Just had TWO parker solenoid valves die on me in one day!

[Oreo]

Best I can figure is something in the coil crapped out. I bought two, when the first one died I just swapped the coil. That worked again for a while and now that one is dead too. Crap.

[Gerryd]

That's wierd AND stinks...

Do you have a third, or what are you doing now?

Knock wood, I have never had even a bad solenoid..... YET :)

[Left C]

.... Knock wood .... YET :)http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s320/Left_C/knocking.jpg

[hbosman]

I had one go bad but that was a Clippard. It really never did work properly. Anyway, I bought one of those Ebay Parker Solenoids and it has been absolutely rock solid. I was convinced it was way better than the Clippard but, maybe not. I was thinking of buying a spare Parker since the price is right but, maybe I'll just take my chances with the one I have.

[Oreo]

what are you doing now?I'm using a magnet to hold the valve open. I'll have to manually control the thing till I figure something out.

[Oreo]

I just noticed this in the ebay listing for these parker solenoids we're all buying:


As is the custom at such sales, most of the box labels were removed prior to the time we received the shipment. Thus, we never found a comprehensive label that we could photograph, and we do not know the exact "Parker" part number. Somebody missed enough label shreds, however, so that we can tell you the maximum ambient operating temperature for continuous duty is 68F, maximum fluid temperature is 180F, response time is 8 to 16 milliseconds, cycles per minute is 600, body is 303 Stainless, and the coil encapsulant material is nylon. The seals are Buna-N (aka Nitrile and NBR) which would make them compatible with air, inert gases, water, alcohols, and petroleum-based oils and fuels.68*F max ambient temp for continuous duty?! That's no good. Tells me the coils can't deal with heat well at all or aren't really meant to be used in continuous duty they way we need. Just based on my experience, I gotta give these valves a thumbs down for us.

[gillt]

Is it even worth wiring the Parker or should I just look for a new solenoid?

[Left C]

Best I can figure is something in the coil crapped out. I bought two, when the first one died I just swapped the coil. That worked again for a while and now that one is dead too. Crap.I forgot to mention this. But have you tried contacting the seller, sherrodsurplus (http://cgi.ebay.com/Parker-120-Volt-STAINLESS-Solenoid-Valves-150-PSI-New-/290439473107?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item439f8aa7d3)? He made good on someone's that went bad on TPT.

What do you think of the Bürkert solenoids (http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/6470-Dual-Stage-Regulators?p=51218#post51218)?

[Oreo]

I haven't bought a burkert yet. I also haven't contacted SherrodSurplus yet either. I probably should on both accounts but I've been kinda busy around the house lately and with family obligations. Haven't had a chance to sort this one out yet. I did buy a replacement coil with a proper power cord (not a heat-shrink home-brew job) on ebay. I'm hoping that works. Truth is, I completely disassembled one of the faulty valves just to see the internal build quality. The "pressure vessle", aka the stainless valve is constructed beautifully. GLA's valves have nothing on the Parkers. We're just buying the wrong coil.

[gillt]

I haven't bought a burkert yet. I also haven't contacted SherrodSurplus yet either. I probably should on both accounts but I've been kinda busy around the house lately and with family obligations. Haven't had a chance to sort this one out yet. I did buy a replacement coil with a proper power cord (not a heat-shrink home-brew job) on ebay. I'm hoping that works. Truth is, I completely disassembled one of the faulty valves just to see the internal build quality. The "pressure vessle", aka the stainless valve is constructed beautifully. GLA's valves have nothing on the Parkers. We're just buying the wrong coil.

Do you have any more information on the proper power cord and coil for these Parkers?

Thanks

[Left C]

That's very interesting. Do you have a link to the coil and powercord that you ordered? What do you look for to find replacement coils for them? Are Buna-N seals long lasting with CO2 use? I'm lost. LOL

[Oreo]

Yes, Buna-N is fine with CO2. They use Buna-N O-rings on paint ball CO2 bottles.

