How to build a Victor VTS253b-320

[Matt F.]

VTS253B-320 Build Part I

This is the first of a few installments on how to build a regulator. I have been learning as I go along with the help of many knowledgable individuals.

I'll try to make this process as detailed as possible.

Important Edit: I have since started to use teflon tape on all regulator body connection points. Non-hardening thread sealer is okay for the post body, but you may want to consider teflon tape for high pressure connections and to protect the female threads in the regulator body. Once these female regulator body threads are shot, they cannot be repaired. Your regulator becomes a piece of junk.

Part I:

I have not received all my parts, so like any mechanical job, I like to do all the prep work prior to all the parts getting here.

One thing you'll need is some type of thread sealer. It looks like Victor uses red Locktite on their connections. I found this out the hard way while trying to muscle the 1/4 x 1/4 nipple off the regulator body. It wouldn't budge, and I am fairly strong when it comes to turning wrenches (I can use arm strength to do most car suspension jobs, not that I like to).

Getting back to thread sealer, LeftC (at TPT and Tom's site) suggests the use of a teflon based liquid thread sealer, the non drying kind, so that when it comes time to disassemble you can do so with little headache.

Aqauriumplants.com recommends Locktite or teflon tape.

The other reason for using this liquid type of sealer is because teflon tape has a tendancy to shred and sometime end up inside your regulator, solenoid, or metering valve...

This obviously can cause problems.

I chose to use ARP's thread sealer, which is from my car days:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/stripped%20npt%20threads/install%20step%201/installpart1001.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/stripped%20npt%20threads/install%20step%201/installpart1002.jpg

To get the 1/4" mptx 1/4" fpt nipple off the regulator, I used a 19 mm deep impact socket and my 1/2" impact wrench, which did the job with little effort. For God's sake, make sure your impact wrench is set to reverse, not tighten!!! :lol:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/stripped%20npt%20threads/install%20step%201/19mm001.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/stripped%20npt%20threads/install%20step%201/19mm002.jpg

Caution: The use of a vice is recommended. If not, make sure you hang on to the regulator body and not the gauges!

Pics of before and after removal:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/stripped%20npt%20threads/install%20step%201/installpart1003.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/stripped%20npt%20threads/install%20step%201/installpart1004.jpg

[Matt F.]

See the red Locktite?

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/stripped%20npt%20threads/install%20step%201/installpart1005.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/stripped%20npt%20threads/install%20step%201/installpart1006.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/stripped%20npt%20threads/install%20step%201/installpart1007.jpg

This is where we will seal and install the 1/4" mpt (regulator body) x 1/8" mpt fitting.

You can see the original 1/4" mpt x 1/4" fpt fitting on the left. To the right of it is the new 1/4" mpt x 1/8" mpt that will go in its place:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/stripped%20npt%20threads/install%20step%201/oldnew001.jpg

[Matt F.]

Part II: this will be a multi-post update with about 25 pictures.

Today my Ideal Valve came via UPS:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/ideal1.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/ideal2.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/ideal3.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/ideal4.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/ideal5.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/ideal6.jpg

[Matt F.]

Now, to continue where we left off yesterday!

All pipe threads are coated with the ARp/teflon thread sealer.

Here is the 1/4" mpt to 1/8" mpt nipple connected to the regulator:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/in1.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/in2.jpg

Next came the 1/8" fpt x 1/8" mpt 90* elbow. I tried tightening this fitting to the already installed nipple, but then I quickly noticed that when it came time to tighten the solenoid, there wouldn't be enough clearance between the solenoid and the body of the regulator, so this is how I fixed that:


*** SEE POST #11 FOR IMPORTANT INFO REGARDING SOLENOID GAS FLOW DIRECTION***
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/in3.jpg

As you can see, I tightened the 90* elbow to the solenoid prior to screwing it onto the 1/4" x 1/8" regulator nipple.

then I attached both pieces:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/in4.jpg

[Matt F.]

Now it's time to connect the ideal valve to the solenoid. To do that, you need a 1/8" mpt x 1/8" mpt nipple. One side screws into the solenoid and the other screws into the needle valve.

You can see that I installed the 1/8" x 1/8" mpt nipple into the solenoid:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/in5.jpg

and attached the ideal valve to it:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/in6.jpg

Now it's time in install the Clippard checkvalve, which sits below the JBJ bubble counter/check valve. It's no secret that the JBJ check valves in the bubble counters fail often, so why not add an extra level of security?

Here is the Clippard Check valve installed on top of the ideal valve:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/in8.jpg

[Matt F.]

Regarding the JBJ bubble counter: the JBJ bubble counter comes with a small black o-ring. They place it on the CO2 tube nipple. See pictures for correct placement:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/jbj/jbj001.jpg

This is where the o-ring is placed at the factory for shipment:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/jbj/jbj002.jpg

This is where it needs to go:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/jbj/jbj004.jpg

Now, the last step before connecting everything to the CO2 tank to check for leaks: connect the bubble counter to the Clippard check valve:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/in9.jpg

The finished but not yet tested product:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/in10.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/in11.jpg

[Matt F.]

Here are some shots of the testing and finally the regulator in service:

I only use Butcher's Block Oil in the bubble counter, which is not toxic and regulated by the FDA. The upside to this is that the mineral oil does not evaporate at all. You never have to refill it and risk braking the JBJ's plastic bubble counter threads.

Another interesting tid-bit is that there is plenty of thread in all the NPT fittings to 1) secure them to the regulator and 2) to adjust the components as you want them. Since all regulators are different, you can do a dry-run of assembly to check for fitment. Just don't torque the fittings down till you're ready to assemble.

Take your time and enjoy the process.

Here are the pics:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/part2021.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/part2022.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/part2023.jpg

Finally in service: BTW, don't forget a perma seal or washer between the CO2 tank and the regulator CGA 320 connection.

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/part2024.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/build%20part%202/part2025.jpg

[Matt F.]

Since this build, I have removed the clippard jumbo check valve, which was causing some problems.

The 14.7 psi (Left C correct me if I am wrong) crack pressure in the clippard unit (which sits underneath the jbj bubble counter) didn't do well with the backpressure of a ceramic disc diffuser.

I noticed an audible clicking noise that increased with the bubble count...as I'd increase the flow, the clicking would become faster...same thing happened when I increased the working pressure to 30+ psi.

The suggested replacement part is slightly more expensive, but it is an in-stock item from swagelok...part number B-2C2-1/3. This works really well with regulator for our application. No noise, etc.
Here are the specs:
Part No.: B-2C2-1/3
Description: Brass Poppet Check Valve, Fixed Pressure, 1/8 in. MNPT, 1/3 psig (0.03 bar)
Unit Price: USD 21.32
Availability: Usually ships within 3 business days

This brass part is about 1/3 the price of the stainless counterpart, which I have used in my builds.


Here is the problem part:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/reg%208-23/reg8-23007.jpg


So I removed it and replaced it with a trusty 1/8" hex nipple:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/10-7/10-7001.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/10-7/10-7002.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/10-7/10-7003.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/10-7/10-7005.jpg

[Matt F.]

