How to wire a Burkert type 6011 solenoid

[Matt F.]

Due to a lack of references on the internet, most people cringe at the idea of wiring their own CO2 solenoids. I hope to show with 50+ pictures that wiring your own solenoid isn't something to be scared of. The shop where I ordered this solenoid offered to wire it for me for the cost of $20. Save yourself the money and DIY! :D

Here is how the package came today:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY001.jpg

The packing slip w/ part numbers (MMMMM BUNA-N):
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY002.jpg

Aside from the box that I will show you with the solenoid, this type 2506 DIN connector came wrapped up in its own plastic bag. This is the thing we will wire and plug into the solenoid:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY003.jpg

This is what is in the plastic type 2506 DIN bag:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY009.jpg

Here is the way the actual solenoid comes:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY004.jpg

Here is the solenoid once outside of the box:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY005.jpg

[Matt F.]

Here are some pics of the different angles of the solenoid:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY006.jpg

This is where the type 2506 DIn connects once the power cord has been installed...a gasket will sit in between:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY007.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY008.jpg

Shifting the focus back to the Type 2506 DIN, lets start by disassebling the unit:

The 2506 comes with a cap on the back. You will need to remove this in order to get the connecting points (where you connect the power chord) into position.

Here is the location of the cap:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY010.jpg

I'm removing it!
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY011.jpg

Here is how it looks when the cap has been removed and we look down into the 2506:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY012.jpg

[Matt F.]

Now, if you look at the last picture, you will notice a green circuit board-looking thing. This is something we will have to remove from the black plastic body/case but only after we remove the cord pressure screw, seal, and crush washer from the back of the DIN unit:

To do this unscrew counter clockwise:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY014.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY015.jpg

It should end up looking like this (there are 3 pieces that come off once your unscrew the pressure srew (screw, seal, crushwasher): ***In these pictures, the screw, seal, and washer are attached, so it all looks like one piece***
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY016.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY017.jpg

Here is what it looks like down the cord tunnel after you remove the nut, seal, and crush washer:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY018.jpg

[Matt F.]

Once we have everything disassembled, we need to remove the green circuit board looking thing from the housing. To do this, use a SMALL flathead screwdriver and gently pry up inside of the black plastic housing on the side where the cord attaches.

Again, going back to this picture, you see where the cord tunnel meets the circuit board? Insert the flathead screwdriver just inside the black housing between the cord tunnel and the metal connectors on the circuit board.
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY012.jpg

Pry up slightly, the circuit board will pull out with little effort.

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY019.jpg

This is where you connect your 18/3 gauge power cord:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY021.jpg

When you pry out this circuit board, you'll notice a black plastic cradle that connects to the unit. You can take that black cradle off temporarily:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY022.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY023.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY024.jpg

[Matt F.]

Before you do any connecting, trim the cord wires to the correct length (I kept these long to make it easier to photograph) and feed the wire end of the power cord through the DIN body (through the power cord tube). It should look like this after you're done (obviosuly the wires should only be .5-1" long--I am showing lots of excess wire):

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY030.jpg

Note the position of the crush washer, seal, and pressure screw:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY031.jpg

(I ended up having to cut the excess wire and re-strip them prior to install. I left the wires long in order to ease the picture taking process).

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY032.jpg

Notice on the circuit board the (+) (-) and (earth) symbols:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY029.jpg

[Matt F.]

It's time to connect:

For wiring:
Green = Earth/Ground
Black = Hot/Live (+)
White = Neg (-)

Here is what it should look like. Insert the tips of the wires, then tighten the screw down to hold them in place:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/10-7b002.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/10-7b001.jpg
Next add the black plastic bracket back on the circuit board:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY037.jpg

Slide the whole thing back inside the DIN plastic housing:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY038.jpg

Depending on the power cord, the wires leading into the DIN connector can be too long. I removed about an inch and re-installed. I used regular wire cutting pliers and a razor blade. Only strip about 1/2 cm of insulation off (at most) the tip of the wires to prevent shorts.

snipped and reinstalled:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY040.jpg

[Matt F.]

Now you're in the home stretch, tighten down (by hand) the crush washer, seal, and pressure screw on the power cord side. Screw it in the cord tunnel:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY041.jpg

Looking back at the solenoid, look at the 2506 DIn male connector. This is where the 2506 DIN will connect. You will, however, place the provided (white) gasket inbetween the solenoid and the DIN.

See pics:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY042.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY043.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY044.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY045.jpg

Now it's time to use the provided screw:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY046.jpg

[Matt F.]

Here is the way it looks:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY047.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY048.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY049.jpg

Once everything is buttoned up, plug it in and listen to that nice click. If you hear the click, you're good to go!

Here are the specs on the DIN plastic bag for wiring:
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY050.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/Burkert%20DIY/BurkertDIY051.jpg

[inkslinger]

Great job nice pic's an info, Thanks , I will be getting mine at the end of this month can't wait!!

[Matt F.]

Thanks, inkslinger--

I hope this helps calm peoples' nerves...it's really not that hard. The hardest part for me was trimming the power cord to the proper length. I cut about an inch or an inch and a half off, which left me about 1/2" to restrip. I just used wire cutters and a razor blade to restrip the wires...

Tools needed:

tiny flat head screwdriver (to pry the circuit board up and undo the wire connection screws)
wire cutter and razor blade or wire stripper tool (either will work to take off the excess on the power cord).

[pat w]

First ... Excelent how-to. First rate step-by-step illustrations. Most everyone should be able to follow along easily.

Just one little nit to pick.

You left a little too much wire exposed at the terminals. As a general rule the exposed wire if broken and bent shouldn't be able to make contact with a similar borken wire from the next terminal. This will rule out the posibility of a cat's whisker short during final assembly. Best practices are to cut and strip at lengths to insure the insulation just fails to make contact with the terminal when the wire is fully inserted.