Well I did some research on Parker solenoid valves and found that their current product line uses a modular design. Basically, they have different "pressure vessels" depending on what inlet / outlet size & PSI requirements you have, and then they have different coils depending on what electrical requirements you have. For any given pressure vessel there are a selection of probably five or so different coils that will work. I just need to figure out which ones will physically fit. From the catalog it wasn't 100% clear so I tried calling one of Parker's distributors but never got a return call. During the first conversation though the rep couldn't find any listed info on the valve we're buying on ebay. None of the numbers come up in their system. I suspect it was a custom designed coil (not pressure vessel) for a commercial customer and not part of their normal product line.

Anyway, the coil I bought on ebay is a total gamble. I bought it because I'm going out of town for a few days and if I get that replacement coil in time, and if it fits, I'll feel a whole lot better leaving my CO2 system running while I'm gone.

Long story short though, the valve we're buying on ebay comes with a 6 watt coil. When I look up that particular pressure vessel though (1/8" npt inlet/outlet, 1/16" orifice, stainless) the catalog says it takes a 10w coil. The 10w coils look a little taller then the 6w coils in the picture though so I'm concerned the 10w coils won't fit. I just need a rep to tell me whether to order a 10w coil or something else.

[Left C]

Thanks!! That's some great info. I've been looking for a while and I haven't had any luck. I hope your ebay coil works out.

[gillt]

Keep us tuned in. Hope the 10 watt coil fits.

[S&KGray]

I'm pretty sure the 10w coils are for Skinner (Parker) 7000 series valves. The valve being sold by SherrodSurplus is a 3000 series valve, and the coil type most likely M1S1 Integrated Molded, 1/4” Tab, 6W, Class B, 110/50 Hz, 120/60 Hz AC as listed on pg 126 of the pdf linked below. The seller states that there is 3M1S1P3 stamped on the coil and shows it in a couple of the pictures, I don't know what the 3 stands for.

Also it looks like all 3000 series have a maximum ambient temperature of 68F for continuous duty cycle.

http://www.parker.com/literature/Fluid%20Control%20Division/FCD%20Full%20Line%20Skinner%20Valve%20Cat%2003_08. pdf

[hbosman]

Oreo,

Are your solenoids attached to the regulator via brass fittings or are you running them inline? The reason I ask is I noticed that when I was running a solenoid inline, it was much hotter than when I attached it to the regulator via fittings. I guess the regulator acts like a big heat sink. My Parker solenoid is still working very well.

[Oreo]

Oreo,
Are your solenoids attached to the regulator via brass fittings or are you running them inline? The reason I ask is I noticed that when I was running a solenoid inline, it was much hotter than when I attached it to the regulator via fittings. I guess the regulator acts like a big heat sink. My Parker solenoid is still working very well.I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Inline = attached with brass fittings. The solenoid valve & any regulator I've seen both have female NPT ports that will require a brass nipple to plumb the two together. Besides that, the valve isn't the part that gets hot. The coil is the problem and the stainless valve itself isn't connected to the coil in a way that allows any kind of efficient heat transfer.

Anyway, I got back from Canada last night. The 10w coil I ordered was waiting on the door step. It's HUGE by comparison to our little parker solenoid valves. So the 10w coils are definitely a no-go. S&KGray is on to something though so I'll have to go back and look at the catalog again. I'll spend some time on it tonight & see what I come up with.

[hbosman]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Inline = attached with brass fittings. The solenoid valve & any regulator I've seen both have female NPT ports that will require a brass nipple to plumb the two together. Besides that, the valve isn't the part that gets hot. The coil is the problem and the stainless valve itself isn't connected to the coil in a way that allows any kind of efficient heat transfer.

Anyway, I got back from Canada last night. The 10w coil I ordered was waiting on the door step. It's HUGE by comparison to our little parker solenoid valves. So the 10w coils are definitely a no-go. S&KGray is on to something though so I'll have to go back and look at the catalog again. I'll spend some time on it tonight & see what I come up with.