Here are some other links to DIY threads I posted here:

How to build a Victor VTS 253A-1993:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7787-How-to-build-a-Victor-VTS253a-1993

How to wire your own Burkert type 6011 solenoid:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7783-How-to-wire-a-Burkert-type-6011-solenoid

How to install a CGA 320 on a used Victor HPT 500:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7786-How-to-change-a-CGA-on-a-used-regulator

How to prep a used Victor HPT270 for a post body kit:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7788-How-to-prep-an-Victor-HPT-270-for-a-post-body

Why gas flow direction is important when installing a Burkert solenoid:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7864-Burkert-Solenoids-gas-flow-direction-is-important-in-preventing-leaks

How to build a Victor SGT 500: (90* output regulator)
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7879-How-to-build-a-Victor-SGT-500-Regulator
Happy reading.

How to adjust your Ideal Valve:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7971-How-to-adjust-your-Ideal-Valve

How to use Swagelok Tube Fittings:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings

DSR: Total Conversion From JBJ BUbble Counter to Swagelok Tube Adapter:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8227-DSR-Total-Conversion-from-JBJ-bubble-counter-to-Swagelok-Tube-Fitting

Gerryd's DSR Build:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8190-Gerryd-s-regulator-build-thread

Swagelok part numbers for two regulator configurations (regulator to tube adaper):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8332-Basic-Swagelok-Parts-needed-for-90*-and-VTS-Builds?p=62668#post62668

How to build an SGT 500 (2):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8516-How-to-Build-an-SGT-500-(2)?p=64375#post64375

Rainydazs' regulator build (GPT270):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8538-rainydazs-s-Regulator-Build

Samuel's VTS252D-350 build:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8595-Samuel-s-VTS252D-350-Build?p=65021#post65021

My two SGT500s:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8632-My-two-SGT500s-(thanks-to-Left-C)

Regulator Body Thickness?
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8671-Regulator-Body-Thickness?p=65564#post65564

Conversion from Swagelok tube adapter SS-6M0-1-2 (male) to SS-6M0-7-2 (female):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9103-Conversion-from-Swagelok-SS-6M0-1-2-(male-NPT)-to-SS-6M0-7-2-(female-NPT)?p=72227#post72227

New Matheson Model 8 owners check post # 34 on page 4 of this thread.

[Matt F.]

I made a slight correction in the DIY. Apparently there has been some confusion with how to install the o-ring that comes on the JBJ bubble counters. I have tried both ways (either on top of the hose--nipple side, or underneath the bubble counter in the female threads). What makes sense to me is to install this o-ring underneath the bubble counter between the 1/8"mpt fitting and the bubble counter's female threads. If you look, there is a flat mating surface where the o-ring can seat perfectly.

The correct way:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/jbj/jbj004.jpg

I have also tried to install this o-ring on top of the co2 hose. The nut and the o-ring place pressure on the hose...The application of the o-ring for a pressure seal is a bit redundant in that the nut fastens the hose on the nipple with enough pressure as to not neet the o-ring.

The incorrect way:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/9-5/jbj004.jpg

[Matt F.]

*** Important edit***
Important note to those of you using Burkert solenoids:

Another important issue with Burkert type 6011 solenoids in general is that they are designed to have gas flow in the "P" side of the solenoid and out the "A" side. If you reverse the flow, the solenoid will not seal properly and you can/will hear a hissing sound of gas escaping...This is what happened to my new Burkert solenoid.

I sent it back to burkert to have the enginners play with it.

So, when you are isntalling you solenoids, make sure that the "P" side, which stands for pressure is on the in-flow of gas side and the "A" is on the outflo side.

Worst case, you can remove the nut on the back, slide the black part of the solenoid off and flip the solenoid over to that the NPT part is on top. This is what I did (at the direction of Burkert engineers) and it works fine.


So gas flow should be:


----------------gas flow----------->"P"------------"A"-------------------->

or (if you've switched the solenoid over so that the "npt" side is up):

----------------gas flow----------->"TPN" (inflow is on the T side and outflow is on the N side).

Here is a DIY thread I did w/ pics: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7864-Burkert-Solenoids-gas-flow-direction-is-important-in-preventing-leaks

[Matt F.]

Here is the list I have used/use for parts. I have also posted this in Left C's Dual Stage Regulator Thread:
Since there is some confusion on where to buy parts, I have compiled a list of sources from this thread and others. I originally posted this list in my Victor DIY thread at my home forum with the help of Left C:

Parts Sources:

Brand new regulators:
VTS253B-320
http://www.alexgs.com/product/victor-0781-3573.html
VTS253A-320
http://www.alexgs.com/product/victor-0781-3569.html
HPT 270
http://www.alexgs.com/product/victor-0784-0144.html

Stainless and Brass NPT Fittings (npt check valves): Swagelok http://www.swagelok.com/default.aspx

Brass NPT fittings: Your local Ace hardware (bigway.com = bad quality and high shipping cost)

Buy a brand new Victor VTS253A-1993:
http://www.scientificvisions.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=52&osCsid=3lbrqre0j7338oe8a7u48fqu35


These following parts replace the JBJ bubble counter, so if you do not want a bubble counter attached to your regulator, this is the best option:
4mm ID/ 6mm OD:

For 4mm (ID)/ 6mm OD tubing (these parts work together to lock the hose on the barb):
B-6MO-1-2
http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=B-6M0-1-2&item=
and
B-6M5-4m
http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=B-6M5-4M&item=

*** 3/16" ID/ 1/4" OD tubing adapters are available with different part numbers. Please PM me for part numbers. ***

The stainless version can be ordered by substituting the "B" in the part number with an "SS."

1/8" ID / 1/4" OD:
Brass Hose barb adapter with locking nut mechagnism(these two parts work together)
B-400-1-2: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=B-400-1-2
B-405-2: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=B-405-2

Stainless Hose barb adapter with locking nut mechagnism(these two parts work together)
SS-400-1-2: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-400-1-2
SS-405-2: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-405-2

Ideal Valve: http://idealvalve.com/

CGA 320 Fitting (Brass): http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php/products/cga-320-nut-and-nipple

CGA 320 Fitting (Chrome Plated Brass and Stainless Steel): http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Smith/SpecMenu.html

Chrome plate your JBJ bubble counter: http://www.chromemasters.com/

JBJ bubble counter: http://cgi.ebay.com/JBJ-Bubble-Counter-Aquarium-planted-tank-Co2-solenoid-/250032959212?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a37202eec

Burkert Solenoids (Type 6011): http://www.iprocessmart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=4024T6011

Left C's new source for Burkert Buna-N Type 6011 Solenoids: (see post# 74) http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7429-Bürkert-6011-solenoids-with-Buna-seals-...-available-very-soon/page8

Clippard Jumbo Check Valve (part number: MJCV 1AA) and in-line brass check valves: http://clippard.com/

Burkert Type 6011 brass solenoid w/ Viton seals and regulator-to-tank Permaseals: http://www.aquariumplants.com/CO2_Accessories_s/50.htm

Parker Solenoid: http://www.sourceesb.com/ProdSearch.asp?part=20CC02LV4B4F&mfrfilter=36005

Here is a thread created by our own John Feuerhelm on STC solenoids and parts. (order numbers and contact info provided in thread):
http://forum.sfbaaps.org/viewtopic.php?t=5365

[Matt F.]

This is my latest build. It's a 90* exit regulator, which is different from the vts 253 series.

Enjoy!

