What observations would prompt you to do a (large?) water change? I mean as different from just toping up the evaporation water?

Large water changes 25%-50% have only been needed in the following situations

• any problem algae issues, build up on glass
• uprooting, replanting
• reset the tank if ferts are off, ie build up

This 20 gal is the fist planted tank I learned on. It is near 2 years old and the last two water changes have been about 6 months apart. Most recent water change was 12/8/07 and haven't cleaned the glass since then. It runs great and have no immediate plans to change water.

The tank is a little dark due to the water sprite tree in the middle. Just left of center in a softball sized lava rock hollowed out with a blanket of Java moss growing over it. Just one example of Tom's non-carbon technique.

Looks great!

Thanks for the explanation and excuse if I am asking an apparently obtuse question, being new to planted tanks in general (coming from bare bottom simple fish tanks) - can I ask when you say 'ferts are off, ie build up', do you 'know' that by observation of plant growth, fauna behaviour or just as a regular schedule say every 6 months or so?

Mooner, if you and most folks keeping non CO2 tanks might try, do some scaping, you have a decent foreground and just need some background plants to make a nice layout, then move the water sprite to the back, Hygro difformis is easy, java fern, some driftwood etc, taller Crypts etc.

A clean front edge also makes the tanks look better.
You can run activated carbon for a couple of days to remove any yellow in the water then take the pic.

Part of the deal with the non CO2 method is really about less work, so fewer folks will scape with the method.

But.........it's not a reflection on the method itself.
You can still scape etc, it just takes longer.
But once the scape is established, then it last a lot longer as well.

Regards,
Tom Barr

Tom, thanks for the reply!

It's ironic that you would suggest aquascaping. I'm on the fence between weed grower and beginner aquascaper. I'm still reveling in the fact that I can grow plants But, I am finding myself reading more about trimming, placement, and rock/wood. I see moving in the direction soon, especially in the CO2 tanks. My problem is I draw a better square than a circle, not very artistic

Again, thanks for the guidance

This I should have made more clear, sorry. Not really a build up but what might be missing or what might be in excess.

I used to chase test kit readings and make quick changes. This did not bode well and the tank just wasn't stable(algae). So I shelfed the test kits and started paying closer attention to the plants and fish. Some things I observed just didn't match what the tests were showing. I slowly made changes("slow"hard to learn!) and continued to observe. Starting at the suggested dosing of this article and tweaking it a bit and with observation I have arrived at this point.

Remember that everyones water is a bit different and what works for one may not work completely for another. That is why observation is a powerful tool. I still goof up once in a while but it is another notch on the learning curve. I can say for myself that the basic knowledge I gained on this tank has paid off big when I moved into Excell tanks and then on to CO2.

My advise, spend some time observing, make changes slowly, be willing to make a change when you see something is needed and record the results for the future. Also read, read, read all you can. The answers needed for success are here on this forum.

Thanks Mooner. Much appreciated for the explanations of your personal experience!

Tom, curious as to how you go about measuring 1/8 or even 1/32 teaspoon, the dose sizes you recommend. Thanks

They sell such teaspoons, Wal Mart etc, you can also do the divide method, take a volume of 1/4, divide it by 2, 4 etc.

Your eye is good at 1/2's, not 1/3rds.

Then you have a close approximation.

However, it's generally best to use liquids and make a stock solution if you have tanks 20 gal or less. If your dosing is off 2X with PO4, no big deal, NO3, you likely will want more control. Since we add less PO4 in general, those low ranges really affect PO4 mostly, not NO3.

As long as you have 0.5 to 3.0 ppm or so, you are fine. If you have 5ppm, that's fine etc. Just be consistent in dosing.

Liquids or powders.
Overall, for the non CO2 method, liquids are a better option since you need less.
But you also have much much larger wiggle room.
You do not need the precision you might want with a high industrial growth system that adds CO2

So do not fall for the BS some will try and argue, the non CO2 system is much different and the response times and intensity of limitations is far less.

Nothing wrong with more precision, I just saying it is not required.
Wait a week or two longer(skip a week or two of dosing) to remove what's there if you over dose, feed the fish a bit more if you under dose etc.

The main reason is to just prevent strong limitations that will cause some species to not do well ands to relieve any plant=plant competitions(just like in natural system that don't have enriched CO2).

Plant - plant competition does occur in non CO2. I think folks do not see or realize it. We see it a lot in natural systems and it helps to explain their Ecology.

It can also occur in CO2 enriched systems as well.........some plants are very aggressive growers and will mop up all the CO2 or be able to start removing it much faster than another species.

In such tanks, you see some plants doing great, but a few not doing well over time. Adding say some more PO4, often relieves the issue, or more CO2 etc.
As biomass increases, this can occur more rapidly.



Regards,
Tom Barr

Here is where my inherent laziness is helping out. The glass cover on the tank is very water spotted and the bulbs are at least 5 years old. Those 2 factors must be dimming the light enough that the plants are growing quite well and algae is minimal. In fact the only algae is some green spot on the anubias' leaves and some on the glass. And the algae on the glass is slowly being eliminated by a horde of snails. I had been going to get some clown plecos to help with the algae and general clean up, but if I do now I'll need to feed them.

I've had enough success with this technique that I'm tempted to try it on my 150 gallon pond. How do you calculate the watts per gallon for a pond that is outside in the shade of a tree? I wonder if adding some equilibrium and phosphate would be good for the plants in the pond. I think less nitrate would be needed as there is enough debris in the form of leaves and plant matter to provide some of that.

What do you think? Would a form of this technique work in a pond?