Saw some of your other How-to's on regulator builds ... all very well done, Thanks.

Pat

[Matt F.]

First ... Excelent how-to. First rate step-by-step illustrations. Most everyone should be able to follow along easily.

Just one little nit to pick.

You left a little too much wire exposed at the terminals. As a general rule the exposed wire if broken and bent shouldn't be able to make contact with a similar borken wire from the next terminal. This will rule out the posibility of a cat's whisker short during final assembly. Best practices are to cut and strip at lengths to insure the insulation just fails to make contact with the terminal when the wire is fully inserted.

Saw some of your other How-to's on regulator builds ... all very well done, Thanks.

Pat

Criticism noted and well received. Thanks. I actually trimmed the wires to the proper length and re-threaded the wires after I took the pics. I had a ton of excess wire. I figured it would be easier to take pics that way. I must have trimmed about an inch or so.

See below for the new pics...I didn't even think to mention about the potential for shorting, etc...Doh!

[Matt F.]

Here is the way the wires look now. This is my first time, so bear with me...LoL
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/10-7b002.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/10-7b001.jpg

[pat w]

Here is the way the wires look now. This is my first time, so bear with me...LoL
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/10-7b002.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss91/Matt_021/10-7b001.jpg

Looks great!

If you got a pair of steel toe shoes and safety glasses you're hired.

Pat

[Matt F.]

Pat,

Have the composite toe boots (shock resistant) and the glasses...I actually should have worn them the first time I plugged the solenoid in..LMAO

-Matt

[inkslinger]

Can a computer power cord work with this plug ,
My clippard i use a 16g with no problem
But this I got a a 3/18awg and can not go pass the screw cap with washer
But with the computer power cord I can go all the way in 3/18awg {csa type ll81924 svt }??

[Matt F.]

Can a computer power cord work with this plug ,
My clippard i use a 16g with no problem
But this I got a a 3/18awg and can not go pass the screw cap with washer
But with the computer power cord I can go all the way in 3/18awg {csa type ll81924 svt }??

An 18/3 gauge cord should fit perfectly. See other thread. They sell them for like $2 for a 6' cord. I linked a source.

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7864-Burkert-Solenoids-gas-flow-direction-is-important-in-preventing-leaks?p=57928#post57928

[inkslinger]

Thanks, inkslinger--

I hope this helps calm peoples' nerves...it's really not that hard. The hardest part for me was trimming the power cord to the proper length. I cut about an inch or an inch and a half off, which left me about 1/2" to restrip. I just used wire cutters and a razor blade to restrip the wires...

Tools needed:

tiny flat head screwdriver, wire cutters and a razor blade and maybe some type of sandpaper or file.

You sure made it look an sound so easy, I reorder my cord and everything went easy {all right!! 5 min. job!!! YEA RIGHT!!} 2 hour later , My screw nut easy to pull back but will not go back to tighten . I had to sand down around the wire to get the screw nut close enough to catch the thread and tighten it down!!!
Remind Me just order one all ready with power cord!!!!


:o

[Matt F.]

You sure made it look an sound so easy, I reorder my cord and everything went easy {all right!! 5 min. job!!! YEA RIGHT!!} 2 hour later , My screw nut easy to pull back but will not go back to tighten . I had to sand down around the wire to get the screw nut close enough to catch the thread and tighten it down!!!
Remind Me just order one all ready with power cord!!!!
:o

Dang, that sucks. I wonder why the 18/3 gauge cord didn't slide in...hmmm
In that case a little lube might be called for...everything is better with lube.. :/
Mineral oil would be okay. Sand paper! that's craziness.
With trimming, it would only take me about 10 minutes to do a clean job.
The first time took longer of course.
I'll be wiring a clippard tomorrow, so I may take pics and do a write up...

[herns]

Matt,

Just had my 6011 wired up by just following your photos!

The Burkert I got has the black plastic cradle fix to the unit. Its a little hard when I place back the circuit board in because the cord is getting in the way of the cradle. I made it with a little patience.

I bought 3 CPU cable 18/3 cords on ebay for just about $4.50 each shipped. It works perfectly.

[Matt F.]

Matt,

Just had my 6011 wired up by just following your photos!

The Burkert I got has the black plastic cradle fix to the unit. Its a little hard when I place back the circuit board in because the cord is getting in the way of the cradle. I made it with a little patience.

I bought 3 CPU cable 18/3 cords on ebay for just about $4.50 each shipped. It works perfectly.

Glad it helped! That's what it here for...to prevent others stress and anxiety...lol

[inkslinger]

Hey Matt
I just got my 10lb fill an waited around 6hr so that the tank would get to room temp. I hook up my regulator to Mazzie to see how it perform , I was quit impress with the fog like bubbles I was getting, I think it has to be due with a large high pressure pump to get a fine mist of co2.
I had it run for a couple of hours and I notice that the Burkert solenoid valve was hot! I thought this model was to run cooler than the Clippard solenoid valve That is the reason why I bought this model ? Where the wire are located was warm but the other side was hot to touch? The only thing I did was rotated the cord and Dim to the side and have the cord facing down word

[Matt F.]

Hey Matt
I just got my 10lb fill an waited around 6hr so that the tank would get to room temp. I hook up my regulator to Mazzie to see how it perform , I was quit impress with the fog like bubbles I was getting, I think it has to be due with a large high pressure pump to get a fine mist of co2.
I had it run for a couple of hours and I notice that the Burkert solenoid valve was hot! I thought this model was to run cooler than the Clippard solenoid valve That is the reason why I bought this model ? Where the wire are located was warm but the other side was hot to touch? The only thing I did was rotated the cord and Dim to the side and have the cord facing down word

Don't worry about the warmth/heat. It's normal. It will not affect longevity or performance of your burkert. All mine run warm.
People at other sites have implanted the idea somehow that solenoids are to stay cool. This is incorrect according to all the stuff I've read. Direction of your DIN does not matter. It's made to rotate 90* in any direction.