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7879-How-to-build-a-Victor-SGT-500-Regulator

[barbarossa4122]

Hi Matt,

Maybe I am wrong but, my nipple (first one from the left or the 7 o'clock one) looks different on my Victor. Do I need to replace it ? Here is a pic:

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/barbarossa4122/th_114.jpg?t=1288403034

[Matt F.]

Hi Matt,

Maybe I am wrong but, my nipple (first one from the left or the 7 o'clock one) looks different on my Victor. Do I need to replace it ? Here is a pic:

http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/barbarossa4122/th_114.jpg?t=1288403034

Yes, you will need to replace it with a 1/4" mpt x 1/8" mpt hex nipple, which is the same part I installed on my vts253b-320.

[barbarossa4122]

Yes, you will need to replace it with a 1/4" mpt x 1/8" mpt hex nipple, which is the same part I installed on my vts253b-320.

Hi Matt,

I saw the one you used on your 253B. I'll check at Home Depot this wknd to see if they have it.
Thank you.

[Matt F.]

Hi Matt,

I saw the one you used on your 253B. I'll check at Home Depot this wknd to see if they have it.
Thank you.

Look at part 42-1

http://www.bigway.com/CARTgallery26.htm

I got all my parts from bigway.com

[barbarossa4122]

Look at part 42-1

http://www.bigway.com/CARTgallery26.htm

I got all my parts from bigway.com

Thanks again Matt. You are one of the best.

[Left C]

Thanks again Matt. You are one of the best.That wrench info link that you asked about also has bigway's part numbers on it.

[Matt F.]

Thanks again Matt. You are one of the best.

I'm learning from the best, Left C. His thread is my bible....LoL Sounds a bit weird, but true.

FYI, Victor/Thermadyne has excellent customer service via email. You can ask them any technical question and a tech will answer it promptly. I asked for some gauge part numbers and they sent it to me the same day.

J&R Welding is also awesome. With the part numbers Victor/Thermandyne provided, I'll be ordering some Victor/USG gauges through J&R. I'm glad he can get the correct OEM replacement gauges.

[Left C]

I get the part numbers out of the Victor parts manual. Then my Victor dealer orders them for me.

[Matt F.]

In case anyone needs the part numbers for "B" model stainless SGT 500 replacement gauges, just PM me. They are about $45 each.

[Matt F.]

This is a nice DIY for how to prep your regulator for all the parts you just ordered.
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7788-How-to-prep-an-Victor-HPT-270-for-a-post-body

The best place to buy a CGA 320 nut/nipple is:
http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php/products/cga-320-nut-and-nipple

Here is how to install a CGA 320 nut/nipple. I highly recommend teflon tape on the CGA nipple instead of non-hardening thread sealer. The teflon tape seals better on high pressure parts.
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7786-How-to-change-a-CGA-on-a-used-regulator

Hope this helps!

[Jowlz]

Matt,

Thanks for the excellent write up. It saved me a ton of leg work!

[Matt F.]

Matt,

Thanks for the excellent write up. It saved me a ton of leg work!

That's the idea! Glad it helped. Learn from my mistakes b/c I didn't have any threads to follow with step-by-step pictures.

side note, I went into my local Ace hardware and they have a full selection of npt brass fittings. If you want to circumvent the rediculous $12 shipping fee from bigway.com, go into your local Ace hardware store. You'll trully save money.

[barbarossa4122]

Another outstanding post (#23). Thanks Matt.

[pat w]

+1 on the outstanding post. Sweet, shiney, clean rig.

Makes me feel kind of guilty I'm working to sort of put you Reg. guys out of business.

Pat

[barbarossa4122]

Makes me feel kind of guilty I'm working to sort of put you Reg. guys out of business.

Pat

I don't:) I think they are doing OK.

[Matt F.]

+1 on the outstanding post. Sweet, shiney, clean rig.

Makes me feel kind of guilty I'm working to sort of put you Reg. guys out of business.

Pat

I think that's what capitalism is all about. Those who have a better product or a better way to do it push out those who offer a sub-par unit of the same price. Ready made units (i.e. Milwaukee, Azoo, and the countless others) will always have their niche for those who are not mechanically inclined or do not have the patience to deal with ordering parts, etc. Don't worry about regulator builders, they have their place, too.

Don't feel bad for demanding a quality piece of equipment for your money and investment.

fwiw, most of the aquarium regulators are made in china and taiwan. This plays into the big picture of outsourcing and the trade imbalance between Asian and the United States. The US unemployment rate is still high ,especially in California (nearly 12%). By buying locally made npt fittings from Ace hardware, Ideal valves from Bill Sand, and American made dual stage regulators, you are supporting American jobs/businesses.

What do you have to feel bad about?

Support your local businesses and American industry. Quality is second to none.

[Matt F.]

Another outstanding post (#23). Thanks Matt.

Thanks!

On the BHT and HPT 500 models, I like using a 2" nipple instead of a 2.5-3". It looks better IMO. See Left C's Dual Stage thread for pics.

[pat w]

What do you have to feel bad about?


Here you and LeftC and all the others are working so hard to bring high quality, high precision gas delivery systems to everyone in the hobby at affordable prices and I'm trying to design a reactor that doesn't need the quality or the precision. Granted I'm a ways off from declaring success.

Pat

[Matt F.]

Here you and LeftC and all the others are working so hard to bring high quality, high precision gas delivery systems to everyone in the hobby at affordable prices and I'm trying to design a reactor that doesn't need the quality or the precision. Granted I'm a ways off from declaring success.

Pat

The more options out there for us, the better (whether via reactor or dual stage regulator). These are two ways to circumambulate the problems we face when forced to deal with inaccurate and cheap aquarium equipment.

Nothing to feel bad about.

[Matt F.]

Here is the newest "how-to:"
How to adjust your Ideal Valve:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7971-How-to-adjust-your-Ideal-Valve

All my "how-tos" are linked in Post # 9 (Page 1) of this thread.

If anyone needs clarification, please feel free to PM me or post the question here.

[Matt F.]

As some of you know, I recently aquired a like-new Matheson Model 8-580. Thanks to the help of S&KGray at Barr's site, I was educated that I needed a fine thread CGA nipple, not the standard 1/4" npt that Victors and other regulators use.

According to my Jim at Regulator and Torch Repair, Matheson Model8s are made by Harris, who uses a strange inlet port thread. The output on these Mathesons is 1/4 npt, so you don't have to worry about post body kits.

Here is the link for the correct part:
http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php/products/cga-320ft-nut-and-nipple

You can also order them from Western Enterprises via Airgas: part number CO-7 (thanks again to S&KGray for the part number)

You use a regular CGA 320 nut with this fine thread nipple.
Below are some pics.

The difference between 1/4" npt and the 1/2" 27 thread:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/matheson/Matheson001.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/matheson/Matheson002.jpg

Here is the old CGA 580 next to the new CGA 320
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/matheson/Matheson004.jpg

Here is the new CGA 320 installed on the Matheson Model 8-580
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/matheson/Matheson006.jpg

FWIW, this brand of regular CGA nut/nipple is top notch. It comes with a nice 3" nipple , which includes a factory installed filter and a standard CGA 320 nut.
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/matheson/Matheson005.jpg

Here is the place to order this standard 1/4" nut/nipple (stem).
http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php/products/cga-320-nut-and-nipple

[Matt F.]

Here are three ways you can exit a 90* exit regulator like the HPT 500, BHT 500, SGT 500, and like regulators.

