I'm going to quote this too...

"So a 20 gal using excel would get:
2 w/gal light
Dose 1/8 teaspoon KNO3 1-2x a week
KH2PO4, 1/16th, 1-2x a week
Traces, 2mls 2x a week
SeaChem EQ 1/8th once a week
50% weekly water change
Dose 1.5-2x the rec dosing for Excel"

I have a 20 gallon that I would like to go low tech with. I understand all of the above, but I want to know what substate will work. The tank has been set-up for many months with just regular fine gravel. Will this gravel work or should I look into something else? Onyx sand has been recommended for no-CO2 tanks, but is this the same case for an excel dosed tank? Should I look for some flourite or eco-complete? Also, would 2 -15 watt bulbs be enough (1.5wpg) or should I look for a fixture that holds 2-20 watt bulbs?

Is growth with this excel set-up going to be "faster" than the no-CO2 method?
Thanks,
Matt

1.5 watts per gallon is enough light, but only with good reflectors. If you have nothing to capture and redirect the light from the sides and back of the bulbs you don't get the full benefit of those watts. It isn't hard to make acceptable reflectors for a fixture using screw-in spiral CF bulbs. Here is how I did it for a 10 gallon tank: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/f...gal-light.html

Looks good hoppy. I may have to give that method a shot. If I have two of those light units, would I want 4 bulbs @13 watts each (with two in each unit)? That would be more than the 2wpg. I think they do sell 10 watt bulbs also. What do you think?

Without CO2, with just Excel, I don't think you want to try really high intensity lighting. Excel only gives about a third of the growth rate that a good level of CO2 gives. So, you don't need as much light as with a CO2 tank. Intuitively I think something a bit less than 2 watts per gallon would be the goal. With those screw-in bulbs, maybe 2.5 watts per gallon?

And about the substrate for an excel tank? Whats recommended?

To get back on topic. A little. I have to offer much accolades to Diana Walstad and her book. It was the turning point for me in this hobby when I got my hands on her book. Finally advice and information that was actually logical. On top of that, the book led to a web search of her name which led to me finding the APD list and then months later this site was created. Funny thing is that she happens to live here in the same town as me and when I first met her at our local fish club meeting I tried to tell her about how much her book helped me and to thank her. Suffice it to say she doesn't take compliments very well. She stared at me like I was some sort of crazed paparazzi and backed quickly away. Since then we get along great, now I just keep my compliments to myself.

With that said. My present method is more of a mix between Barr's and Walstad's methods. Generally with a thin layer of red clay (for Fe) and then a couple or more inches (depending on size of tank) of gravel/sand from a nearby creek. Plenty of plants. No more than 2wpg or for the 2.5's in my window, a little early morning sunshine. Appropriate feeding for whatever is living there. And adding a little nitrate (Watson type) and such when the plants seem to be asking for it. I often get lazy and let things go for weeks if not months on end though. Sometimes everything is still fine, other times tanks have crashed. Not perfect, but I have a better effort to results ratio than anyone else I know.

So if somebody that has high GH tapwater naturally (like me), we're better off to use a trace mix like CSM+B Plantex?

If so, what's the dosing for that?

Per Nutri-calc 9 tsp to 500ml distilled H2O

So then you dose something like 1ml per 10 gallons a week for the traces?

I assume the rest of the ferts you dose dry, correct?

If you are dosing(not EI) for a non-carbon tank, you will only need small amount per your tank volume once weekly or two. CSB+B as mixed using the Nutri-calc can be used at near the same rate as TMG. Tom Barr has said if I recall correctly that you will get more Fe from CSM+B over TMG, but can't recall his mix.

Found it:


Personally I premix my dry ferts in DI water and dose in ML's. I don't think there's an issue with dry dosing either, your choice.

So, continue reading and follow the suggested rate in the article for non-CO2 and tweak as necessary(watch the plants)