Coils generate heat.

[inkslinger]

All mine run warm.
Direction of your DIN does not matter. It's made to rotate 90* in any direction.

Coils generate heat.

It feels the same as my Clippard and how about the dim and cord up or down word?

[Matt F.]

see my response on in the other thread. Heat doesn't mean anything other than the fact that the solenoid coil is electrified.

http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7864-Burkert-Solenoids-gas-flow-direction-is-important-in-preventing-leaks?p=59924#post59924

[non_compliance]

Everything with wiring my solenoid (clippard) went smoothly... but unfortunately when I cracked open my power cord, there is three wires... green, blue, and red. I figure the green is ground, but I do not know which is positive and negative for the blue/red... does it matter with AC? I don't want to damage my solenoid.


thanks.



edit: well I looked up color coding and maybe I have BROWN and blue instead of red.. in which case, the chart says green is ground, and blue is neutral... so I hooked the blue to the (-) and the 'brown' to the (+)... plugged it in and *click... it worked... so we'll see what happens I guess....

[Matt F.]

Hi, there. What kind of cord do you have and where is your location. That may have something to do with the difference in colors. Are you in the USA?

In the US:

black is hot
white is not
green is earth.

The colors differ from country to country, I believe.

[non_compliance]

I'm in the US... I used this guide: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_2/2.html And the second table down for the UK is what I was basing my decision on.... I have no idea why I would have a UK cord... but I have bought computer parts from all over the place, so who knows.


IT is a computer power cord. One that plugs into the back of your desktop.

Definately a green(yellow stripe), blue, and brown wire in there... so hopefully I'm correct! :\

The way I figured it is it probably doesn't matter all that much... like if you have something that doesn't have one fat prong on the plug... you can plug it in either way and it still works....

Then again, I don't do electrical and I broke this self imposed rule to wire this solenoid... hope there are no problems!

[Matt F.]

Those European cords are a different color.
That table you found looks like it's correct. thanks for contributing that!

[davesnothere]

Great thread, took me about 15 minutes to get mine assembled.

Thanks a bunch !

[Matt F.]

Great thread, took me about 15 minutes to get mine assembled.

Thanks a bunch !

:) glad it helped!

[GillesF]

What kind of wire did you use? I'm unable to find 5mm wire with grounding.

[Left C]

The Burkert solenoids use 18/3 power cords. This happens to be the same size power cord used on computers. You can cut the plugin section off of one and use this if you are unable to get one locally.

[GillesF]

It was a pain in the ass but is is working now. One side is completely leak free (I have a splitter), tomorrow I'll do the other side. Finally, my co2 system is almost complete :D

[Left C]

It was a pain in the ass but is is working now. One side is completely leak free (I have a splitter), tomorrow I'll do the other side. Finally, my co2 system is almost complete :DI'm glad that you have the solenoid working. Where did you get your power cord?

I know that your have been collecting parts for your regulator assembly for months now. The wait is almost over. :)

[GillesF]

I just bought an extension cord and cut it in half. The plug side is used for the solenoid and the other side will get a new plug so it can be used again.
I'm still thinking of a way to install my co2 system in a safe way, it tends to lean forwards due to the weight of the regulator.

[Left C]

That's a good idea for using the 18/3 extension cord!

I've found that 5# steel CO2 tanks will stand up without falling over, but the aluminum tanks need a retaining strap, bungee cord of some kind. There was one guy that cut a hole in his stand to hold the CO2 cylinder in place. I don't think that I would want to do that.

[GillesF]

I assembled everything but one side of the splitter is a bit loose, yet leak free (tested this with a Swagelok product). Should I redo that side or leave it as is?

[Left C]

That will have to be your call.

If I wasn't satisfied with my work, I would redo it.

[GillesF]

I redid the loosened part. Unfortunately, I noticed my solenoid won't shut off for some reason. The direction is A --> P because I have a German made regulator with the valves at the other side. Any idea why it would act like this? I'm so fed up with this CO2 system, each time there's something else wrong or broken or whatever.

[Left C]

... I noticed my solenoid won't shut off for some reason. ...You might have some trash in the solenoid keeping it from closing.


... The direction is A --> P because I have a German made regulator with the valves at the other side. ...This doesn't make any sense to me. The P side is the input side of the solenoid irregardless of the output location on the regulator. The regulator's output should be connected to the solenoid's input.

[GillesF]

Right, so my solenoids are actually installed backwards. I'm such a dumbass lol ...

[Matt F.]

Right, so my solenoids are actually installed backwards. I'm such a dumbass lol ...

Heck, I was a "dumbass," too. That's how this thread came about. LoL happens to the best of us. ;)

[GillesF]

I redid everything :D One last question: is it possible to install the large black part backwards so that the plug is at the P-A side?
(ex-factory the sticker on the black body is at the P-A side, I want it the other way)

*edit* Everything's working well! Now I just have to wait for my atomizer which should arrive next week.

[Left C]

Very good!

[Matt F.]

I redid everything :D One last question: is it possible to install the large black part backwards so that the plug is at the P-A side?
(ex-factory the sticker on the black body is at the P-A side, I want it the other way)

*edit* Everything's working well! Now I just have to wait for my atomizer which should arrive next week.

Yes, you can rotate that "black" part 90* in any direction.

[GillesF]

Allright, another problem. One side still leaks CO2, about 1 bubble every 20 seconds. Both solenoids are P-->A. Any idea what might cause the problem? The other side is working perfectly.

[Left C]

Allright, another problem. One side still leaks CO2, about 1 bubble every 20 seconds. Both solenoids are P-->A. Any idea what might cause the problem? The other side is working perfectly.Maybe this side isn't sealed properly somewhere. Is the leak on the input connection threaded port or the output connection threaded port or somewhere else?

You may probably end up taking this side apart and resealing it with either Teflon tape or a non-hardening pipe joint compound.

When are you going to quit screwing around with it and get it going? LOL!!!