These are using Swagelok stainless parts:

Type 1: 2" long 1/4 npt (male) hex nipple (less restriction of gas flow):
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/90%20dgree%20post%20body%20styles/style2008.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/90%20dgree%20post%20body%20styles/style2007.jpg

Type 2: 1/4" male x 1/8" female reducer bushing, 2" long 1/8" npt male hex nipple: (this could be more useful on HPT 270s or regulators with larger gauges)
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/90%20dgree%20post%20body%20styles/style2001.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/90%20dgree%20post%20body%20styles/style2004.jpg

[Matt F.]

Type 3: 1/4" male x 1/8" female reducer bushing, 1/8" npt male hex nipple, which will get you the same amount of space as type 1 when everything is said and done.

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/90%20dgree%20post%20body%20styles/style2005.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/90%20dgree%20post%20body%20styles/style2006.jpg

[Left C]

Have you tried using a 1/4" x 1/8" reducer bushing on the regulator body and then a 1/8" nipple at whatever length is needed? This way, the elbow wouldn't be so large and the nipple extension's diameter wouldn't be as thick.

SS-4-RB-2 (http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-4-RB-2) Reducing Bushing, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: $5.74
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s320/Left_C/SS-4-RB-2.jpg

SS-2-HN (http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-2-HN) Hex Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $4.72
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s320/Left_C/SS-2-HN.jpg

SS-2-HLN-1.50 (http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-2-HLN-1.50) Hex Long Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 1 1/2 in. Length Price: $7.69
SS-2-HLN-2.00 (http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=SS-2-HLN-2.00) Hex Long Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 2 in. Length Price: $8.20
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s320/Left_C/hexlongnipple.jpg

[Matt F.]

Have you tried using a 1/4" x 1/8" reducer bushing on the regulator body and then a 1/8" nipple at whatever length is needed? This way, the elbow wouldn't be so large and the nipple extension's diameter wouldn't be as thick.

SS-4-RB-2 (http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-4-RB-2) Reducing Bushing, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: $5.74
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s320/Left_C/SS-4-RB-2.jpg

SS-2-HN (http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-2-HN) Hex Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $4.72
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s320/Left_C/SS-2-HN.jpg

SS-2-HLN-1.50 (http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-2-HLN-1.50) Hex Long Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 1 1/2 in. Length Price: $7.69
SS-2-HLN-2.00 (http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=SS-2-HLN-2.00) Hex Long Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 2 in. Length Price: $8.20
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s320/Left_C/hexlongnipple.jpg

The pictures actually represent the parts you listed.

The parts show in my pics are: SS-4-RB-2(reducer bushing) , SS-4-HP (1/8" male hex nipple), and for the 2" long nipple, SS-2-HLN-2.00.

[Left C]

The pictures actually represent the parts you listed.

The parts show in my pics are: SS-4-RB-2(reducer bushing) , SS-4-HP (1/8" male hex nipple), and for the 2" long nipple, SS-2-HLN-2.00.Great! I see them listed. I didn't see Type 2 and Type 3 when I posted.

[Matt F.]

Great! I see them listed. I didn't see Type 2 and Type 3 when I posted.

The picture of the 1/4 mpt x 1/8 fpt reducer bushing is misleading (not your fault, swagelok's...lol).

That part does look a bit different. It sticks out more than the picture your link shows.

[Matt F.]

For those of you who want a chrome plated brass CGA 320 nut/nipple/stem, this place has them in stock for $27 shipped if you ask for it to be sent via USPS priority mail (small flat rate).

These come with a filter and are breat quality. I run these on all my chrome plated brass regulators. They are 3" long, so you have plenty of space.

http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Smith/SpecMenu.html

To order:

on the left of the screen, (black menu), scroll down till you see:
"Accessories
CGA Parts, Tube Fittings,
Replacement"

Click on this, and it wil bring you to the Smith CGA order page.
Just click on CGA 320 (nut $11) and CGA 320 (nipple $11).

Make sure to note you would like it shipped USPS flate rate small box; otherwise, you'll get it via UPS, which will cost more ($10).

Note: you'll have to pay the $32 upfront, but they will correct this after the order is placed once they switch from UPS shipping to USPS. The total you will pay is $27 ($11nut+$11nipple+$5 shipping).

[Matt F.]

Here are the parts I listed. This is how they come:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-13/12-13020.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-13/12-13021.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-13/12-13022.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-13/12-13023.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-13/12-13024.jpg

[Matt F.]

here are all my rigs:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/tools/thetroops001.jpg

BHT 500-40-350-4M
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/tools/thetroops002.jpg

BHT 500-125-296-DK
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/tools/thetroops003.jpg

Matheson 8-580
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/tools/thetroops004.jpg

SGT 500-125-330-DK
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/tools/thetroops005.jpg

VTS253A-1993
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/tools/thetroops006.jpg


I have one more BHT 500-125-296-DK (Red Knob) and a Heavy Duty VTS450E-580 on the way.

[Matt F.]

New VTS450E-580(Victor Heavy Duty w/ Stainless diaphrams)
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-15/12-15-10007.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-15/12-15-10008.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-15/12-15-10009.jpg

[Matt F.]

More pics:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-15/12-15-10010.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-15/12-15-10011.jpg

side by side: (the victor is much heavier despite the size similarity)
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/12-15/12-15-10012.jpg

[Matt F.]

all ready for co2:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/ready%20for%20co2/readyforco2002.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/ready%20for%20co2/readyforco2003.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/ready%20for%20co2/readyforco2001.jpg

[barbarossa4122]

Hi Matt,

Never mind:) I had a q but, it's resolved for now.

[barbarossa4122]

Hi Matt,

From where did you buy the 1/4" mpt to 1/8" mpt nipple ? Home Depot do not have right now and I really need 2 of them. Can you sell me a couple if possible ?

[Matt F.]

swagelok has these reducer nipples:

part numbers:

Brass: B-4-HRN-2
Stainless: SS-4-HRN-2

Swagelok supercedes any other fittings' quality on the market. It's worth the price over home depot, ace, or bigway.

I have one stainless in stock. pm me.

You could also do a male 1/4--->female 1/8 npt reducer bushing to a 1/8" male hex nipple.

[barbarossa4122]

You could also do a male 1/4--->female 1/8 npt reducer bushing to a 1/8" male hex nipple.

Please forgive me but, can you explain more about doing this male 1/4................................:)

[Matt F.]

If you look at these two BHT 500s, I have outfitted the post body with a 1/4" npt male x 1/8" female reducer bushing and a 1/8" npt hex nipple. Both are swagelok stainless components.
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/ready%20for%20co2/readyforco2003.jpg


You can either use a 1/4" npt x 1/8" npt male hex reducing nipple (part numbers listed above) or do it this way.

[barbarossa4122]

Thanks a lot Matt. Now it make sense even to me.

[Matt F.]

np, that's what this thread is about. ;)

[barbarossa4122]

Double post

[Matt F.]

Due to some recent interest in the specific part number of the parts used in the VTS253B-320 build, I have decided to list them so that all can benefit.

Originally I bought all my components from an online propane store. The quality of the parts were inferior and the shipping was total BS ($12 for a $2 part). The online ship kept $10 of the $12 they charged for shipping and handling on top of the cost of the part, so, if you do the math, they made $12 on a $2 part...doesn't make sense to me! Hence my decision to not use or support that site by listing them.

