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		<title>Aquarium Plants - Barr Report - Blogs - Biollante</title>
		<link>http://www.barrreport.com/blog.php/20294-Biollante</link>
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			<title>Aquarium Plants - Barr Report - Blogs - Biollante</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/blog.php/20294-Biollante</link>
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			<title>Bit of an Impasse</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/56-Bit-of-an-Impasse</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 13 Mar 2012 23:28:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
  
I am at a bit of an impasse; I really cannot find a reasonable way of efficiently chelating individual metals with “household” items. 
  
So...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore"><font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">Hi,<br />
 <br />
I am at a bit of an impasse; I really cannot find a reasonable way of efficiently chelating individual metals with “household” items.<br />
 <br />
So far the recipes seem to be working well, they really are not for “dry dosing,” but work well mixed in a slightly acidic solution (&lt;pH 5), either as a stock solution or as the “dry dose” amount and mixing (distilled water is best) it prior to dosing.<br />
A little vinegar (acetic acid), lemon juice, Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) anything to pull the pH down to 5 or so.<br />
 <br />
Also, nothing really beats ball-milling (same as you use for making gunpowder</span></font>:eek:<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">) for mixing the recipes.<br />
 <br />
Biollante<br />
</span></font></blockquote>

]]></content:encoded>
			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/56-Bit-of-an-Impasse</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[Idealized Recipe with Ferrous Gluconate, C12H24FeO14&#9679;2 H2O]]></title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/53-Idealized-Recipe-with-Ferrous-Gluconate-C12H24FeO14&#9679;2-H2O</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 11 Feb 2012 02:26:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi 
 
 
I think you can easily substitute Ferrous Gluconate, C12H24FeO14&#9679;2 H2O. 
 
In ferrous gluconate, properly Iron (II) gluconate, the gluconate,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">   <br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">Hi<br />
</span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">I think you can easily substitute Ferrous Gluconate, C<sub>12</sub>H<sub>24</sub>FeO<sub>14</sub>&#9679;2 H<sub>2</sub>O.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">In ferrous gluconate, properly Iron (II) gluconate, the gluconate, which is Gluconic acid, C<sub>6</sub>H<sub>12</sub>O<sub>7</sub> (the sugar in honey and fruits), is the chelate. <br />
</span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">The problem is that gluconate; a much weaker chelate then EDTA.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">I have not tried this and I am do not smart enough to know whether the excess EDTA picks up any of the iron from the weaker gluconate.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">I suspect this formulation is definitely better for lower pH and daily dosing.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms"><b>Idealized form with Ferrous Gluconate:</b> </span></font> <br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: century gothic"><font size="2">Note: The copper sulfate, Manganese (II) sulfate, and Zinc oxide need to be ground together with the EDTA first.</font></span><br />
<br />
<font size="2"><span style="font-family: book antiqua">EDTA, Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid-------------------------------------------159.3-grams<br />
MgSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7H<sub>2</sub>O, Magnesium sulfate hepta-hydrate, Epsom salt, -------------152-grams <br />
C<sub>12</sub>H<sub>24</sub>FeO<sub>14</sub>&#9679;2 H<sub>2</sub>O, Iron (II) gluconate ---------------------------------------------610-grams<br />
MnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679; H<sub>2</sub>O, Manganese (II) sulfate monohydrate ----------------------------- 62-grams<br />
ZnO, Zinc oxide----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5-grams<br />
Na<sub>2</sub>B<sub>8</sub>O<sub>13</sub> &#9679; 4H<sub>2</sub>O, Solubor --------------------------------------------------------------- 6.7-grams<br />
CuSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5H<sub>2</sub>O, Copper sulfate penta-hydrate (blue)--------------------------- ----- 4-grams<br />
H<sub>2</sub>MoO<sub>4</sub>, Molybdic acid or dihydroxidodioxidomolybdenum--------------------- 1-gram<br />
<br />
<br />
16% EDTA<br />
8.5% sulfate (2.9% Sulfur)<br />
7% Iron (chelated)<br />
2%Mangenese (chelated)<br />
1.5% Magnesium<br />
1.4% Boron<br />
.75% Sodium<br />
.4% Zinc (chelated)<br />
.1% Copper (chelated)<br />
.06% Molybdenum</span></font><br />
<br />
   <br />
  Biollante</blockquote>

]]></content:encoded>
			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true"><![CDATA[http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/53-Idealized-Recipe-with-Ferrous-Gluconate-C12H24FeO14&#9679;2-H2O]]></guid>
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			<title>Idealized recipe meets the Tom Barr recommended 5:1 Fe: B</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/52-Idealized-recipe-meets-the-Tom-Barr-recommended-5-1-Fe-B</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 10 Feb 2012 02:13:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
   