[GillesF]

That's what I've been asking myself for the last 3 months lol ...

There is no leak, I've checked everything with a Swagelok leak tester (much better than soap by the way). I think it is more likely to do with my tubing/atomizer. Check out Barbarossa's post in this thread: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7864-Burkert-Solenoids-gas-flow-direction-is-important-in-preventing-leaks/page5

[Left C]

That's what I've been asking myself for the last 3 months lol ...I really can't say anything. I've been screwing around with setting up 2 aquariums for years now. Monsieur Slack comes to visit me often, it seems.


I think it is more likely to do with my tubing/atomizer. Check out Barbarossa's post in this thread: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7864-Burkert-Solenoids-gas-flow-direction-is-important-in-preventing-leaks/page5Would you mind going into a bit more detail?


There is no leak, I've checked everything with a Swagelok leak tester (much better than soap by the way). I've read that Swagelok's leak detector is very good. I use a leak detector made by Oatey that is available at Home Depot and other places here in the US. http://www.homedepot.com/buy/plumbing-plumbing-accessories-pipe-cement-primer-cleaner/oatey-8-oz-all-purpose-leak-detector-174856.html

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s320/Left_C/Oateyall-purposeleakdetector30209e8be40fa-a614-4269-aa26-43fbfc352808_300.jpg

[GillesF]

Well both my tubing and diffuser/atomizer are from AquaHK, just like Barbarossa's. Both sides are now "leaking" (i.e. co2 still coming through very slowly, not leaking at the outside) and it seems unlikely that both solenoids are faulty. So I assume it's either the tubing (which is the same on both sides) or the diffuser (on my nano)/atomizer (big tank)

[Left C]

What are you going to do about these leaks?

[GillesF]

I've sent an e-mail to Barbarossa and Bürkert. We'll see :)

[Left C]

Sometimes dealing with CO2 tubing fittings and the tubing can be quite funky. Some parts are made for 4mm/6mm tubing and some are made for ⅛"/¼". Then one company's 4mm/6mm tubing is different than another's 4mm/6mm. The same is true for ⅛"/¼" tubing. Like Clippard's ⅛"/¼" tubing is smaller in diameter than the Tygon Lab ⅛"/¼" tubing. Then you have silicone tubing that has thinner wall thicknesses than many other types of tubing. All of this can be a big headache! LOL!!!

One approach to avoid leaks is to get tight fitting tubing. Put the tubing into very hot water to soften it up and then put it on while it is still pliable.

[GillesF]

Great, I reconnected everything and now the pressure rises when the solenoid shuts off. I've had this problem before and had my regulator checked by the firm's engineers who couldn't find any problem with it. I'm doing something wrong but I have no idea what ...

[Left C]

Mine rise a little bit (a few psi) too when the solenoid shuts. This is normal.

I set my working pressure when the solenoid is open and not when it is closed. I'm sure that you can do it either way. This is just the way that I do it.

[Matt F.]

Mine rise a little bit (a few psi) too when the solenoid shuts. This is normal.

I set my working pressure when the solenoid is open and not when it is closed. I'm sure that you can do it either way. This is just the way that I do it.

Yeah, there's nothing wrong with a little psi rise after the solenoid shuts off at night. It's totally normal. No if your pressure goes up more than 10-15+ psi 15 minutes after the solenoid shuts off, then you're staring a rebuild in the face.

[GillesF]

I tested it and the low pressure went from 43psi to 52psi in more then half an hour. Is that normal?

Also I tested one of the solenoids separately. There was no CO2 in the system because I had shut off the tank. I then opened the tank with the solenoid shut of. Still, the solenoid would leak some co2 ...

WTF is going on :(

[GillesF]

I'm going to connect one of my solenoids to my old single stage regulator and check what it does. I'll then probably use my old single stage at a low bps in combination with liquid co2 to provide sufficient co2 nutrition in the tank without having the risk of an end-of-tank-dump.

[Matt F.]

I tested it and the low pressure went from 43psi to 52psi in more then half an hour. Is that normal?

Also I tested one of the solenoids separately. There was no CO2 in the system because I had shut off the tank. I then opened the tank with the solenoid shut of. Still, the solenoid would leak some co2 ...

WTF is going on :(

That's boarderline normal/abnormal. a jump in psi more than about 8 psi is not normal, but it could be the normal variance for that particular regulator. It's especially not normal 15-30 minutes after the solenoid shuts off. Does the psi continue to rise above 52 psi?
You prob still have teflon tape or some other contaminant preventing a full seal.

My victor regulator both jump about 3-5 psi when the solenoid shuts off (difference between static and open pressure). This is normal. The rise is immediate and the needle stays put.

[GillesF]

Allright, tested it on my cheap single stage regulator and I'm having the same problem. So I can safely assume it is not the regulator? There's no increase in pressure with this regulator though. The leak is still the same, very slow but noticeable.

[GillesF]

I think I've fixed the problem. I noticed that the O-ring wasn't well placed so I used a screwdriver to push it in the black part. Now, my atomizer isn't diffusing CO2 at night anymore. I do notice that the little bubble at the inside of the JBJ drop checker changes from time to time (after an hour orso) but I guess that's just left over CO2.

[Left C]

Do be sure to check your knock off JBJ style bubble counter for leaks from time to time especially where its brass hat meets the clear plastic cylinder threads. Sometimes silicon tape or a non-hardening Teflon based pipe joint compound will fix this seal. I've quit using mine. They are a pita.

[Matt F.]

Do be sure to check your knock off JBJ style bubble counter for leaks from time to time especially where its brass hat meets the clear plastic cylinder threads. Sometimes silicon tape or a non-hardening Teflon based pipe joint compound will fix this seal. I've quit using mine. They are a pita.

10-4. I dislike JBJ bubble counters for this reason.

[GillesF]

Yup, they have been tested for leaks. But my "solution" only worked for 1 day, now they are leaking again. Getting a bit tired of it ...
I've contacted Bürkert again (good online service by the way), will see if they know the solution.