What I have found out through the process of building several of these regulators is that Swagelok parts are far superior to anything on the market as far as quality and finish. Of course they make parts for nuclear reactors! zero margin for error in some cases...lol

So, from the regulator the parts are:

B-4-HRN-2 (brass hex reducing nipple)

B-2-SE (street elbow)

B-2-HN (nipple)

Burkert Solenoid

B-2-HN (nipple)

Ideal Valve V52-1-12 (90* version w/ micrometer handle)

B-2C2-1/3 (check valve)

JBJ bubble counter.

All the part numbers that start with a "B" are to be found on the swagelok website. You can buy direct by creating an account. Shipping is only through UPS, so expect to pay for UPS ground. They take credit/debit cards, etc.

[barbarossa4122]

Hi Matt,

I installed the stainless steel fitting you sent me. Thanks again.
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/barbarossa4122/037.jpg?t=1295391372
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/barbarossa4122/039.jpg?t=1295391650

[Matt F.]

Hi Matt,

I installed the stainless steel fitting you sent me. Thanks again.
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/barbarossa4122/037.jpg?t=1295391372
http://i832.photobucket.com/albums/zz242/barbarossa4122/039.jpg?t=1295391650


Glad you got it! Looks good.
Just wipe off that extra pipe dope! ;)

[reybie]

I have a Victor 360A, single stage, that I'd like to check if it can be converted for CO2 use also. I can get the CGA nipple and fittings locally but need to check if it's doable first. Searches keep coming up SR350, but model number stamped is 360A. Pic of regulator. (http://offsitepc.com/fishy/victor_reg.jpg)

This is from search result. (http://victortorch.blogspot.com/2010/02/victor-sr350-medium-duty-acetylene_1871.html)

[Matt F.]

That looks like it could be an older model number. Could be that Victor doesn't make it anymore. It's single stage regulator, so you won't get the benefits of a dual stage (constant output/working pressure as your tank pressure drops, etc.).

It's better quality than aquarium regulators, though. It's prob even better quality than what most are selling. The reason they don't go with victor, matheson, etc is that they can't make any money off of them. The material cost is so much,

So, if you want to convert it to CO2, I don't see a problem. Buy any normal 1/4" npt cga 320 nut/nipple (stem) fitting and that should work. If it's a large version with enough clearance, you can go with a shorter nipple.

[Matt F.]

Just to let you all know, I have decided to replace my leaking JBJ bubble counters with swagelok hose barbs and ADA bubble counters.
The JBJ check valves are known to fail. I had swagelok check valves in place in case they failed, but I fugure replace the weak links and have double the protection.

I'll update this thead with pics in the near future once installed.

parts for this modification, which will adapt to my ss-2c2/1/3 check valve:

ss-2-a
ss-400-1-2
ss-405-2

ADA glass bubble counter.

[reybie]

That looks like it could be an older model number. Could be that Victor doesn't make it anymore. It's single stage regulator, so you won't get the benefits of a dual stage (constant output/working pressure as your tank pressure drops, etc.).

It's better quality than aquarium regulators, though. It's prob even better quality than what most are selling. The reason they don't go with victor, matheson, etc is that they can't make any money off of them. The material cost is so much,

So, if you want to convert it to CO2, I don't see a problem. Buy any normal 1/4" npt cga 320 nut/nipple (stem) fitting and that should work. If it's a large version with enough clearance, you can go with a shorter nipple.

Thanks, I will bring it to the regulator repair here and get me that cga nut and nipple. I also have one of the dual stage regs with the fine thread inlet port. Thanks to the pics in the previous post I will know what I'm looking for. I think I will save the shipping charge and pay for gas to bring it to Phoenix and have it fitted there.

Now, I need to shop around for a solenoid.

[reybie]

Good news and bad news, I got the Fisher Scientific the new fine thread inlet (installed) but the guy said I won't get enough pressure for the Victor 360A, I didn't elaborate that I was going to use it for an aquarium though.

[Left C]

Good news and bad news, I got the Fisher Scientific the new fine thread inlet (installed) but the guy said I won't get enough pressure for the Victor 360A, I didn't elaborate that I was going to use it for an aquarium though.

What is the pressure range shown on the low pressure ugauge? 0 to what? Is it listed as psi, psig, or what? There are usually two two pressure ranges shown on each gauge.

[reybie]

What is the pressure range shown on the low pressure ugauge? 0 to what? Is it listed as psi, psig, or what? There are usually two two pressure ranges shown on each gauge.

Good thing I didn't delete this picture yet. You can actually make out the pressure range...
http://offsitepc.com/fishy/victor_reg.jpg

[Left C]

Good thing I didn't delete this picture yet. You can actually make out the pressure range...
http://offsitepc.com/fishy/victor_reg.jpg

It goes up to 30 psi which should work fine. 0 to 30 and 0 to 60 psi working pressure ranges are the most popular "for aquarium use."

[reybie]

It goes up to 30 psi which should work fine. 0 to 30 and 0 to 60 psi working pressure ranges are the most popular "for aquarium use."

Thanks! I'm going to change out the stem and nut and give it a try.

[Left C]

Thanks! I'm going to change out the stem and nut and give it a try.

It all depends on how much resistance that you will have. I can run 2 Clippard check valves with a ceramic disc diffuser using a regulator that has a 0 to 30 psi low pressure gauge. I set it on 15 psi and let it rip.

Some check valves and diffusers require more pressure to operate than what I used above.

You can add up the cracking pressure of the check valve(s) with how much pressure that is required to operate your diffusing method to get a good idea of the operating range needed.

[pat w]

I've allways been told to shy away from reg's that have been used with flamables (acetylene in this case). Is that not so?

Pat

[reybie]

I've allways been told to shy away from reg's that have been used with flamables (acetylene in this case). Is that not so?
Pat

What was the reasoning behind it? It would be nice to know for future reference :)

[pat w]

Never really asked till now. I can't remember who or when. I just remember being told reg's previously using CO2, O2, inerts (Nitrogen and such), and nobles (Helium, Argon, etc.) were all OK - volitiles were not. Most likely the remote possibility of a pocket of the gas remaining in the reg and the hazard it posed. LeftC, any illumination here. And I fully understand the liability pickle jar I've opened here - sorry.

Pat

[Left C]

I've allways been told to shy away from reg's that have been used with flamables (acetylene in this case). Is that not so?

PatWhat was the reasoning behind it? It would be nice to know for future reference :)As a general rule, I would not use any regulator that has been used with a toxic gas. Flammable gas is toxic as far as I'm concerned.

New regulators built for a toxic gas shouldn't pose a problem if the other specs are inline.

If a regulator has stainless steel diaphragms, it may be OK because the gas flashes off of it rather quickly. Anwar had some Victor HPT272's for sale a while back. These can be used with flammable gases, but I don't know if they were or not.

These are just my general rules that I go by. I've never used a regulator that has been used with a flammable gas or a toxic gas. So, I just have no experience with them to go into any more detail.

[Left C]

Never really asked till now. I can't remember who or when. I just remember being told reg's previously using CO2, O2, inerts (Nitrogen and such), and nobles (Helium, Argon, etc.) were all OK - volitiles were not. Most likely the remote possibility of a pocket of the gas remaining in the reg and the hazard it posed. LeftC, any illumination here. And I fully understand the liability pickle jar I've opened here - sorry.