 
  In this “idealized” iteration, I am using readily available Fe3O4, Iron (II, III) oxide...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Hi,<br />
  <br />
<br />
  <font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">In this “idealized” iteration, I am using readily available <a href="http://www.ecrater.com/p/10348010/5-pounds-black-iron-oxide-fe3o4" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Fe<sub>3</sub>O<sub>4</sub>, Iron (II, III) oxide</a> for the iron.<br />
</span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">Since Plantex Nutritrace CSM has 7.0%, Iron and the Tom Barr recommended 5:1 Fe: B requires 1.4% Boron. </span></font><br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">&quot;Plantex Nutritrace CSM™,&quot; “CSM” stands for <b>C</b>helated <b>S</b>econdary <b>M</b>icronutrient comes without Boron, hence the “+B” is added by the remarketer, popular aquarium plant fertilizer marketers mix 1 part Solubor to 25 parts Plantex Nutritrace CSM™. Since dilutes the product by 3.8% reducing the iron to 6.73% while adding 0.8% Boron.</span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">This idealized recipe meets the Tom Barr recommended 5:1 Fe: B. While maintaining a full 7% iron.</span></font><br />
   <br />
  <font size="2"><span style="font-family: book antiqua"><b>Idealized form:</b><br />
</span></font><br />
<font size="2"><span style="font-family: book antiqua">Note: 150-grams of EDTA are required (being safe) the rest 603.6-grams in this case cornstarch, C<sub>12</sub>H<sub>22</sub>O<sub>11</sub> can be substituted. Cornstarch adds a bit more organic material than EDTA but in the amounts we use for micronutrients, it is negligible.<br />
<br />
EDTA, Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid-------------------------------------------753.6-grams<br />
MgSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7H<sub>2</sub>O, Magnesium sulfate hepta-hydrate, Epsom salt, -------------152-grams <br />
Fe<sub>3</sub>O<sub>4</sub>, Iron (II, III) oxide -----------------------------------------------------------------  9.7-grams<br />
MnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679; H<sub>2</sub>O, Manganese (II) sulfate monohydrate ----------------------------- 62-grams<br />
ZnO, Zinc oxide-----------------------------------------------------------------------------  5-grams<br />
Na<sub>2</sub>B<sub>8</sub>O<sub>13</sub> &#9679; 4H<sub>2</sub>O, Solubor --------------------------------------------------------------- 6.7-grams<br />
CuSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5H<sub>2</sub>O, Copper sulfate penta-hydrate (blue)---------------------------  ----- 4-grams<br />
H<sub>2</sub>MoO<sub>4</sub>, Molybdic acid or dihydroxidodioxidomolybdenum--------------------- 1-gram<br />
<br />
<br />
75.4% EDTA<br />
8.5% sulfate (2.9% Sulfur)<br />
7% Iron (chelated)<br />
2%Mangenese (chelated)<br />
1.5% Magnesium<br />
1.4% Boron<br />
.75% Sodium<br />
.4% Zinc (chelated)<br />
.1% Copper (chelated)<br />
.06% Molybdenum</span></font><br />
<br />
  <font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms"> <br />
</span></font><br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">Biollante</span></font></blockquote>

]]></content:encoded>
			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/52-Idealized-recipe-meets-the-Tom-Barr-recommended-5-1-Fe-B</guid>
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			<title>Probably the Closest to Real, Live CSM+B</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/51-Probably-the-Closest-to-Real-Live-CSM-B</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 22:37:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
 
  This is probably the closest to real, live CSM+B. 
    
  Zinc oxide, ZnO is readily available...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Hi,<br />
<br />
  <font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">This is probably the closest to real, live CSM+B.<br />
   <br />
  Zinc oxide, ZnO is readily <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Oxide-Powder-Quality-Resealable/dp/B003IGOL8U" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">available</a> in many places and for those concerned adds no sulfate.<br />
<br />
   <br />
  Solubor, Na<sub>2</sub>B<sub>8</sub>O<sub>13</sub> &#9679; 4H<sub>2</sub>O is a readily <a href="http://www.jrjohnson.com/product.php?productid=16417" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">available</a> substitute for Borax and is what many add to “CSM” to get the “+B.” Solubor also adds half the Sodium of Borax.    </span></font><br />
   <br />
  <font size="2"><span style="font-family: book antiqua"><b>Generic form w/</b> <b>Mn (II) SO<sub>4</sub>&#9679; H<sub>2</sub>O</b><b>, ZnO</b>, <b>Na<sub>2</sub>B<sub>8</sub>O<sub>13</sub> &#9679; 4H<sub>2</sub>O</b><br />
EDTA, Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid-------------------------------------------634-grams<br />
MgSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7H<sub>2</sub>O, Magnesium sulfate hepta-hydrate, Epsom salt, ----------------152-grams <br />
Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>&#9679;3 H<sub>2</sub>O, Iron (III) oxide tri-hydrate, Rust<sup>3</sup>--------------------------------132-grams<br />
MnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679; H<sub>2</sub>O, Manganese (II) sulfate monohydrate ----------------------------- 62-grams<br />
ZnO, Zinc oxide----------------------------------------------------------------------- 5-grams<br />
Na<sub>2</sub>B<sub>8</sub>O<sub>13</sub> &#9679; 4H<sub>2</sub>O, Solubor --------------------------------------------------------- 4-grams<br />
CuSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5H<sub>2</sub>O, Copper sulfate penta-hydrate (blue<sup>4</sup>)------------------------------- 4-grams<br />
H<sub>2</sub>MoO<sub>4</sub>, Molybdic acid or dihydroxidodioxidomolybdenum--------------------- 1-gram<br />
<br />
<br />
63.4% EDTA<br />
8.5% sulfate (2.9% Sulfur)<br />
7% Iron (chelated)<br />
2%Mangenese (chelated)<br />
1.5% Magnesium<br />
.8% Boron<br />
.44% Sodium<br />
.4% Zinc (chelated)<br />
.1% Copper (chelated)<br />
.06% Molybdenum</span></font><br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms"><br />
  Biollante</span></font></blockquote>

]]></content:encoded>
			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/51-Probably-the-Closest-to-Real-Live-CSM-B</guid>
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			<title>Mn (II) SO4 Monohydrate Rather Than Penta-hydrate</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/50-Mn-(II)-SO4-Monohydrate-Rather-Than-Penta-hydrate</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 09 Feb 2012 19:17:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Hans, 
 