What I meant by inline is using 2 brass hose barbs attaching it to the tubing vs. a brass nipple attaching it to the regulator. If it is attached to the regulator, it does make a difference on how hot the solenoid gets. I tried a clippard inline and it got so hot that the tubing was getting really soft. When I attached it to the regulator with a brass nipple, the valve part stayed much cooler. But you answered my question. I was just trying to figure out why you had such almost immediate failures since my Parker with 6 watt coil has been great for 2 months so far. The coil on the Parker is energized 9 hours a day.

[fischman]

Just to add, my brand new parker solenoid seems to be having some issues. This being my first pressurized setup, I'm not sure if they are typical. About 50% of the time when the timer clicks to on the solenoid emits a buzzing noise that is very annoying. The only way to get rid of it is to turn it off and back on. Sometimes it takes a time or two before it'll switch on with no noise. Not sure if this is due to the weak coil or what not. Are they any other reasonably priced options? I really would like to not spend another $40-50 if I can avoid it. Thanks!

Josh

[Oreo]

What I meant by inline is using 2 brass hose barbs attaching it to the tubing vs. a brass nipple attaching it to the regulator. If it is attached to the regulator, it does make a difference on how hot the solenoid gets. I tried a clippard inline and it got so hot that the tubing was getting really soft. When I attached it to the regulator with a brass nipple, the valve part stayed much cooler. But you answered my question. I was just trying to figure out why you had such almost immediate failures since my Parker with 6 watt coil has been great for 2 months so far. The coil on the Parker is energized 9 hours a day.OH, OK now I understand. Still, if your coil is getting so hot that brass plumbing is needed as a heat-sink then the coil isn't rated properly for the task. Neither of my coils got more then luke-warm before they died. Both had been on for a few hours.
Just to add, my brand new parker solenoid seems to be having some issues. This being my first pressurized setup, I'm not sure if they are typical. About 50% of the time when the timer clicks to on the solenoid emits a buzzing noise that is very annoying. The only way to get rid of it is to turn it off and back on. Sometimes it takes a time or two before it'll switch on with no noise. Not sure if this is due to the weak coil or what not. Are they any other reasonably priced options? I really would like to not spend another $40-50 if I can avoid it. Thanks!

JoshInexpensive solenoid valves aren't hard to find on ebay. Try Clippard and Burkert brand also. The only strict requirement we have is that they be "normally closed". Some will have different size pipe threads but that's no big deal, and some will have other electrical requirements- 12vdc, 24vdc, also no big deal if you have a wall-wart transformer you're willing to sacrifice. The nicest thing about these parker valves we've been buying is that they are so small. Many of the other solenoid valves are 2-3 times the size. Hence, I really just want to find a replacement coil if I can.

[Orlando]

I haven't bought a burkert yet. I also haven't contacted SherrodSurplus yet either. I probably should on both accounts but I've been kinda busy around the house lately and with family obligations. Haven't had a chance to sort this one out yet. I did buy a replacement coil with a proper power cord (not a heat-shrink home-brew job) on ebay. I'm hoping that works. Truth is, I completely disassembled one of the faulty valves just to see the internal build quality. The "pressure vessle", aka the stainless valve is constructed beautifully. GLA's valves have nothing on the Parkers. We're just buying the wrong coil.

Interesting. Have you used one of our valves? Do tell :)

[Oreo]

Interesting. Have you used one of our valves? Do tell :)I have not used one of your valves. I was using the pictures you posted for the comparison. Are your solenoid valves available for sale as an independent product? IIRC I called you asking about purchasing one a long time ago and was told they were only available as part of your package deals. If you've got one for sale I'm ready to buy.

I just got off the phone with Parker technical support. If I understood the guy correctly they don't even make the 3000 series valves anymore, nor has a proper coil ever been manufactured. He did give me the part number of a valve with the proper specs for our application: 20cc02mb4D6F I'll have to do some more research on that part number to find out all the details.