Pat

I just saw this post, Pat. I am not liable either. These are random thoughts because you asked. I have not done any testing on this matter and I still do not recommend using any regulators that were used with flammable gases.

Concerning the pocket of gas left in it; you could just install the CGA-320 nut and nipple on the regulator and then connect it to your CO2 cylinder. Open the cylinder and regulator so that any residuals are blown out.

Like I mentioned, SS diaphragm models may work, but I don't know. Also, concerning regulators' diaphragms made with other materials; I don't know how or if there is any bonding like hydrogen bonding, Van Der Waals forces or any other force involved that may keep the gas from completely flashing off.

There are so many regulators that we can use that I would not even bother with these flammable gas regulators.

[rockhoe14er]

i got a victor two stage regulator that was once used for hydrogen. I ended up just getting it rebuilt and it works like a charm. From what i have researched the problem with hydrogen regulators is that hydrogen is a corrosive gas to some of the rubber parts in the regulator so if you get a second hand one you will probably have to rebuild it.

[pat w]

I wouldn't have mentioned it if I hadn't seen "Acetylene" on the gage in his photo. Didn't know if anyone else noticed it. Didn't feel right just letting it pass.

Pat

[Matt F.]

I built a regulator that was used with carbon monoxide...lol
Oxygen is flammable/explosive.

Generally I agree with Left C on this issue. Just use common sense. When in doubt, check to see what the regulator is used for by looking up the CGA fitting.

Common sense.

[reybie]

Thanks for the input. Good information to know.

[Matt F.]

I just picked up these babies:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/1-28-2011/1-28-11010.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/1-28-2011/1-28-11013.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/1-28-2011/1-28-11014.jpg

All ready for CO2

[Matt F.]

concoa 212 fitted w/ cga 320
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/1-28-2011/1-28-11006.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/1-28-2011/1-28-11005.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/1-28-2011/1-28-11007.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/1-28-2011/1-28-11008.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/1-28-2011/1-28-11009.jpg

[Left C]

... Oxygen is flammable/explosive. .... Oxygen supports combustion, but pure oxygen doesn't burn. It is non-reactive when kept by itself. It does support the burning of other substances. As we know, mix it with acetylene, gasoline, hydrogen, etc and you can get quite a bang. It is really classified as an accelerator.

Since oxygen isn't a poisonous gas at all, I would recommend using an O2 regulator for our use if its pressure specs are in our range.

[Matt F.]

Oxygen supports combustion, but pure oxygen doesn't burn. It is non-reactive when kept by itself. It does support the burning of other substances. As we know, mix it with acetylene, gasoline, hydrogen, etc and you can get quite a bang. It is really classified as an accelerator.

Since oxygen isn't a poisonous gas at all, I would recommend using an O2 regulator for our use if its pressure specs are in our range.

werd DSR bretheren. ;)
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem03/chem03291.htm

looks like an strong oxidizer, which is needed for combustion.
My rule of thumb is to find a regulator that has not been exposed to corrosive gasses. A new corrosive gas regulator, like my SGt 500, is fine. Would I buy a used one...nah. The carbon monoxide regulaor was even okay.
Just stay away from toxic and corrosive gasses.

[Left C]

werd DSR bretheren. ;)
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem03/chem03291.htm

looks like an strong oxidizer, which is needed for combustion.
My rule of thumb is to find a regulator that has not been exposed to corrosive gasses. A new corrosive gas regulator, like my SGT 500, is fine. Would I buy a used one...nah. The carbon monoxide regulator was even okay.
Just stay away from toxic and corrosive gasses.Someone told me that all gases flash out of a regulator body fairly quickly. This means that the ones used with "bad" stuff are usable for our use after a short period of time. This is something that I would not support nor tell people to do this. I just don't fully believe their comment.

This is why, like you, I suggest the same things.

With a regulator with SS diaphragms, one may be more lenient, but I won't tell anyone to do it.

[Matt F.]

Here is a new How-To (Swagelok Tube Fittings)
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings

[Matt F.]

I documented my conversion from JBJ bubble counter to Swagelok tube fitting:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8227-DSR-Total-Conversion-from-JBJ-bubble-counter-to-Swagelok-Tube-Fitting

[soundgy]

Thank you so much for this thread! I still don't know what I am doing and too scared to hit the "Buy" button, but I am getting closer. The closer I get to understanding how to accomplish my build, which you have posted a comment about already, I suddenly find myself realizing that I missed an important part. I understand MPT/NPT/FPT fittings now, I think. I can't find any used Victor regulators matching the numbers you have suggested yet, so I might have to buy a new one.

One of my concerns is I will be putting a 20# tank in a room and running low pressure lines to remote tanks. I have been told I need to put the bubble counters and needle valves on the tank end and not the regulator end. Can you confirm if this is an issue or not? I understand the convenience of having the bubble counter next to the tank, but is it really necessary when doing such slow modifications to the BPS settings?

Also, I noticed you commented on "crack pressure" for check valves and "back pressure" on ceramic discs. If I am using manifolds to split the working pressure outlet on my regulator, am I multiplying each "cracking" pressure?

I obviously still have much to learn and don't mind doing the legwork and research, but I feel I have kind of stumbled and need a point in the right direction.

Any help you can provide, even search terms, I would appreciate it greatly.

Thanks,

Matt

[Matt F.]

Thank you so much for this thread! I still don't know what I am doing and too scared to hit the "Buy" button, but I am getting closer. The closer I get to understanding how to accomplish my build, which you have posted a comment about already, I suddenly find myself realizing that I missed an important part. I understand MPT/NPT/FPT fittings now, I think. I can't find any used Victor regulators matching the numbers you have suggested yet, so I might have to buy a new one.

One of my concerns is I will be putting a 20# tank in a room and running low pressure lines to remote tanks. I have been told I need to put the bubble counters and needle valves on the tank end and not the regulator end. Can you confirm if this is an issue or not? I understand the convenience of having the bubble counter next to the tank, but is it really necessary when doing such slow modifications to the BPS settings?

Also, I noticed you commented on "crack pressure" for check valves and "back pressure" on ceramic discs. If I am using manifolds to split the working pressure outlet on my regulator, am I multiplying each "cracking" pressure?

I obviously still have much to learn and don't mind doing the legwork and research, but I feel I have kind of stumbled and need a point in the right direction.

Any help you can provide, even search terms, I would appreciate it greatly.

Thanks,

Matt

Hi, Matt-

Glad this thread has helped a bit. In your situation, I would run a "D" gauge regulator, a single solenoid, and multiple needle valves. Fabco is comming out with an inexpensive 1/8" npt version of their NV-55 unit, which would be great on a manifold type set-up.

The needle valve can be connected to the manifold, which is connected to the solenoid and regulator.
Run co2 resistant (pressure resistant) lines to each tank. I use ADA glass bubble counters on the tank side to:
1) insure that gas is flowing
2) eyeball how much gas is entering my tanks.

With the dropchecker/bubble counter combo, you can easily get into the ballpark and keep an eye on things as the system ages. The drop checker is a good diagnostic tool for the health of your co2 system. Is teh gas going where it needs to go and at the correct speed? You can answer this question with a bubble counter. I'd stay away from JBJs. I had one fail. Check valve went out. An in-line like the ADA is teh way to go, imo.