    
  I used MnSO4&#9679;5 H2O, Manganese sulfate penta-hydrate in the formula; I have been told that the monohydrate, MnSO4&#9679; H2O is the most...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Hi Hans,<br />
<br />
   <br />
  I used MnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5 H<sub>2</sub>O, Manganese sulfate penta-hydrate in the formula; I have been told that the monohydrate, MnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679; H<sub>2</sub>O is the most common form available for fertilizers. If your Manganese (II) sulfate is “pinkish,” it is the monohydrate.<br />
<br />
    <font size="2"><span style="font-family: book antiqua"><b>Generic form w/</b> <b>MnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679; H<sub>2</sub>O </b>,<br />
EDTA, Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid-------------------------------------------626-grams<br />
MgSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7H<sub>2</sub>O, Magnesium sulfate hepta-hydrate, Epsom salt, ------------152-grams <br />
Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>&#9679;3 H<sub>2</sub>O, Iron (III) oxide tri-hydrate, Rust<sup>3</sup>----------------------------------132-grams<br />
MnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679; H<sub>2</sub>O, Manganese (II) sulfate monohydrate --------------------------- 62-grams<br />
ZnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7 H<sub>2</sub>O, Zinc sulfate hepta-hydrate----------------------------------------- 18-grams<br />
H<sub>3</sub>BO<sub>3</sub>, Boric acid-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5-grams<br />
CuSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5H<sub>2</sub>O, Copper sulfate penta-hydrate (blue<sup>4</sup>)------------------------------ 4-grams<br />
H<sub>2</sub>MoO<sub>4</sub>, Molybdic acid or dihydroxidodioxidomolybdenum-------------------  1-gram<br />
<br />
<br />
62.6% EDTA<br />
9.1% sulfate (3.4% Sulfur)<br />
7% Iron (chelated)<br />
2%Mangenese <br />
1.5% Magnesium<br />
.87% Boron<br />
.41% Zinc<br />
.1% Copper<br />
.06% Molybdenum</span></font><br />
<br />
   <font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">Biollante</span></font></blockquote>

]]></content:encoded>
			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/50-Mn-(II)-SO4-Monohydrate-Rather-Than-Penta-hydrate</guid>
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			<title>Trace Nutrients</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/49-Trace-Nutrients</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Feb 2012 17:42:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
 