[Lost Csr]

Wow. I have been away from this thread for a while.
Sorry Gilles that your having some many problems with your set up.

I have used my set up from Early Jun/July can not remember to Sept when my 2Kg tank finally emptied.
Never had any problems (except when I panic the first day I installed parts and had a leak, Thanks Left).

I hope it gets resolved for you.

[GillesF]

Is it possible that my problems are due to incorrect wiring? (like switching two cables)

[Left C]

Is it possible that my problems are due to incorrect wiring? (like switching two cables)What in the world is going on now? What is wrong?

I can't understand why you are having so much trouble. It is such a simple device. I'm very sorry, Gilles. You surely have to be disgusted.
1) Either it is wired correctly and it works or it is wired wrong and it doesn't. I do not know if you can wire it "backwards" and it will be open when it is supposed to be closed and closed when it is supposed to be open. Maybe you should double check the wiring.
2) Either it leaks or it doesn't. It can leak from more than one place. Are all your threads 1//8" NPT or are some G1/8" threads mixed in? That JBJ bubble counter can be a leaking fool. Maybe you should test it and every connection thoroughly. Crank up the working pressure if you have to so that you can check for leaks.
3) Either is works or it doesn't. If it doesn't, is it defective? Anything hindering it from operating correctly?
4) You found that you had it mounted in the reverse direction. Is there anything else wrong?
5) Those atomizers require higher pressures to operate, 30+ psi. Do you have your working pressure set high enough to work? Make sure the CO2 line is plumbed correctly and not leaking.
6) Because these atomizers require higher pressures, the CO2 tubing has to fit every component correctly so that it will not leak and so that it will not disconnect.

I'm just shooting in the dark because I do not know exactly what your problem is. I'm just offering some suggestions. Be sure to test each component thoroughly until you can determine exactly what is wrong. You are the one holding it and looking at it. It isn't us. It is up to you to find the defect(s).

[GillesF]

What in the world is going on now? What is wrong?

I can't understand why you are having so much trouble. It is such a simple device. I'm very sorry, Gilles. You surely have to be disgusted.
1) Either it is wired correctly and it works or it is wired wrong and it doesn't. I do not know if you can wire it "backwards" and it will be open when it is supposed to be closed and closed when it is supposed to be open. Maybe you should double check the wiring. It is working but it looks like both solenoids are always open. So maybe there's something wrong with the wiring?
2) Either it leaks or it doesn't. It can leak from more than one place. Are all your threads 1//8" NPT or are some G1/8" threads mixed in? That JBJ bubble counter can be a leaking fool. Maybe you should test it and every connection thoroughly. Crank up the working pressure if you have to so that you can check for leaks. Only Swagelok parts and everything NPT, I'm gonna test the regulator without the JBJ this weekend. I've already cranked up the pressure, still the same, no leaks at the outside (tested with Swagelok product)
3) Either is works or it doesn't. If it doesn't, is it defective? Anything hindering it from operating correctly? Not as far as I know. I've e-mailed Bürkert and the only thing they could say was that the solenoids "should work under the circumstances".
4) You found that you had it mounted in the reverse direction. Is there anything else wrong? I don't know what else could be wrong, except maybe the rubber ring but that's well in place now. Direction is P --> A
5) Those atomizers require higher pressures to operate, 30+ psi. Do you have your working pressure set high enough to work? Make sure the CO2 line is plumbed correctly and not leaking. Yes, the atomizers are working correctly, no leaks. What do you mean with "plumbed"? The problem is not not getting CO2 but having CO2 24/7 on.
6) Because these atomizers require higher pressures, the CO2 tubing has to fit every component correctly so that it will not leak and so that it will not disconnect. CO2 diffusion is working properly but I'll double check

I'm just shooting in the dark because I do not know exactly what your problem is. I'm just offering some suggestions. Be sure to test each component thoroughly until you can determine exactly what is wrong. You are the one holding it and looking at it. It isn't us. It is up to you to find the defect(s).

And yes, I'm pretty disgusted lol. I bought these solenoids because of their high quality and they simply don't work (while my cheapo version did work properly). I find it strange that both solenoids do not work so I'm pretty sure it must be something I did ...

[Left C]

I didn't know that this complaint was that they are open all the time. You've had both leaks and possible trash in your solenoid, haven't you?

Did some of the solenoids that you and Csr post have G1/8" ports? I remember something about this. ??

You can double check your wiring easy enough. You can even reverse the wiring and see it that fixes your problem. If not, you may have some trash in the solenoid. Then you need to blow it out.

Just use deductions to track your problem(s) down.

Can you take some pictures to show what is going on? They may or may not help us. They surely wouldn't hurt.

[GillesF]

Both of my solenoids are NPT and I'm using NPT Swagelok connections between (regulator -> solenoid -> needle valve), there's no leaking at the outside, the solenoids are simply still passing through CO2 even when they are shut off. They have been doing this since the beginning and I have cleaned the inside. How do you blow them out properly? Simply by blowing into them or do you use a compressor? I know you can remove the black body completely to clean the inside but the screws are so soft that I'm unable to remove them without damaging (and for some reason Bürkert used a rare screw type, some sort of "star")

[Left C]

I've never had to blow one out, so we'll have to wing it. Try this:
- turn up the working pressure to something like 40 psi or somewhere close to this or higher if you think that you need to
- close the knob on the CO2 cylinder
- unplug the solenoid
- remove the bubble counter/needle valve assembly
- plug in the solenoid to fully open it
- open the knob on the CO2 cylinder and let it blow for a few seconds then either turn off the CO2 cylinder knob or unplug the solenoid or do both
- repeat this step a couple of times

- Now close the knob on the CO2 cylinder and unplug the solenoid
- remove the solenoid and put it back on in the reverse direction
- now do the same steps to blow CO2 through it a few times

- close the knob on the CO2 cylinder and unplug the solenoid again
- remove the solenoid and put it back on in the correct direction with thread sealant
- again, blow it out a few times
- reassemble and test it

* the times that you have to completely remove the solenoid, you may want to blow some CO2 straight out of the regulator in case there is some trash there too
* be observant and look for anything that blows out
* do be very careful that you don't blow anything into your eyes and note that the gas is cold, be careful with it ... wear goggles and gloves

Does this make sense? When my solenoid turns off, the gas flows for a little while afterwards and then it stops. The flow doesn't stop abruptly.