Basically, if you haven't bought one already I wouldn't go spending your money on those SherrodSurplus solenoid valves (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STAINLESS-Parker-120V-Electric-Solenoid-Valves-SS-New-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f347a04aQQitemZ30043 4301002QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools). Beautiful as they are they're just not spec'd right for us.

[S&KGray]

I just got off the phone with Parker technical support. If I understood the guy correctly they don't even make the 3000 series valves anymore, nor has a proper coil ever been manufactured. He did give me the part number of a valve with the proper specs for our application: 20cc02mb4D6F I'll have to do some more research on that part number to find out all the details.

That looks like a Gold Ring series 20 part number: http://www.parker.com/literature/Fluid%20Control%20Division/CAT%207300A%200707.pdf

[Oreo]

OK this should be an excellent valve for our purposes. It's very comparable to the Parker valve sold by SherrodSurplus except it has a proper ambient operating temperature.:

($30 + $10 shipping. There's three left. I just bought two.)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350220893146&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

PN: (http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.bb22d5a82bbb5b147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=a2d9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCR D&vgnextfmt=EN&vgnextpartno=20CC02LV4B4F&vgnextdiv=821838&vgnextcatid=2838092&configtype=)20CC02LV4B4F (http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.bb22d5a82bbb5b147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=a2d9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCR D&vgnextfmt=EN&vgnextpartno=20CC02LV4B4F&vgnextdiv=821838&vgnextcatid=2838092&configtype=)
Specs: (http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.bb22d5a82bbb5b147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=a2d9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCR D&vgnextfmt=EN&vgnextpartno=20CC02LV4B4F&vgnextdiv=821838&vgnextcatid=2838092&configtype=)
PRODUCT TYPE ..................................SOLENOID VALVE 2W DIRECT ACTING
CONFIGURATION/TYPE........................ 2 Way
OPERATION....................................... NORMALLY CLOSED
MEDIA ............................................. AIR,WATER,LIGHT OIL
PIPE/PORT SIZE..................................1/8 INCH
CONNECTION......................................NP T
MAX OPERATING PRESSURE DIFF........... 320 PSI
MIN OPERATING PRESSURE DIFF.............0 PSI
VOLTAGE/FREQUENCY RATING.............. 120/60 110/50
BODY MATERIAL..................................303 STAINLESS STEEL
SEALS............................................. .Viton - FKM
FLOW COEFFICIENT/RATING................. 0.22
ORIFICE DIAMETER............................. 3/32 INCH
ENCLOSURE........................................I NTEGRATED LEADED
COIL TERMINATIONS ......................... 18 INCH LEADS
POWER CONSUMPTION.........................8.5 WATTS
COIL INSULATION............................... CLASS F
AMBIENT TEMPERATURE................... 135 F
FLUID TEMPERATURE...........................180 F
MOPD OIL..........................................320 PSI
MOPD WATER.....................................320 PSI
MOPD STEAM.....................................Not Applicable
MOPD AIR/GAS...................................320 PSI

[nipat]

$36.74 USPS Priority Mail International.

If this was sold by someone in Hong Kong or even UK
the shipping cost could fall down to 10 USD. They know
more about selling to overseas...

[Darkblade48]

I am a bit confused by that eBay listing:



Shipping weight: 140 LBS.
Shipping Pallet Dimensions: 42" L x 24" W x 24" H // Handling Fee: $10
This does not seem right for a solenoid?

The seller then says that the item will ship USPS...so are they using the post office, or using some kind of courier service?

[Oreo]

Looks like when he created this ebay listing he started with a copy of another listing and forgot to delete the old shipping info. Those valves ship USPS for $10 to me. That 140lbs bit is for some kind of pallet sized equipment- clearly not applicable to a solenoid valve.

[Oreo]

My solenoid valves arrived in the mail today. :D

Like I said before, these parker valves are creme de la creme as long as you get one spec'd proper for the job.