A do-it-yourself version of CSM+B, none of the measurements are terribly critical, the Copper and Boron are the most dangerous. The EDTA...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore"><font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">Hi,</span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">A do-it-yourself version of CSM+B, none of the measurements are terribly critical, the Copper and Boron are the most dangerous. The EDTA serves as both a chelating agent and filler, making up 59.9% of the product (64% of CSM+B). <br />
<br />
I have not used this myself and am just beginning tests, so obviously use at your own risk. I have done this with a couple of variations; I will get into one later, specific to Hans’ situation.<sup>1</sup><br />
<br />
<br />
Since I started with the ingredients Hans has available<sup>2</sup> that are what I used. Since the hydrates were not specified, I went with the most common hydrates.<br />
<br />
For those concerned with sulfate, this recipe contains 10.2% sulfates, and given the quantities added to the aquarium, I seriously doubt any adverse effect. Of course, it is also providing 6.86% plant-friendly Sulfur.<br />
<br />
Thorough mixing is the main “trick,” all full of good intentions I started with mortar and pestle and ended with TheLoudCreatureWhatSharesMySpace’s spice grinder and power mixer…<br />
<br />
This recipe results in one kilogram of product and allows for weighing in 1-gram increments a scale that reads to 0.1-gram is sufficient, as long as care is taken with the Copper and Boron, there really is not any great danger. Obviously, the recipe can be scaled (up or) down.<br />
<br />
<b>I found in a couple of runs that grinding, mixing and homogenizing the iron, Manganese, Copper and Zinc with the EDTA first, then adding (and grinding) the other ingredients seemed to work best.</b><br />
<br />
<b>Generic form</b>,<br />
<font size="2"><span style="font-family: book antiqua">EDTA, Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid-------------------------------------------599-grams<br />
MgSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7H<sub>2</sub>O, Magnesium sulfate hepta-hydrate, Epsom salt, ------------152-grams <br />
Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>&#9679;3 H<sub>2</sub>O, Iron (III) oxide tri-hydrate, Rust<sup>3</sup>-----------------------------------132-grams<br />
MnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5 H<sub>2</sub>O, Manganese sulfate penta-hydrate ----------------------------- 89-grams<br />
ZnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7 H<sub>2</sub>O, Zinc sulfate hepta-hydrate----------------------------------------- 18-grams<br />
H<sub>3</sub>BO<sub>3</sub>, Boric acid-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5-grams<br />
CuSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5H<sub>2</sub>O, Copper sulfate penta-hydrate (blue<sup>4</sup>)------------------------------ 4-grams<br />
H<sub>2</sub>MoO<sub>4</sub>, Molybdic acid or dihydroxidodioxidomolybdenum------------------ 1-gram<br />
<br />
<br />
59.9% EDTA<br />
10.2% sulfate (3.4% Sulfur)<br />
7% Iron (chelated)<br />
2%Mangenese <br />
1.5% Magnesium<br />
.87% Boron<br />
.41% Zinc<br />
.1% Copper<br />
.06% Molybdenum</span></font><br />
</span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">In real life Iron sulfate is easier to come by at the local garden shop. <br />
<br />
<br />
Iron sulfate is usually available as the hepta-hydrate, FeSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7 H<sub>2</sub>O, it will appear green(ish). Heat it to 90&#8304; C and it will eventually turn white(ish) to colorless and becoming the monohydrate.<br />
<br />
<b>Iron (II) sulfate hepta-hydrate version, a lot less EDTA.</b><br />
<font size="2"><span style="font-family: book antiqua">EDTA, Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid-------------------------------------------382-grams<br />
MgSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7H<sub>2</sub>O, Magnesium sulfate hepta-hydrate, Epsom salt, ------------152-grams <br />
FeSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7 H<sub>2</sub>O, Iron (II) sulfate hepta-hydrate, -----------------------------------349-grams<br />
MnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5 H<sub>2</sub>O, Manganese sulfate penta-hydrate ----------------------------- 89-grams<br />
ZnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7 H<sub>2</sub>O, Zinc sulfate hepta-hydrate----------------------------------------- 18-grams<br />
H<sub>3</sub>BO<sub>3</sub>, Boric acid-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5-grams<br />
CuSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5H<sub>2</sub>O, Copper sulfate penta-hydrate (blue<sup>4</sup>)------------------------------ 4-grams<br />
H<sub>2</sub>MoO<sub>4</sub>, Molybdic acid or dihydroxidodioxidomolybdenum------------------ 1-gram<br />
<br />
<br />
38.2% EDTA<br />
22.3% sulfate (7.4% Sulfur)<br />
7% Iron (chelated)<br />
2%Mangenese <br />
1.5% Magnesium<br />
.87% Boron<br />
.41% Zinc<br />
.1% Copper<br />
.06% Molybdenum</span></font></span></font><br />
<br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms">Borax (Na<sub>2</sub>B<sub>4</sub>O<sub>7</sub>•10H<sub>2</sub>O) may be more accessible and cheaper than Boric acid, though it does add a bit of Sodium. <br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Borax and Iron (II) sulfate hepta-hydrate version, a lot less EDTA.</b><br />
<font size="2"><span style="font-family: book antiqua">EDTA, Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid-------------------------------------------380-grams<br />
MgSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7H<sub>2</sub>O, Magnesium sulfate hepta-hydrate, Epsom salt, ------------152-grams <br />
FeSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7 H<sub>2</sub>O, Iron (II) sulfate hepta-hydrate, -----------------------------------349-grams<br />
MnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5 H<sub>2</sub>O, Manganese sulfate penta-hydrate ----------------------------- 89-grams<br />
ZnSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;7 H<sub>2</sub>O, Zinc sulfate hepta-hydrate----------------------------------------- 18-grams<br />
Na<sub>2</sub>B<sub>4</sub>O<sub>7</sub>•10H<sub>2</sub>O, Borax------------------------------------------------------------------ 7-grams<br />
CuSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5H<sub>2</sub>O, Copper sulfate penta-hydrate (blue<sup>4</sup>)------------------------------ 4-grams<br />
H<sub>2</sub>MoO<sub>4</sub>, Molybdic acid or dihydroxidodioxidomolybdenum------------------ 1-gram<br />
<br />
<br />
38% EDTA<br />
22.3% sulfate (7.4% Sulfur)<br />
7% Iron (chelated)<br />
2%Mangenese <br />
1.5% Magnesium<br />
.84% Sodium<br />
.79% Boron<br />
.41% Zinc<br />
.1% Copper<br />
.06% Molybdenum</span></font></span></font><br />
<br />
<font size="1"><span style="font-family: comic sans ms"><br />
Biollante<br />
</span></font><span style="font-family: comic sans ms"><span style="font-family: arial narrow"><sup>1</sup>Hans, posting as <a href="http://www.barrreport.com/member.php/31375-wasserman" target="_blank"><b>wasserman</b></a> asked in his thread <b><a href="http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9676-Micro-Fertilizer-DIY-Formula" target="_blank">Micro Fertilizer DIY Formula</a></b>.</span></span>:)<br />
<span style="font-family: comic sans ms"><span style="font-family: arial narrow"> <sup>2</sup>Is it possible to mix the below dry solution to create the DIY version of micro fertz.<br />
- B ==&gt; from H3BO3<br />
- Cu ==&gt; from CuSO4<br />
- Mn ==&gt; from MnSO4<br />
- Mo ==&gt; from H2MoO4<br />
- Zn ==&gt; from ZnSO4<br />
etc<br />
<sup>3</sup>Rust is included since it is universally available and generally beyond regulatory control. The precise composition can vary, but is a viable alternative. <br />
<sup>4</sup>If it is CuSO<sub>4</sub> and it is blue, it is the penta-hydrate, CuSO<sub>4</sub>&#9679;5H<sub>2</sub>O and easily produced by individuals.</span></span><br />
<br />
</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/49-Trace-Nutrients</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>No Intention to Offend, I Will Delete Offending Useless Posts</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/46-No-Intention-to-Offend-I-Will-Delete-Offending-Useless-Posts</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 31 Jan 2012 06:39:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi All, 
    