I'd also buy new if you can. Fewer headaches. There is no real way to tell how well an ebay used regulator performs prior to buying it and testing it.

With a new regulator, all the questions are answered. The unit works and it is in perfect condition. You are covered by a manufacturer's warranty to boot. Why build/invest in a shaky foundation (used regulator) when you can afford a new one?

If you need part numbers or places to buy a new regulator, just let me know.

If you are running more than one tank, I would consider getting a regulator with a C, D, E gauge rather than an A or B.

[Matt F.]

Just added this reference (for those of you who want to build your 90* or vts250 series post body with swagelok parts):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8332-Basic-Swagelok-Parts-needed-for-90*-and-VTS-Builds?p=62668#post62668

[Matt F.]

Important update on Swagelok tube adapters:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings?p=62777#post62777

[BeachBum2012]

Quick question for you fine folks.

I just bought a 7-0155 like the one in post #77. That builds just like the VTS253 model right?

I'm hoping I can get this guy up and running soon and I'd be completely lost if it wasn't for reading through the threads here for the last couple of weeks. You guys are great.

Thanks,
Brian

[Left C]

That's correct, BeachBum2012. That's a good choice for a regulator. As you know, Gerryd's build is more of the same: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8190-Gerryd-s-regulator-build-thread

[BeachBum2012]

That's correct, BeachBum2012. That's a good choice for a regulator. As you know, Gerryd's build is more of the same: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8190-Gerryd-s-regulator-build-thread

I read through that as well. Thanks.

I'm tinking about going a slightly different route using a Clippard Mouse and Vabco valve. Any thoughts on a setup like that?

[Matt F.]

congrats! as Left C says, that's a good choice. I actually had one (post 77) as my back-up.
Iin addition to gerryd's thread, I also have the part numbers and some tips here:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8332-Basic-Swagelok-Parts-needed-for-90*-and-VTS-Builds

[Left C]

... I'm tinking about going a slightly different route using a Clippard Mouse and Vabco valve. Any thoughts on a setup like that?

I haven't used a Clippard mouse solenoid. I wouldn't use the mouse because they have the tiny #10-32 threads. Whatever screws into it can easily be broken off. If you are more careful than me, you could make the #10-32 Fabco and the #10-32 mouse work.

Clippard does have 2021 high flow mouse solenoids that have 1/8" NPT ports, but I think that they are 3-way solenoids. They retail for around $25. Some could be two way. My catalog is old and the web site isn't very detailed. You may want to call Clippard and ask them if they are 2-way or 3-way and if they have 1/8" NPT intake and exhaust ports. You might be able to make the 3-way mouse work. You could ask.

[BeachBum2012]

I did do a little more research and I think I'm going to go with the Burkett and the new Fabco valve with the 1/8" NPT ports when it comes out for now. I've still got a few idea running around for those little mouse valves though. When I come up with something I'll be sure to post it up here.

Thanks again.

[Left C]

That's good that you are going with the 1/8" threads.

I've broken quite a few #10-32 parts during a very short period of time that I got away from them. It's almost like trying to connect two or three parts together with a cooked spaghetti noodle and not breaking it when you move it around. It takes a good bit of "beef" to break 1/8" parts. Or, in my case ... it's "pork."

[BeachBum2012]

Yeah. I deal with easy to break stuff all day at work. I want this to be fun time.

That mouse valves just looks so cool. Its really too bad they don't make one with NPT ports.

[Left C]

... That mouse valves just looks so cool. Its really too bad they don't make one with NPT ports.I did mention to you that the model 2021 has 1/8" NPT ports in post #72.

[Matt F.]

That's good that you are going with the 1/8" threads.

I've broken quite a few #10-32 parts during a very short period of time that I got away from them. It's almost like trying to connect two or three parts together with a cooked spaghetti noodle and not breaking it when you move it around. It takes a good bit of "beef" to break 1/8" parts. Or, in my case ... it's "pork."



LOOL! bring the noodles out!

[BeachBum2012]

I did mention to you that the model 2021 has 1/8" NPT ports in post #72.

I just checked that one out. Its a bit confusing. Maybe I'll get one just to mess with and see if I can get it working.

[Matt F.]

Project SGT(2):
Picked this one up from a good friend:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/SGT2/SGT2001.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/SGT2/SGT2002.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/SGT2/SGT2003.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/SGT2/SGT2004.jpg

This is how you can tell if it's a stainless regulator (see back of gauges):
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/SGT2/SGT2005.jpg

Ready for a build my way (all kosher/stainless and clean):
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/SGT2/SGT2006.jpg

I'm going to replace these gauges with stainless center gauges.
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/SGT2/SGT2007.jpg

[Left C]

Project SGT(2):
Picked this one up from a good friend ...I'll bet I know who it was. It looks like one of Anwar's regulator builds.

[Matt F.]

I'll bet I know who it was. It looks like one of Anwar's regulator builds.

I have a feeling you know who it belonged to..LOL
Yeah, Anwar did a good job. I'm going to make it a true stainless unit like I did my first one. Gonna get a new model sticker (see your PMs) to replace the damaged one, install a stainless cga 320 nut/nipple/filter, all stainless post body, stainless burkert and stainless ideal valve. I'm also replacing the gauges to stainless center units. the ones on the older SGTs are black (maybe iron), and they corrode easily. The new gauges have a stainless center, too. The high pressure gauge is stuck also at about 10-20 psi. If you ever need part number for gauges, let me know. I can get stainless gauges, chrome plated brass gauges, and brass replacement victor gauges.

I'm going to do a major write up with this one covering everything from wiring a stainless burkert to installing a stainless steel in-port filter, to building the post body, etc. Everything will be covered in one thread with tons of pics!

[Left C]

If I would of known that you wanted a stainless steel CGA-320, I would of sent you one ( I have several.) and pulled off the chrome CGA-320 and kept it. I paid $10 extra for it.

[Matt F.]

If I would of known that you wanted a stainless steel CGA-320, I would of sent you one ( I have several.) and pulled off the chrome CGA-320 and kept it. I paid $10 extra for it.

I can send the chrome plated brass cga and the post body back to you if you would like. I'll send the model sticker back to you in a separate envelope so it doesn't get messed up.

[Left C]

I can send the chrome plated brass cga and the post body back to you if you would like. I'll send the model sticker back to you in a separate envelope so it doesn't get messed up.

Great! Let me know how much to send you for these parts.

[Matt F.]

Great! Let me know how much to send you for these parts.
Nah, it's on the house. ;)

[Matt F.]

New SGt build:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8516-How-to-Build-an-SGT-500-(2)?p=64375#post64375

BTw, I just purchased an SGT160D Victor reg.

[Matt F.]

Just to update this thread, I have reduced my collection down to 3 regulators.

Wilson/Victor SGT500
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/7-12-11%20update/7-12-reg002.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/7-12-11%20update/7-12-reg001.jpg

Merck/Victor HPT500
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/7-12-11%20update/7-12-reg003.jpg

Victor SGT500
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/7-12-11%20update/7-12-reg005.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/7-12-11%20update/7-12-reg004.jpg

[Left C]

Nice! Only SS/Chrome, no Brass. So, you have the 0 to 60 psi that I sent you and two 0 to 200 psi models now??

Here's a nice Ford truck (http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=IA0711-112328&utm_source=delivra&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=IA0711_F152) for sale for you. It'll look good with your CO2 systems.