The only way this valve could be better is if it had the 1/2" npt sleeve where the wires exit for use with a wire grommet but this should still be much easier to work with then the spade connectors. Definitely safer since there won't be any exposed live-wires. The stainless pressure vessel is the same size as the sherrodSurplus parker valve but the coil is about 50% taller.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/jdecar1/Aquarium/P1013081.jpg

100% stainless everything. Internal machine work is impeccable. Clean welded joints, and standard O-rings. Use of standard o-rings are nice because replacements are easy to find, vs. proprietary seals that may not even be available if the manufacturer discontinues the design.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/jdecar1/Aquarium/P1013077.jpg

On this particular Parker valve they even used o-rings on the coil body. It's a nice touch to help keep moisture out of there, considering anything used around an aquarium tends to get splashed once in a while.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/jdecar1/Aquarium/P1013080.jpg

[gillt]

a hearty thanks for all the research and posting you did. I have one of those old parkers fitted to my co2 system, just haven't turned the thing on yet. I guess I'll save up for a new solenoid now for when this one inevitably fails.

[Oreo]

I don't know that I'd say failure is inevitable. Wire it up and give it a go. Sounds like plenty of people have had decent luck with the SherrodSurplus valve. I wouldn't recommend buying another one but since you've already got one you might as well.

[S&KGray]

Check out pg114 of the Parker Skinner Valve catalog I linked a few posts back. On the bottom of that page is a table and chart (font isn't clear) that lists the temperature ratings of the different classes of coils. The Sherrodsurplus valve has a M1S1 coil, which is a class B coil. Maybe some of the coils might be faulty, because they should be able to handle quite a bit more than 68F according to that table and chart.

[Oreo]

S&KGray, thank you for all your help interpreting the Parker Skinner valve catalog. Either that catalog is a royal PITA to make sense of or my brain goes half dead every time I pull up the .pdf. Your posts have saved me a lot of time & trouble.

Looking at pg 114, it appears to me that they are talking about the actual coil temperature, assuming a 77*F ambient. (Even if we assume SherrodSurplus quoted the label wrong when he said 68*F ambient spec.) That still means we're using these coils at the very edge of their design limits. I suspect some will die quickly and some will last a good long time just based on luck of the draw and individual usage circumstances. You might be right though about some of the coils being faulty, who knows.

All I can say is that as of yesterday I have two new Parker solenoid valves with specs I'm more comfortable with. One has been plugged in and running longer then both my SherrodSurplus valves combined. That being the final piece to my CO2 puzzle, my rig is finally 100% complete. Thank God.

The coils on my new solenoid valves do get hot though. You can't keep your hand on it for very long. The little instructions leaflet from Parker says this is normal though.

[hbosman]

8.5 watts should be a little hotter. That energy has to go somewhere. Maybe come up with heatsink mod like they use for overclocked PC CPUs. :-)

100 watt incandescent light bulbs usually don't create problems with the heat so, I don't think 8.5 watts would be a problem.

[hbosman]

I've been lucky with my $12.00 Parker so far, works flawlessly. Much better than my Clippard but that could be related to a bad batch as well. I like the looks of the new solenoid you found. It will probably last quite awhile. Looks easy to service it, it would ever get clogged.

I would be interested to see how you attach a power cord to the wires. Butt connectors, shrink wrap or solder? That is one thing I miss about the Clippards, the din connectors, they are much nicer.

[Oreo]

That CPU heat-sink idea actually crossed my mind lol. I'm hoping when I get this valve installed the brass fittings & regulator will help dissipate some of the heat.

[hbosman]

That CPU heat-sink idea actually crossed my mind lol. I'm hoping when I get this valve installed the brass fittings & regulator will help dissipate some of the heat.

Or, you could get one of those 5 inch computer case fans with the blue LEDs blowing on it. Just kidding...

[hbosman]

I would like to see how you attach the power cord. What comes to my mind probably, wouldn't look very good.