  I will blog this stuff here in case anyone is interested. 
  There is no intention to offend, I am a real gasbag, I thought it...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Hi All,<br />
   <br />
  I will blog this stuff here in case anyone is interested.<br />
  There is no intention to offend, I am a real gasbag, I thought it interesting but it offends<br />
   <br />
  I find myself unable to follow the threads, I read and understand them, but there seems to be a “presumed knowledge,” it eludes me…<br />
   <br />
  Biollante<br />
      <b><a href="http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9655-Can-too-much-co2-be-a-bad-thing" target="_blank">Can too much co2 be a bad thing?</a></b><br />
   <br />
  Removed as offensive from post <a href="http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9655-Can-too-much-co2-be-a-bad-thing?p=78643#post78643" target="_blank">#5</a><br />
  <b>Streptococcus &amp; Serious Eye Infections, Ok So Neon Tetra Disease </b><br />
  Hi,<br />
<br />
Erythromycin is generally most effective in alkaline conditions generally pH 7.2 is listed as the minimum effective pH.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
A couple of problems Erythromycin, is very harsh stuff, for aquatic situations, mainly effective for serious eye infections (Gram-positive) and Streptococcus, beyond that not overly effective. Even then I would not recommend the use of Erythromycin in any tank that hasn’t been established for at least a year. In my ever-humble-potted-plant opinion Erythromycin are over-rated for aquatic infections. <br />
<br />
<br />
Since cyanobacteria have Gram-negative cell walls, Erythromycin is not a terribly good choice, as always in as diverse a group as cyanobacteria, there are exceptions.<br />
<br />
Then I am one of those evil plant monsters that simply do not think “shortcuts” in general are a good idea.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Why not change the conditions to favor your desired plants, critters and microbes?<br />
<br />
<br />
Biollante<br />
   <br />
   <br />
  Removed as offensive to original poster, post <a href="http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9655-Can-too-much-co2-be-a-bad-thing?p=78656#post78656" target="_blank">#7</a><br />
  Hi,<br />
<br />
<br />
A couple of things just to make sure we are speaking the same language…<br />
  <br />
<ul><li style="">We      always capitalized the “<a href="http://www.barrreport.com/hardydiagnostics.com/articles/Hans-Christian-Gram.pdf" target="_blank">Gram</a>” in Gram-positive or negative, as we are      referring to a person not a <a href="http://physics.nist.gov/cuu/Units/current.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">SI</a>      mass unit.</li><li style="">The      Gram-positive or negative refers generally to the <a href="http://www.hhmi.org/biointeractive/Antibiotics_Attack/bb_1.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">cell wall of bacteria</a>.</li><li style="">Erythromycin      is not per se Gram-positive it has to do with the difference in uptake,      about <a href="http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC252138/" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">100 fold greater for Gram-positive than negative</a>. </li></ul><br />
  <br />
I would love to see the microphotographs. We should be able to <a href="http://www.ucmp.berkeley.edu/bacteria/cyanointro.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">see</a> the <a href="http://www.mansfield.ohio-state.edu/%7Esabedon/biol3018.htm#cyanobacteria" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">type</a> of <a href="http://www.bacterio.cict.fr/classifcyano.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">cyanobacteria</a> and perhaps the microbial zoo making their homes or at least their living in and around the colony.<br />
<br />
<br />
The <a href="http://serc.carleton.edu/microbelife/research_methods/microscopy/gramstain.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">staining technique</a>, the <a href="http://www.cliffsnotes.com/study_guide/Staining-Techniques.topicArticleId-8524,articleId-8413.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Cliff Notes</a> version, makes it very clear very quickly, as to whether it is a Gram-positive or negative.<br />
<br />
<br />
A factor many aquarist miss is that cyanobacteria <a href="http://jb.asm.org/content/183/2/411.short" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">fix Nitrogen</a> and I think helps explain the reason it is so often associated with new aquariums though <a href="http://jb.asm.org/content/175/5/1284.abstract" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">these</a> are marine it gives a good explanation. I believe that the “shortcuts” many advise actually exacerbate the problem and work to favor the cyanobacteria. Since our friendlier <a href="http://www.barrreport.com/Nitrosomonas" target="_blank">Nitrosomonas</a> and <a href="http://genome.jgi-psf.org/nitwi/nitwi.home.html" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Nitrobacteria</a> are slower doubling Nitrogen fixers. <br />
<br />
<br />
One problem with just cranking up the Carbon dioxide in a cycling tank is it may slow the good bacteria. Likely,<sup>1</sup> the best bet is to oxygenate, cyanobacteria are <a href="http://www.barrreport.com/pcp.oxfordjournals.org/content/50/9/1663.full.pdf" target="_blank">sensitive to oxygen</a> while our friendly Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacteria<sup>2</sup> <a href="http://www.neospark.com/images/Bioremid.pdf" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">require and are invigorated by oxygen</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
This is among the reasons a good first step is a series of large water changes when faced with a major outbreak of cyanobacteria in the aquarium.<br />
<br />
Trying to mend my old-gasbag ways so if anyone is interested I have more, if not…<br />
<br />
<br />
Biollante<br />
<sup>1</sup>The only bet in my ever-humble-potted-plant opinion.<br />
<sup>2</sup>I am aware there is a change of opinion on precisely which bacteria do what and that it is obvious there are indeed a series of bacteria at work and is beyond the scope of this conversation.<br />
   <br />
   <br />
  Request of OP whom I offended <br />
  Hi B,<br />
  No Intention to Offend, I Will Delete Offending Useless Post<br />
  I only know what I read, I have no magical powers, some is an attempt to get information out, my bad, it is an old-gasbag thing.<br />
   <br />
  I still do not understand Erythromycin, but I am not very bright in that way, it was the Erythromycin, three times no less, more than anything else that mislead me.<br />
   <br />
  Biollante<br />
  :nonchalance:</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
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			<title>The Great Potassium Permanganate, KMnO4 Shortage of 2010</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/13-The-Great-Potassium-Permanganate-KMnO4-Shortage-of-2010</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 27 Feb 2010 07:21:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>---Quote (Originally by Biollante)--- 
Hi,  
 
This thread is the follow on to the hijack of Where to Get Plants, thread...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore"><div class="bbcode_container">
	<div class="bbcode_quote">
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			<div class="bbcode_quote_container"></div>
			
