parker solenoid seems to be having some issues. This being my first pressurized setup, I'm not sure if they are typical. About 50% of the time when the timer clicks to on the solenoid emits a buzzing noise that is very annoying. The only way to get rid of it is to turn it off and back on. Sometimes it takes a time or two before it'll switch on with no noise. Not sure if this is due to the weak coil or what not. Are they any other reasonably priced options? I really would like to not spend another $40-50 if I can avoid it. Thanks!
Josh