[Matt F.]

Send the solenoid back to your local Burkert distributor. They will send it back to their engineers to play with until they find something wrong. Chances are nothing is wrong.
If you mess with the solenoid it might cancel your warranty.

[Left C]

Gilles sure is having a hard time with his installation. I just wonder what is wrong now??? He did have it installed backwards. It could be wired backwards or there is something hindering the solenoid from closing. Blowing it out wouldn't hurt. Matt's right. Gilles shouldn't try to take it apart in case it needs to go back to Burkert.

It seems to me that Gilles doesn't know how to diagnose what is going on. Solenoids are really simple. They are either open or they are closed. If they aren't working correctly, there are just a few things that could be causing this.

[oldpunk]

When you cleaned out the solenoid, (I'm assuming you took it apart) could it be possible you lost the little spring that sits behind the plunger? That would keep it from closing.

Edit - ops, it appears you haven't taken it apart yet. Perhaps something is wedged in with the plunger. I mean, there really isn't much going on inside the valve. There's an orifice, a seal, and a plunger with a spring behind it to close the valve when the power is off.

[GillesF]

I've never had to blow one out, so we'll have to wing it. Try this:
- turn up the working pressure to something like 40 psi or somewhere close to this or higher if you think that you need to
- close the knob on the CO2 cylinder
- unplug the solenoid
- remove the bubble counter/needle valve assembly
- plug in the solenoid to fully open it
- open the knob on the CO2 cylinder and let it blow for a few seconds then either turn off the CO2 cylinder knob or unplug the solenoid or do both
- repeat this step a couple of times

- Now close the knob on the CO2 cylinder and unplug the solenoid
- remove the solenoid and put it back on in the reverse direction
- now do the same steps to blow CO2 through it a few times

- close the knob on the CO2 cylinder and unplug the solenoid again
- remove the solenoid and put it back on in the correct direction with thread sealant
- again, blow it out a few times
- reassemble and test it

* the times that you have to completely remove the solenoid, you may want to blow some CO2 straight out of the regulator in case there is some trash there too
* be observant and look for anything that blows out
* do be very careful that you don't blow anything into your eyes and note that the gas is cold, be careful with it ... wear goggles and gloves

Does this make sense? When my solenoid turns off, the gas flows for a little while afterwards and then it stops. The flow doesn't stop abruptly.

Matt, the manufacturer of my regulator advised me to always close the working pressure before turning open the CO2 cylinder to avoid damaging of the regulator. Are you sure it won't damage it?

And I didn't take it apart. The Bürkert employee did tell me to remove the cap to clean the inside but I couldn't because of the rare screw type (in the form of a star, I have three of those and not one of them matches ...) and the screws are too soft.

[Matt F.]

I always turn the working pressure knob all the way counter-clockwise (close) whenever I open/close the bottle.
Close the bottle, remove the needle valve. open the regulator all the way up, open the bottle, set working pressure for as high as it will go, then connect your solenoid to a power source. This will shoot a whole bunch of pressurized gas through the solenoid. Unplug the solenoid and make sure it closes and the gas stops. Then plug it in again.

DO THIS IS A WELL VENtilated area to avoid suffication. Also wear safety goggles in case anything becomes air-borne...

Remmeber once you plug the solenoid in, the only way to stop the gas flow is by unplugging it. there is no regulator (needle valve) to regulator flow.


Matt, the manufacturer of my regulator advised me to always close the working pressure before turning open the CO2 cylinder to avoid damaging of the regulator. Are you sure it won't damage it?

And I didn't take it apart. The Bürkert employee did tell me to remove the cap to clean the inside but I couldn't because of the rare screw type (in the form of a star, I have three of those and not one of them matches ...) and the screws are too soft.

[Lost Csr]

I do not know if this helps or not.
When I went to the hardware store for a outlet plug and cord, the guy gave me a regular wire with ground wire (green by the way).
There was no black or red. So it does not matter which wire goes to the connection.

[GillesF]

I always turn the working pressure knob all the way counter-clockwise (close) whenever I open/close the bottle.
Close the bottle, remove the needle valve. open the regulator all the way up, open the bottle, set working pressure for as high as it will go, then connect your solenoid to a power source. This will shoot a whole bunch of pressurized gas through the solenoid. Unplug the solenoid and make sure it closes and the gas stops. Then plug it in again.

DO THIS IS A WELL VENtilated area to avoid suffication. Also wear safety goggles in case anything becomes air-borne...

Remmeber once you plug the solenoid in, the only way to stop the gas flow is by unplugging it. there is no regulator (needle valve) to regulator flow.

Thanks for the explanation, will try it today. I live in a small studio, so I'll have to open all the windows then :D


I do not know if this helps or not.
When I went to the hardware store for a outlet plug and cord, the guy gave me a regular wire with ground wire (green by the way).
There was no black or red. So it does not matter which wire goes to the connection.

Well, the ground wiring is correct and the connection doesn't matter for the other two wires, indeed. My father told me I have to check whether or not the wiring is too thick for the solenoid. Maybe there's a connection between the copper wiring of two different wires. I don't know if this might cause the problem?

What I'll do now is:

1) blow out the solenoids using Matt's method
2) check the wiring

If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll have to send them back to Bürkert.

[Matt F.]

Thanks for the explanation, will try it today. I live in a small studio, so I'll have to open all the windows then :D



Well, the ground wiring is correct and the connection doesn't matter for the other two wires, indeed. My father told me I have to check whether or not the wiring is too thick for the solenoid. Maybe there's a connection between the copper wiring of two different wires. I don't know if this might cause the problem?