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					<img src="images/misc/quote_icon.png" alt="Quote" /> Originally Posted by <strong>Biollante</strong>
					<a href="showthread.php?p=47202#post47202" rel="nofollow"><img class="inlineimg" src="images/buttons/viewpost-right.png" alt="View Post" /></a>
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				<div class="message">Hi, <br />
<br />
This thread is the follow on to the hijack of Where to Get Plants, thread <a href="http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/6831-where-to-get-plants/page2" target="_blank">http://www.barrreport.com/showthread...t-plants/page2</a> <br />
<br />
The <i>big three</i> for plant sanitizers, because they are cheap and (<i>supposed to be</i>) readily available, are <b>Bleach</b>, 19 or 20:1 solutions of 5% Sodium hypochlorite, <b>Potassium Permanganate</b>, KMnO4, dilute solution and <b>Alum</b> solutions.<br />
<br />
<u>Potassium Permanganate, KMnO4</u> in this <i>Evil Plant Monsters</i> opinion is the best general method for <i>sanitizing</i> plants and for that matter, most aquarium equipment such as nets, forceps, scissors gravel vacuums, tubing, glassware and so forth. If covered Potassium permanganate is reusable for quite a while. <br />
<br />
Potassium permanganate and bleach are strong oxidizers, be careful with them. Wearing gloves is a good idea; Potassium permanganate will dye your hands as well. Rinse plants after in a tub or bucket of water with three to five times dechlorinator. If there is any bleach smell at all, rinse some more and add dechlorinator if needed.;)<br />
<br />
Should you inadvertently dye something with Potassium permanganate, Sodium bisulfate works wonders, not that I have ever needed it. :o<br />
<br />
If you use Alum, a good rinse in clean water. <br />
<br />
Instructions are available all over the place. <a href="http://www.plantgeek.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1445" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.plantgeek.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1445</a><br />
<br />
I then heard <i>wild stories</i> of Potassium permanganate <i>shortages </i>and <i>price gougers </i>getting $US 9.00, plus shipping for 16 ounces of 3% solution <a href="http://www.aquabotanicstore.com/Aqua...p/abdis-16.htm" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://www.aquabotanicstore.com/Aqua...p/abdis-16.htm</a>. <br />
<br />
Being the condescending old gasbag I am, I assumed it was just another newbie ripped-off. :p<br />
<br />
Then Dan of Philosophos fame and S the shoggoth43 chimed in that they also had problems purchasing Potassium permanganate, with folks at Sears playing the terrorism card. :confused:<br />
<br />
I suspected this may be a case where asking for Potassium Permanganate, KMnO4 may get in the way, asking for <i>'stuff'</i> for your iron filter on the water softener, is <i>better</i> than being knowledgeable. <i>Stuff</i> to get rid of the rotten egg smell in your well water. Pool supply places as a <i>disinfectant</i>. So on. Alternatively, the aliases TheLoudCreatureWhatSharesMySpace listed; Permanganate of Potash; Condy’s crystals; Permanganic acid or potassium salt. <br />
<br />
TheLoudCreatureWhatSharesMySpace also found Potassium permanganate <i>readily</i> available online. <a href="http://shop.chemicalstore.com/naviga...l.asp?id=PP100" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">http://shop.chemicalstore.com/naviga...l.asp?id=PP100</a> remembering a pound of this will make 30 plus 16 ounce, 3% solutions, $US 13.00 (another $US 7.00 for shipping). :rolleyes:<br />
<br />
Now me being a potted plant with some health issues, I do not get out much, so continuing my condescending old gasbag ways, I figured them youngsters, smart and good-looking fellers they me be, just were not asking properly.  <br />
<br />
My driver took me out, first stop Ace Hardware, after all my bucket of Potassium permanganate has “Ace Hardware” right on the label. Well the folks at the Ace Hardware are certainly nice people, even gave me a bag of popcorn, put had not a clue where the Potassium permanganate had gone. They called a manager that gave me my first real clue; he opined a shipping related terrorism issue had backed up the supply chain. Nevertheless, he really did not know much more about what was going on and if or when it might be resolved.<br />
<br />
Well we made another seven stops, no Potassium permanganate to be had anywhere. The driver drove, I Googled and phoned. I learned about CFR 49 and such, nothing there to stop the shipping of Potassium permanganate. :rolleyes:<br />
<br />
Now it is <i>my policy</i> to have <b>high-friends in low-places </b>and <b>low-friends in high places</b>, so I called one of those <b>low-friends</b>. While my <b>low-friend</b> did not know about Potassium permanganate in particular, my <b>low-friend</b> explained the <i>post 9/11 world </i>of transportation to me, <i>uh-huh</i>, sure did.<br />
<br />
Those of you here know I am not the brightest bulb and often have a great deal of difficulty with nuances of the English language, so I had to have this explained a couple of times.<br />
<br />
Why for instance, a common commodity, such as Potassium permanganate should be so readily available to any numb-nut <i>or</i> evil plant monster, but cannot be purchased locally.<br />
<br />
<b>Well.</b><br />
<br />
<i>“They”</i> got rules, that do not have the force of law, <i>“they” </i>say, but everyone <i>has</i> to follow them, that is why reading CFR 49 sheds little light (like 3-umol). :p<br />
<br />
My <b>low-friend</b> (in a rather high place) explained that things purchases over the internet are easily <i>tracked</i> and <i>“quantities”</i> out of proportion to <i>“reasonable”</i> and <i>“assumed”</i> uses can be monitored, <i>civilly</i>. :eek:<br />
<br />
Then <i>“if allowed”</i> back in the retail market the retailer is expected to <i>“know their customer”</i> and pass along information if it does not <i>“seem right,”</i> all <i>civilly</i>. <br />
<br />
At any rate a little more digging and it <i>appears </i>CSX, a very large rail freight company has issued rules that, while they do not have the force of law, ultimately has brought certain commodities, among them Potassium permanganate, to a standstill.<br />
<br />
Anyway, I should point out that Potassium permanganate is a high-energy oxidizer and I have no doubt the potential for abuse and/or misuse is real. :(<br />
<br />
Potassium permanganate does indeed have many qualities to recommend it, but if you are going to handle it make sure you have a reasonable idea of what you are doing. ;)<br />
<br />
Biollante</div>
			
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</div></blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/13-The-Great-Potassium-Permanganate-KMnO4-Shortage-of-2010</guid>
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			<title>CaCl2</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/8-CaCl2</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 15 Feb 2010 22:42:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
 
If what I write makes you angry, please go away, that is okay, I am not trying to make anyone angry, life is really too short. :) 
 