[Oreo]

I'll get a picture of that maybe later today but probably tomorrow 'cause I just got home from work & gotta head back in in about 8 hrs. Basically, I chopped the leads real short, soldered & heat-shrinked a power cord, and then used RTV silicone and another layer of heat shrink to make the power cord's insulation effectively uniform all the way to the coil body. Then I used a spring with an I.D. snug on the power cord as a flex-reinforcement overlapping the joint between the coil body and the cord. Then I used some RTV silicone to hold the spring in place and round out the rough edges. Done. Sounds more complicated then it is but it should be plenty sturdy.

[Oreo]

Here ya go there hbosman:

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/jdecar1/Aquarium/P1013083.jpg

[S&KGray]

Dang Oreo, you don't mess around! lol

Very nice btw.

[Oreo]

I do not mess around.

Thanks for the compliment. :)

[gillt]

My sherrodplus parker just stopped. I have yet to take it apart. How can I tell if it's broken or needs cleaning?

[Mike1971]

Mine stopped working a few weeks ago, I just used the magnet from one side of my glass cleaner to open and close it manually until the Burkett solenoid I ordered to replace it arrived. I don't know how to diagnose it, but mine wouldn't open via electricity, just with a magnet.

[S&KGray]

If it will open and close with a magnet and not with electricity then the problem is most likely the coil.

[Oreo]

Yep. That's exactly what happened to mine. When the coil dies the valve functions normally mechanically but the coil won't operate the valve.

I'm sorry to hear that you guys are starting to have problems too.

[gillt]

I noticed you took apart your parker, Oreo. Is there a way I can access the spring or check to see if mine is clogged? The sherrodplus parker I have seems fused together, no o-ring in sight. If not, I'm in the market for a hopefully inexpensive replacement solenoid, if anyone has any suggestions!

[herns]

I just bought two of this sherrodplus Parker Solenoid in ebay from the same seller. Some folks in TPT had their sherrodplus Parker S running for months now without problems, but some had their parker coil roasted in less than 2 weeks of use.

I had sellers reply about this issue, He said "We have had five returns out of 1,500+ pieces sold. Two of those were attributed to the use of incorrect 12VDC current, which obviously fried them in short order.".

My other Clippard solenoid is leaking, too.

[Oreo]

Gillt, Unscrew the nut on top and take the coil off the valve. Then grip the base of the valve with a pair of pliers and use a screwdriver on the valve stem. It unscrews pretty easy. You'll see the inside is made very well and not much to go wrong.

[hbosman]

Here ya go there hbosman:

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/jdecar1/Aquarium/P1013083.jpg

Wow, that looks really professional. I think I'm going to look for some springs as well.

[gillt]

Thanks, oreo. I have my co2 running constantly while I shop for another solenoid.

[herns]

Here ya go there hbosman:

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/jdecar1/Aquarium/P1013083.jpg

How do you determine directional flow of sherrodplus Parker S?

[Oreo]

All Parker Solenoid valves are marked 0 & 1, or 1 & 2. If your valve came with the instruction leaflet from Parker it tells you which is which. On the one in the picture above, 2 was the inlet, 1 was the outlet. If you look in the 1/8" npt ports one side will have 1 hole drilled (the outlet) the other side will have 2 holes drilled (the inlet). Or, you can take the valve apart & see how it's constructed. For all solenoid valves by any manufacturer the center hole sealed by the stem piston is always the outlet as inlet pressure on this hole would simply lift the piston & leak.

[Left C]

It seems that these sherrodsurplus Parker solenoids are frying because they are been kept on continuously for hours at a time. Also, mechanical timers are being used with many of them to turn them on and off.

Many of the mechanical timers that are used have little tabs that you flip up and down that represent 15 minutes.

What if you would set the timer so that it would turn off a certain amount of time that allows the solenoid to cool from time to time during the lighting cycle? You may want to use a dedicated timer for the solenoid instead of the same one for the lights.