What I'll do now is:

1) blow out the solenoids using Matt's method
2) check the wiring

If that doesn't solve the problem, I'll have to send them back to Bürkert.

You have to make sure the wiring does not touch each other or the other leads. This can cause the solenoid to not open/close properly. Might also cause a fire I would guess.

[GillesF]

Matt

I tried your method: the solenoid shuts off the CO2 but I can still hear a hissing sound, seems the CO2 is still passing through when everything is shut off. Looks like I have to send them back?

Gilles

[Matt F.]

Matt

I tried your method: the solenoid shuts off the CO2 but I can still hear a hissing sound, seems the CO2 is still passing through when everything is shut off. Looks like I have to send them back?

Gilles

The only time I have had that problem is when I had the solenoid on backwards. That test just confirms the fact that something is preventing the solenoid from closing all the way. Could be an electrical short, a piece of telfon tape or something else, or...Check those electrical connections before you send it back.

[oliverpool]

Wonder if anyone can advise what other things I could check to confirm if my 6011 Burkert is faulty? When I first got it, I noticed that the click sound when I switch it on was rather soft. But as it was working, I let it be for around 2 weeks. When my CO2 tank ran out and I was outstation, I switched it off and only connected my new tank back around 1 week later. This time, the solenoid did not seem to open and there was defintely no click sound or "jerk" when I held the solenoid on my hand and switched it on.

I changed the fuse on my plug, changed the cable and rewired the solenoid (even reversed the wiring) and changed to a new wall plug and still could not get it working. Any suggestion on anything else to try before I send it back?

[Left C]

Wonder if anyone can advise what other things I could check to confirm if my 6011 Burkert is faulty? When I first got it, I noticed that the click sound when I switch it on was rather soft. But as it was working, I let it be for around 2 weeks. When my CO2 tank ran out and I was outstation, I switched it off and only connected my new tank back around 1 week later. This time, the solenoid did not seem to open and there was defintely no click sound or "jerk" when I held the solenoid on my hand and switched it on.

I changed the fuse on my plug, changed the cable and rewired the solenoid (even reversed the wiring) and changed to a new wall plug and still could not get it working. Any suggestion on anything else to try before I send it back?You may want to contact Brett Easterling at 864-735-3238. He can get you in touch with tech support.

[oliverpool]

You may want to contact Brett Easterling at 864-735-3238. He can get you in touch with tech support.

Thanks for the suggestion!

[Left C]

Thanks for the suggestion!You have taken the steps as far as I could tell you. Let the pro's handle it.

[Matt F.]

You may want to contact Brett Easterling at 864-735-3238. He can get you in touch with tech support.

Yeah, I think this is the best bet for those of you with issues after wiring your own solenoid. Without being there, there is really no way to know for sure what is going on. You have to remember that these solenoids are leak tested from the factory. They leave working properly. So something is happened between the time it gets to you and the time you plug it in your wall socket. Tech support is prob your best bet at this point.

If you reverse the wires, the solenoid might not work properly. In the DIY thread, I showed everyone the proper wiring configuration-which color goes where, etc.
I got this info from burkert support. If you trim too much of the plastic insulation off the wires, you can cause function issues with the solenoid. May even arc and cause different problems. ;)

[oliverpool]

I was wondering if it was possible or all right to change the body (the metal part with ports inlet and outlet) between different models? I was thinking as long as the orifice was the same e.g. 2mm that this should not cause problems even if there are different voltage models?




Yeah, I think this is the best bet for those of you with issues after wiring your own solenoid. Without being there, there is really no way to know for sure what is going on. You have to remember that these solenoids are leak tested from the factory. They leave working properly. So something is happened between the time it gets to you and the time you plug it in your wall socket. Tech support is prob your best bet at this point.

If you reverse the wires, the solenoid might not work properly. In the DIY thread, I showed everyone the proper wiring configuration-which color goes where, etc.
I got this info from burkert support. If you trim too much of the plastic insulation off the wires, you can cause function issues with the solenoid. May even arc and cause different problems. ;)

[Matt F.]

I think that would be a good question for Burkert customer service. I wouldn't switch brands b/c we are dealing with pressurized gas. I also don't see why you would want to switch. What would be your reason for switching bodies?


I was wondering if it was possible or all right to change the body (the metal part with ports inlet and outlet) between different models? I was thinking as long as the orifice was the same e.g. 2mm that this should not cause problems even if there are different voltage models?

[oliverpool]

I think that would be a good question for Burkert customer service. I wouldn't switch brands b/c we are dealing with pressurized gas. I also don't see why you would want to switch. What would be your reason for switching bodies?

Not switch brands but from one 6011 burkert to another model of 6011 burkert. I have a faulty 6011 which has NPT 1/8 ports which is the one I want. I can get easily another 6011 model but it comes in G1/8 port. So basically I wanted to use the G1/8 solenoid but mate it to the NPT1/8 body....I live in Singapore one consideration is shipping cost etc which is why I asked this question.

[Left C]

Not switch brands but from one 6011 burkert to another model of 6011 burkert. I have a faulty 6011 which has NPT 1/8 ports which is the one I want. I can get easily another 6011 model but it comes in G1/8 port. So basically I wanted to use the G1/8 solenoid but mate it to the NPT1/8 body....I live in Singapore one consideration is shipping cost etc which is why I asked this question.
Here are my thoughts on your question:

I would call Burkert tech support to make sure that it would work. I think what you are wanting to do will work if everything is the same but the threads, BUT I DO NOT WORK FOR BURKERT. I CANNOT SPEAK FOR THEM.

Modifying yours will probably void the warranty. Call Burkert and explain your situation.

Isn't the one that you have now under warranty?