If you...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Hi,<br />
<br />
If what I write makes you angry, <i>please</i> go away, that is okay, I am not trying to make anyone angry, life is really too short. :)<br />
<br />
If you are new to aquatic plants don’t worry about the whys and wherefores, this is stuff that may never be important to you. (Or anyone else on the planet.)<br />
<br />
This is an example of both observation and what I mean by replicating things in various forums. Many times replicating situations takes some time and effort, sometimes not. :D<br />
<br />
I have found replication a good way to separate the wannabes, phonies and liars. At the same time places me in a position to learn something. It was by replicating things; I found this website and came to trust the information. Though to be honest, I kind of “knew” Tom Barr from olden days posting and had already been “influenced.” :p<br />
<br />
What I love is running across a situation, I think I understand and being led <i>“down the rabbit’s hole,”</i> an innocuous post complaining about mixing Calcium chloride and Epsom Salt, but blaming it on the Calcium chloride, <i>stating</i> that it was because Calcium chloride “does not dissolve that well in water.”<div style="margin-left:40px"> I jumped on the obvious error, mixing Calcium chloride (CaCl2.2H2O, the dehydrate) and Epsom Salt (MgSO4.7H2O, the heptahydrate) I had made it myself, though I had less excuse than most to make such a mistake. </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> Mixing CaCl2 and MgSO4 will just make a mess, though it will not do any harm either, no need to throw it out, just mix it well before using and let it remind you each time why we do not mix Calcium and Magnesium, these metals simply to not work and play well together. My very smart friend Jonny explained that that the “mess” was, Calcium sulphate (CaSO4) that is not highly soluble, this is plaster of Paris.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> I mix stock solutions of Calcium chloride regularly. Being not very bright, I did not know, nor did I look up how much Calcium Chloride can go into solution. In a 500 ml Erlenmeyer flask, I poured 250 milliliters of distilled water.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> I mixed 50 grams (about 11 teaspoons) of CaCl2, 5 grams (call it a heavy teaspoon) at a time into the aforementioned flask while swirling said flask.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> Personally, I have never had problems with CaCl2, I mix and keep it separate. </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> I mix all my fertilizer solutions with distilled water; remember CaCl2 in water is exothermic, capable of reaching 140 F (60 C).</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> The first 35 grams went almost immediately (7 or 8 swirls) into solution, 40 and 45 grams each took several times longer. After 45 grams, I did notice an almost fractured surface forming, a few swirls and that went away. The last 5 grams did take 35 or 40 seconds swirling; I also recorded a temperature of 110 F (43.33 C). </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> Thirty-five minutes later, the solution cooled to room temperature, 72 F (22.22 C) from a high (recorded anyway) temperature of 114 F (45.56 C). Swirled in front of a bright light, it is a milky, say 10-15% opaque solution; I can indeed see individual particles suspended in the fluid.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> About this time Dan of Philosophos fame who is very knowledgeable about formulas and such, though a little fuzzy on <i>“ides”</i> and <i>“ines”</i> came up with numbers for Calcium chlorides solubility in distilled water. If I worked at it, I should have been able to get at least 150 grams or three times as much into my 250 milliliters of distilled water. </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> I mixed 20 grams, 5 grams at a time, of anhydrous Calcium chloride (anhydrous, just means without water so it is CaCl2) into 250 ml aquarium water (392 mv). </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> It took me several times longer to incorporate the Calcium chloride into the aquarium water (392-mv) at 80 F (26.67 C). The resultant solution is milky, 25% opacity, with some fine (40-60 microns) white particulates suspended in solution and a few larger, darker (~100 microns) particulate matter, that I had not noted in examining the aquarium water in front of a bright light.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> I mixed 20 grams of anhydrous Calcium chloride into 250 ml aquarium water (392-mv), as above then added 10 grams of Epsom Salt. </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> The resultant product was an opaque milky mixture, immediately precipitate began forming and dropping out. Within 20 minutes, the upper third was clear. </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> I swirled the flask, got everything back into suspension. I removed 40 ml and dumped it into my hapless 2.5-gallon aquarium (378 mv). </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> I watched the glimmering, since we have established that I am not Anna Torv (:(we learned this disappointing truth earlier), I know that this is a difference in density and not a tank from an alternate universe, water swirl the fine particulate around the tank. </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> Since the tank has a dolomite cap on the substrate and a high water turnover rate (32 times an hour) I was unable to follow what happen to the suspended fines. The tank which had been 368-mv, dropped to 318-mv, one would expect the ORP values to drop with the addition of calcium or magnesium. One hour later the water was 365-mv; I do not know the significance (well I kinda do, but that is for another blog post).</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> When I emptied the flask, I found a tough crystalline coating on the bottom of the flask. Poking and scraping with glass stirring rods only scratched the surface; distilled water did next to nothing. Heating 250 ml of water to boiling in the flask, removed some. Distilled white vinegar of course did the trick and cleaned the flask. Dan had affirmed the nasty flask bottom.</div>Along the way, it caused a few of us to think about how we get Calcium into our tanks, the value or lack thereof chloride (another blog post), even a thought about dosing Phosphate (definitely another blog post).<br />
<br />
Sometimes I just do things, nothing has gone wrong, so I never consider what, how or why I do it, until someone asks an honest question, thank you, honest questioner. :cool:<br />
<br />
Biollante</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/8-CaCl2</guid>
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			<title>Does Estimative Index (EI) work?</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/7-Does-Estimative-Index-(EI)-work</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 15 Feb 2010 05:19:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
 
If what I write makes you angry, please go away, that is okay, I am not trying to make anyone angry, life is really too short. :) 
 