You could do something like: on 15 off 15, on 30 off 15, on 45 off 15, on 60 off 15, on 75 off 15 and so forth. Or it may need to be off for 30 minutes instead of 15 so that it gets a chance to cool. Of course, you would have to adjust your needle/metering valve accordingly. I wonder if doing something like this would extend its life?

Those that are using pH controllers and these solenoids can crank up their bubble count so that the solenoid is off a good portion of its cycle time to keep cool.

Also, there are various electronic timers that allow multiple cycles in a 24 hour period that may be used too.

It's just some ideas that I want to toss out.

[Oreo]

That might help a lot actually Left C. Still, just my humble opinion, but if you gotta jerry rig the damn thing to work right it defeats the whole purpose. We talk about buying the very best equipement- regulators, needle valves, etc. for the purpose of absolute reliability. I see no reason why the solenoid valve should suddenly be the chink in the chain anyone asks for. If you've got one that's working, great. Otherwise, ditch the garbage and find one that spec'd proper.

[shoggoth43]

I would think that the on/off cycle every 15 minutes would be best for that particular unit.

But I have to think that if it can't handle the duty cycle then it's not really suited for the application. I'd like for my CO2 to be on and stable and not pulsed every 15 minutes or so. ( of course it helps if the CO2 actually makes it to my aquarium but that's another equipment failure entirely unrelated to the solenoid ) I'm not sure if the 50% duty cycle would cause issues in the tank or not. I would think it wouldn't help but maybe it would average out well enough? More concerning would be the knowledge that if my timer ever stuck on I'd roast the solenoid and that concept kind of bugs me for some reason.

-
S

[Left C]

I like for my equipment to work right too. I have two of the sherrodsurplus solenoids that I got for backup.

I ordered three of the Parker PN: 20CC02LV4B4F solenoids like Oreo has a few days before Brett at Bürkert contacted me. When I get some solenoids from Bürkert, I'm going to have a nest full of solenoids. LOL

[Left C]

My three of these came in yesterday. They are very nice! Thanks a bunch Oreo!!!!


My solenoid valves arrived in the mail today. :D

Like I said before, these parker valves are creme de la creme as long as you get one spec'd proper for the job.


The only way this valve could be better is if it had the 1/2" npt sleeve where the wires exit for use with a wire grommet but this should still be much easier to work with then the spade connectors. Definitely safer since there won't be any exposed live-wires. The stainless pressure vessel is the same size as the sherrodSurplus parker valve but the coil is about 50% taller.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/jdecar1/Aquarium/P1013081.jpg

100% stainless everything. Internal machine work is impeccable. Clean welded joints, and standard O-rings. Use of standard o-rings are nice because replacements are easy to find, vs. proprietary seals that may not even be available if the manufacturer discontinues the design.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/jdecar1/Aquarium/P1013077.jpg

On this particular Parker valve they even used o-rings on the coil body. It's a nice touch to help keep moisture out of there, considering anything used around an aquarium tends to get splashed once in a while.
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l109/jdecar1/Aquarium/P1013080.jpg

[Singtoh]

Hello All,

My solenoid valve that came stock with my regulator decided to give me a fireworks show this morning. It was a real fright, the thing just suddenly shorted and throwing sparks everywhere. Anyway, I went and purchased the Parker VE131-4 FV solenoid valve. I wasn't paying to much attention when I put it together and I put the arrow that is on the brass fitting going against the flow of gas:o, off course I noticed this after I tightned the crap out of everything. It seems to be working just fine this way but was wondering if someone could tell me if I will damage it this way. If I don't have to mess with it again that would be really good. Are they 2 way can go either way type of valves?? Thanks in advance for any info on this.

Cheers,

Singtoh

[hbosman]

My Sherrodplus Parker Solenoid is still working, two years later. Ok, now I jinxed it.

[SaltyNC]

My Sherrodplus Parker Solenoid is still working, two years later. Ok, now I jinxed it.

I hope it continues to work for you. Does your parker solenoid get hot -- say above 120 degrees?

John