Yes, you defintiely should add TMG once a week. It does not need to be much. 10mls, or 2 x 5 mls. You can test the GH once a month or two to see if it's going up.down and then back off if it's going up or add more if it's going down.

Anubias seem to be trace sensitive which is odd for such a slow growing plant.

Regards,
Tom Barr

Hi Tom, the EI method gave me everything i need to not have algae anymore. Now, this non CO2 method seem even beter due to the fact that it need less to get as great result.
I have my 50g tank ready for the try. What do you think about 96w? is it to mutch?

Tom, I think I'm going to give this method a try. I have an old 48l (12.5g) tank with a 15w light on it. Several questions:

- Is this lighting (1.2wpg) too low even for a non-CO2 tank? It's the lighting that came with the tank.

- My tapwater has a KH of 15 and a GH of 18-19. I can grow most plants in this water in hi-light CO2 setups. But for a tank without water changes, should one top off with tap water, or with RO water to limit the increase in GH? Another option of course would be to start off with 100% RO water, add Seachem Eq. and baking soda to get KH and GH to around 5 or 6 and then top off with RO water, adding the Eq. once in a while?

Hi All,

First posting here. I have always been daunted by the hi-tech aspect of aquaria but came across this thread and am intrigued.

I live in NYC and do not have a decent local fish store nearby or at least something other than pet central. I want to start a 20gal tank that is easy maintenance like the ones described but where to start.

Would some kind soul be willing to give me a parts needs list or direct me to one?

Are my plant choices limited when using this kind of set up or are there specific types I should avoid and lean towards?

I was thinking of having a schooling group of fish and like that 'look'. I was leaning towards neon tetras but if someone suggests something else I would consider.

I think I read about an algae eater but I could not find the specific name?

I know, lots of questions, but beginners always are. Aren't they?

Thanks so much and hope this thread is not too old to get a response.

David

I'd use T5's at 1.5w/gal or less even.
Or about 80-100w T8's etc.
I think the watts are fine, but it's so bright right near the bulbs of the 96 watt lights, you'd better off raising it up at least 6-10". 10" would be okay ansd then you'd get a nice light spread. Not sure if you can do that with your hood or might be willing to DIY a hood that's that tall etc.

Regards,
Tom Barr

L- a 24 w T5 or a 20w T12 would be best.
A 24w T5 should be raised as suggested (6") in prior posting.

GH and KH will drop over time if you do not do water changes and prune and export plant biomass. So just use tap.
Top off with tap also.




Regards,
Tom Barr

I think I mentioned several types previously in the article.
Generally easier bread and butter type plants are best, money wort, Java fern, water sprite, Egeria, Hygro's and the like.
Then you phase in harder to grow plants slowly.

Amano shrimp are suitable for smaller schooling fish.
Very good cleaners, SAE's also.

Regards,
Tom Barr

I've been running an EI-method 72g for some time. I've had a lot of success with a wide variety of plants,



but now that I have a decent size fish load, dealing with algae issues has been a bit of a challenge.

On the other hand, I have a few smaller tanks with no EI or CO2 (and no ferts beyond fish food and wastes, and with easier, low light plants (egeria, anubias, ...) I've had a lot of luck as well.



I do weekly 50% water changes on all tanks, but other than that the non-CO2 have been low light, low work as Tom has suggested, but perhaps a little less interesting in some ways.

Tom,

I am interested in setting up a non co2 tank. I have a pressurized co2 tank and am getting ready to set up an excel tank and eventually a non co2 tank. It's winter in New England so what else am I going to do ? I would like to compare different methods. I have some questions on your article.

1. Can I use Eco complete for a substrate ? If it can be used do I still need mulm and a carbon source such as leonardite ? If I need it ,where can I get leonardite ?

2. Are any water changes ever needed ? If so, how much, when, what is the best way to do it ?

3. I was thinking about using a powerhead and sponge or power filter and floss for circulation. What do you suggest ? Is outgassing an issue ? I realize this is a non co2 tank but there will be small amounts of co2 present . Does this need to be preserved ?

Thanks.

Henry Hatch

HH,
Yes, EC will work great.
Leonardite may be added, mulm should be no matter what type of tank. Hydroponics stores sell it, Diamond Black or something or another.

WC are not needed unless you doa major rework/uprooting etc, once every 6months perhaps.

I'd personally use a canister filter or a HOB filter.
Never been a fan of internal filters, that's tank space better suited for other items(fish, plants etc).

Regards,
Tom Barr