I get a...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Hi,<br />
<br />
If what I write makes you angry, please go away, that is okay, I am not trying to make anyone angry, life is really too short. :)<br />
<br />
I get a fair number of pm’s, emails and I find the sum total of the underlying questions about EI is, “Does it really work?” “Is it really that simple?<br />
<br />
The sum total of my answer is <b>yes</b>, to both questions. <br />
<br />
The strange thing is all the questions all the parts per this and parts per that. RO/DI, NH4,NO3-N, CaCO3, PO4, KNO3 K2SO4 and what is it K2HPO4 or KH2PO4, sometimes I feel as though I am reading one of those old comics when the characters cursed the balloon had <b>&amp;%#K2&amp;^%</b>  <b>SO$&amp;</b> <b>^%^&amp;</b>, it really is too much.<br />
<br />
The basic answer is <b>anyone</b> can have a successful planted tank on straightforward EI dosing. <br />
<br />
<div style="margin-left:40px"> <b>Decide</b> what kind of tank you wish. Do yourself a favor and stick to ‘lower’ lighting and even lower if you are using T-5 lighting. More lighting more CO2, do not kid yourself. Pressurized CO2 is no place to skimp, a lot more on this later.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> If this is your<b> first attempt</b> at a planted tank or you have been unsuccessful in the past give yourself a very large break and start with “easy, hardy” plants, consider a package deal.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> <b>Avoid jargon</b>, ask if you see initials or acronyms you do not understand, a lot of folks that really do not know what they are talking about, or who want to sell you stuff, love jargon.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> It may not seem like a big deal now, but <b>think about water changes</b>, you know you best. The time to drill or do some plumbing work is before the water goes in. Buy more pump than you think you need, consider a sump, good pumps, filters; are a good place to put your money. This is a hard concept for many new aquarists; ongoing maintenance will cost you more than the initial setup with everything.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> When possible <b>use dry fertilizers</b>. Do not worry about overdosing your fertilizers, your plants and critters can take many times the recommended EI dosing. Start with the range recommended <div class="bbcode_container">
	<div class="bbcode_description">HTML Code:</div>
	<pre class="bbcode_code" style="height:3*12px};">here http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/2819-EI-light-for-those-less-techy-folks</pre>
</div>. </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> It really <b>does not matter</b> whether you dry dose that is put the ingredients directly into the tank, or use ‘stock’ solutions, that is dry fertilizers mixed with distilled or deionized water.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> <b>To start</b>, ignore any advice that tells you to deviate. To start use the gross gallons of your tank, if it makes you feel better deduct ten percent.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> Low light use the lower end of the scale. More light more fertilizers.</div><div style="margin-left:40px"> More light, more CO2.</div>More later.<br />
<br />
Biollante</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
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			<title>Happy Arizona Day</title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/6-Happy-Arizona-Day</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 15 Feb 2010 02:58:21 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
 
I cannot believe I almost forgot to wish everyone a happy Arizona Day. :o 
 
I have read this is one of the biggest days for chocolate and...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Hi,<br />
<br />
I cannot believe I almost forgot to wish everyone a happy Arizona Day. :o<br />
<br />
I have read this is one of the biggest days for chocolate and flowers all year long, all over the country. :D<br />
<br />
It is quite amazing how many people celebrate Arizona Day! :cool:<br />
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A little about me.<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-left:40px">I started here on the Barr Report as I suspect many did. For a couple of years I read and I asked a few questions, due principally to health issues I stopped and started a couple of times as a “Junior Poster” then a &quot;Prolific Poster.&quot; <br />
<br />
This past year as I regained my health I signed up as a ‘real’ subscriber, I could not believe all the stuff I had been missing! I got my monies worth the first week or two. <br />
<br />
Not to mention I found out I really had nothing to worry about health wise, ‘cause when you become a <u><b>Lifetime Charter Subscriber</b></u>, they tell you how long that is. Which caused<i> me</i> to wonder<i> if</i> they send you your Lifetime membership and it expires next week, will they give you, or your heirs, a refund?</div>Biollante</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/6-Happy-Arizona-Day</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA[The Ol' Gasbag]]></title>
			<link>http://www.barrreport.com/entry.php/5-The-Ol-Gasbag</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 15 Feb 2010 01:26:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, 
 
The ol’ gasbag, Biollante here, given my lack of success on the forum-posting front I will try messing up blogging. :o 
 
I am going to write...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<blockquote class="blogcontent restore">Hi,<br />
<br />
The ol’ gasbag, Biollante here, given my lack of success on the forum-posting front I will try messing up blogging. :o<br />
<br />
I am going to write my observations over 50 plus years of fish and plant keeping. I am going to avoid advice. These are my experiences, nothing more.<br />
<br />
If it happens that I do something differently from you, you are under no obligation change what you are doing. If what I write makes you angry, please go away, that is okay, I am not trying to make anyone angry, life is really too short. :gw<br />
<br />
I believe in observation, I like to set up multiple tanks and try variations on a theme. I like trying to recreate interesting (to me anyway) situations people describe on various forums (fora for purists). <br />
<div style="margin-left:40px"> One of the coolest has been the ‘raw’ worm poop substrates, can you say “Mount Vesuvius.” It was too cool (I know ol’ gasbag speak). I was not bright enough to capture the gasses, but they were spectacular (six 10-gallon tanks of various ‘doneness’ and adulterations and a boring fully cooked version). </div><div style="margin-left:40px"> I think any credence the myth of gases from rotting material killing fish, shrimp, snails, worms and so forth are pretty well busted. However, I should note that many of the critters were not real happy either. <b>Note:</b> I think the cycle of these tanks preclude any conclusions regarding the effects of anaerobic conditions in a deep bed or compacted substrate. I have a couple of those going. I will publish my results somewhere along the way.</div>Folks let me know there is no place and no interest in this kind of stuff on the Barr Report Forum, so I will put it here.<br />
<br />
Pictures will be forth coming, as I have said before the life of an evil plant monster is a complex one. The folks that own the rights to my images are cooperating and I hope to have my website up and running soon.<br />
<br />
More in a bit, if I can figure this confounded thingy out. :eek:<br />
<br />
Biollante</blockquote>

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			<dc:creator>Biollante</dc:creator>
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