[Matt F.]

Nice! Only SS/Chrome, no Brass. So, you have the 0 to 60 psi that I sent you and two 0 to 200 psi models now??

Here's a nice Ford truck (http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=IA0711-112328&utm_source=delivra&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=IA0711_F152) for sale for you. It'll look good with your CO2 systems.

Yes. Two SGTs and one HPT. One of the SGT500s is a "D" regulator with a "B" gauge. The other (the one you sent me is the true "B"). The HPT500 is a "D" regulator.
Damn, that's a nice truck! :)

[Matt F.]

I wrote this over at TPT. Common sense, but you can see how crucial it can be...

Re: Safety Warning for users of JBJ and link bubble counters:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/143944-safety-warning-those-you-using-jbj.html

[Beachkrazd]

From post #23:
If you don't want a bubble counter, you can install a hose barb. This is what I recommend b/c they lock the hose on the barb:
Brass Hose barb adapter with locking nut mechanism(these two parts work together)
B-400-1-2
B-405-2
------------------------

I need some advice for selecting the appropriate tube fitting. I would like to use an in-line glass bubble counter with at least 2 in-line check valves for redundancy (before & after bubble counter), so I assume I need a tube fitting attached directly to the Ideal needle valve (V52-1-12)? (Please let me know if this will work or not.) Will the B-6MO-1-2 (http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?show_results=Y&item=20b6dcb5-5a04-42f1-9df7-a5d3fd3672c3) tube fitting attach directly to the V52-1-12 & standard 4/6mm tubing? I just saw from the thread posted below that I would also need B-6M5-4M (http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=B-6M5-4M), right?

Many thanks to Matt for posting this guideline! I will be following the directions closely as I set up my first regulator.

EDIT: I see in the thread link below that I will need B-6M5-4M to use with the B-6MO-1-2 fitting. I guess the directions for the SS-6MO-1-2 are the same for the brass version?
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings

[Matt F.]

From post #23:
If you don't want a bubble counter, you can install a hose barb. This is what I recommend b/c they lock the hose on the barb:
Brass Hose barb adapter with locking nut mechanism(these two parts work together)
B-400-1-2
B-405-2
------------------------

I need some advice for selecting the appropriate tube fitting. I would like to use an in-line glass bubble counter with at least 2 in-line check valves for redundancy (before & after bubble counter), so I assume I need a tube fitting attached directly to the Ideal needle valve (V52-1-12)? (Please let me know if this will work or not.) Will the B-6MO-1-2 (http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?show_results=Y&item=20b6dcb5-5a04-42f1-9df7-a5d3fd3672c3) tube fitting attach directly to the V52-1-12 & standard 4/6mm tubing? I just saw from the thread posted below that I would also need B-6M5-4M (http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=B-6M5-4M), right?

Many thanks to Matt for posting this guideline! I will be following the directions closely as I set up my first regulator.

EDIT: I see in the thread link below that I will need B-6M5-4M to use with the B-6MO-1-2 fitting. I guess the directions for the SS-6MO-1-2 are the same for the brass version?
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings

I think you are smart to opt out on the JBJ-style bubble counter. The check valve will fail at some point...it's just a matter of when.
I use ADA in-line glass bubble counters (not the beetle counter, but the simple ADA glass bubble counter). I also use the ADA gray Parts kit per ADA's instructions. This comes with a high quality plastic check valve which is to be placed underneath the bubble counter.

These part numbers DO NOT work with 4mm/6mm tubing:
B-400-1-2
B-405-2

I have removed these from post # 23. I don't want anyone to be confused.

ALso I have removed the Bigway NPT part numbers. Bigway charges way too much for shipping and the parts are of a lesser quality. I recommend and use Swagelok brass and stainless parts.

If you want to save money, take a trip to your local ace hardware. they usually have a pipe fitting section.

This is the correct part number for 4mm/6mm tube adapters with a male 1/8" npt thread (which screws into the ideal needle valve or a check valve).
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings[/QUOTE]

You can use a B-2c2-1/3 or SS-2c2-1/3 Swagelok check valve which will sit between the ideal valve and your tube adapter.

Hope this helps.

[Matt F.]

I just converted both my regs to the SS-6M0-7-2 tubing adapters. This deletes some unecessary parts and shortens the whole post body.
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9103-Conversion-from-Swagelok-SS-6M0-1-2-(male-NPT)-to-SS-6M0-7-2-(female-NPT)?p=72227#post72227

[Matt F.]

Here is an updated list of DIY regulator build links:
Here is an updated list of DIY links:

How to build a VTS253B-320:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7785-How-to-build-a-Victor-VTS253b-320

How to build a Victor VTS 253A-1993:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7787-How-to-build-a-Victor-VTS253a-1993

How to wire your own Burkert type 6011 solenoid:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7783-How-to-wire-a-Burkert-type-6011-solenoid

How to install a CGA 320 on a used Victor HPT 500:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7786-How-to-change-a-CGA-on-a-used-regulator

How to prep a used Victor HPT270 for a post body kit:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7788-How-to-prep-an-Victor-HPT-270-for-a-post-body

Why gas flow direction is important when installing a Burkert solenoid:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7864-Burkert-Solenoids-gas-flow-direction-is-important-in-preventing-leaks

How to build a Victor SGT 500: (90* output regulator)
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7879-How-to-build-a-Victor-SGT-500-Regulator
Happy reading.

How to adjust your Ideal Valve:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7971-How-to-adjust-your-Ideal-Valve

How to use Swagelok Tube Fittings:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings

DSR: Total Conversion From JBJ BUbble Counter to Swagelok Tube Adapter:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8227-DSR-Total-Conversion-from-JBJ-bubble-counter-to-Swagelok-Tube-Fitting

Gerryd's DSR Build:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8190-Gerryd-s-regulator-build-thread

Swagelok part numbers for two regulator configurations (regulator to tube adaper):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8332-Basic-Swagelok-Parts-needed-for-90*-and-VTS-Builds?p=62668#post62668

How to build an SGT 500 (2):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8516-How-to-Build-an-SGT-500-(2)?p=64375#post64375

Rainydazs' regulator build (GPT270):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8538-rainydazs-s-Regulator-Build

Samuel's VTS252D-350 Build:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8595-Samuel-s-VTS252D-350-Build?p=65021#post65021

My two SGT500s:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8632-My-two-SGT500s-(thanks-to-Left-C)

Regulator Body Thickness?
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8671-Regulator-Body-Thickness?p=65564#post65564

Conversion from Swagelok tube adapter SS-6M0-1-2 (male) to SS-6M0-7-2 (female):
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9103-Conversion-from-Swagelok-SS-6M0-1-2-(male-NPT)-to-SS-6M0-7-2-(female-NPT)?p=72227#post72227

Where to buy CGA NUTS NIPPLES AND FILTERS for your DIY project:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9964-Where-to-buy-CGA-nuts-nipples-(stems)-and-filters-onliine-for-your-DIY-projects

Swagelok's online pipe fitting catalog with pictures!
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9867-DIYers-Swagelok-s-Pipe-Fitting-Catalog?p=80678#post80678

Updated tube adapters on my SGT500s:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/9103-Conversion-from-Swagelok-SS-6M0-1-2-(male-NPT)-to-SS-6M0-7-2-(female-NPT)?p=72227#post72227