Also, Burkert can custom make models according to your specs. Takes about 6 weeks. You need 220V-240V 50 Hz. Here are the specs for 120V 60 Hz Buna-N models: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7429-B%C3%BCrkert-6011-solenoids-with-Buna-seals-...-available-very-soon?p=52342#post52342


Bürkert Contact: http://burkert.com/

SINGAPORE
Burkert Contromatic Singapore Pte. Ltd.

51 Ubi Avenue 1, #03-14
Paya Ubi Industrial Park
Singapore 408933
Singapore
Phone: Int. (+65)6844 2233, Nat. 6844 2233
Fax: Int. (+65)6844 3532, Nat. 6844 3532
E-Mail: info.sin@burkert.com



MALAYSIA
Burkert Contromatic Singapore Pte. Ltd.

(Malaysia Branch Office)
2F-1, Tingkat Kenari 6,
Sungai Ara,
11960 Penang,
Malaysia.
Phone: Int. (+60 4)643 5008, Nat. (04)643 5008
Fax: Int. (+60 4)643 7010, Nat. (04)643 7010
E-Mail: info.sin@burkert.com

[oliverpool]

Understand. The Singapore office takes a super long time to give you a answer on anything unfortunately. I was hoping to avoid calling the US office and to date, both the Germany and US office still have not answered my email. Guess the only way to be sure is to call the office directly. I was wondering why the 230/240v 50hz models do not come in NPT 1/8. Guess the same answer as the CGA320 nuts for US and another standard for Europe. Sigh, things would be so much easier and probably cheaper for everyone if we can have similar standards...


Here are my thoughts on your question:

I would call Burkert tech support to make sure that it would work. I think what you are wanting to do will work if everything is the same but the threads, BUT I DO NOT WORK FOR BURKERT. I CANNOT SPEAK FOR THEM.

Modifying yours will probably void the warranty. Call Burkert and explain your situation.

Isn't the one that you have now under warranty?

Also, Burkert can custom make models according to your specs. Takes about 6 weeks. You need 220V-240V 50 Hz. Here are the specs for 120V 60 Hz Buna-N models: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7429-B%C3%BCrkert-6011-solenoids-with-Buna-seals-...-available-very-soon?p=52342#post52342


Bürkert Contact: http://burkert.com/

SINGAPORE
Burkert Contromatic Singapore Pte. Ltd.

51 Ubi Avenue 1, #03-14
Paya Ubi Industrial Park
Singapore 408933
Singapore
Phone: Int. (+65)6844 2233, Nat. 6844 2233
Fax: Int. (+65)6844 3532, Nat. 6844 3532
E-Mail: info.sin@burkert.com



MALAYSIA
Burkert Contromatic Singapore Pte. Ltd.

(Malaysia Branch Office)
2F-1, Tingkat Kenari 6,
Sungai Ara,
11960 Penang,
Malaysia.
Phone: Int. (+60 4)643 5008, Nat. (04)643 5008
Fax: Int. (+60 4)643 7010, Nat. (04)643 7010
E-Mail: info.sin@burkert.com

[GillesF]

I blew out one reg and redid the wiring and so far no CO2 passing through. Now, I'm going to rebuild it and check it one more time.

[Matt F.]

I blew out one reg and redid the wiring and so far no CO2 passing through. Now, I'm going to rebuild it and check it one more time.

Great news. Keep us posted. Prob a wiring issue.

[Left C]

I blew out one reg and redid the wiring and so far no CO2 passing through. Now, I'm going to rebuild it and check it one more time.I'm glad that it is working out for you even if it is a piece at a time.

Your problem reminds me of some problems that I've had fiddling with my Nova T5 light fixture. :)

Good luck!

[Lost Csr]

Oliverpool.
I have a thread with a NPT with Euro specs.
I have asked (a while back from 3 different Euro Burkert Company)

They all told me that the 462501 is the best solenoid for our use. Just comes in SS.

Pm me if you would like me to order one for you.

Goodluck Gilles with your reg. My offer is always there.

[oliverpool]

Thanks for the info. Any Idea what difference does a 2mm or 2.4mm orifice would mean? Could u pm me the price for the item?



Oliverpool.
I have a thread with a NPT with Euro specs.
I have asked (a while back from 3 different Euro Burkert Company)

They all told me that the 462501 is the best solenoid for our use. Just comes comes in SS.

Pm me if you would like me to order one for you.

Goodluck Gilles with your reg. My offer is always there.

[David]

One question for you Matt:

I see that there are two Type 2506 DIN connectors for the 6011, one with a varistor and one without. Which did you choose, and why?

I'll be ordering my 6011 stainless Buna-N solenoid this week so I thought I'd get your opinion on this before I pick up a DIN connector.

Cheers.

[Matt F.]

I think I ordered the 2506 DIN without the varisitor. No reason why I didn't buy one with a varisitor. Not sure why one would want a varisitor. I think there is an LED'd version of the 2506DIN (Ask LeftC).
I don't think it really matters much. My 2605 DIn w/o works fine in my application where the solenoid is connected to a powerstrip and the powerstrip is plugged into the wall.
It's kinda like the whole Viton vs. Buna debate. Buna is actually a cheaper material than Viton. Both will hold up extremely well over time. I don't think we'll notice a difference with seal materials. Buna is used for painball guns, which are propelled by co2 gas. You'll be fine either way. I prefer simpler stuff. Less is more, imo.
Hope this helps.


One question for you Matt:

I see that there are two Type 2506 DIN connectors for the 6011, one with a varistor and one without. Which did you choose, and why?

I'll be ordering my 6011 stainless Buna-N solenoid this week so I thought I'd get your opinion on this before I pick up a DIN connector.

Cheers.

[thegasman]

I know this is an older thread, but thanks Matt. I just used this info. to wire up my Burkert and it made the job a whole lot easier.

[Matt F.]

I'm glad the thread is still helping people! Congrats on wiring your own.

Best,

Matt


I know this is an older thread, but thanks Matt. I just used this info. to wire up my Burkert and it made the job a whole lot easier.