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richardsantink is Offline
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Location: just outside of Ottawa, Ontario
11-16-2007, 02:09 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by oblongshrimp View Post
I have done high tech planted fw tanks for the last 2 years and I have been interested in trying a sw planted tank. I was thinking of a 40 gallon breeder.

Livestock
No idea in this area but I was thinking eventually seahorses may be cool. Probably will keep this pretty light on the livestock though

Macros/corals/ect
I think I will just stick with macroalgaes for now may or may not add a couple corals in the future

Lighting
I have a 2x92w 36" PC with 10k bulbs. Do I need any actinic?

Substrate and liverock
How deep should my sand bed be? Do i need to add anything to it (I read stuff that Tom was saying about adding soil to it)? How much liverock should I have in the tank? Is there a big difference between all the different kinds of live rock that are out there?

Filter/water circulation
I assume I don't need a real filter since I have the liverock but know I need a good turnover rate. How much turnover do I need and whats the best way to get it (powerheads?)

Dosing
Does adding CO2 do anything in a macro tank? Any suggestions on a dosing schedule? I use dry ferts for my fw tanks so I have them all available.

I appreciate the help and I will make sure to post some photos when I get it up and running.

Oblong..

Here's what I can tell you (may be of limited value, since I run coldwater macros):
Lighting: what you describe is more than adequate for macroalgae that I've encountered. No actinic required here (assuming algae only tank, no corals etc..)

Livestock: I've added green crabs and hermit crabs to make things a little interesting and to have a bit of bio-load in the tank.

Substrate: most macroalgae don't care about the substrate since they take their nutrients directly from the water column. That said some Caulerpa have runners, and some other vascular plants like Zostera like a fine substrate since they have roots, proper. Depending on the algae you intend to keep, it will come attached to a chunk of rock or something via the holdfast. Some types will regenerate a holdfast if fixed in place (though I can't say I've successfully achieved that - yet!)

Water movement: Of paramount importance, in my experience ESPECIALLY with the coldwater types. Without vigorous water movement, fine deposits seem to accumulate on the thalli/fronds and they don't seem to do very well after that. I've had grape caulerpa with less water movement, and they fared considerably better.

Although filtration isn't necessary with the lighter bio-loads, skimming seems quite important. I pull a nice cup of peasoup out of my skimmer every couple of days, especially at this time of year when some of my specimens die-off until spring.

Dosing: CO2 definitely improves things, as does iron (Fe) and iodine (I). I occassionally add Kent Trace Elements, although I'm not sure why (I think I do it more for myself.. . Some calcareous (sp?) types obviously require supplements too. I have one alga that grows on a rock (Corallina officinalis) that is a reddish-purple with white calcified tips. When the calcium in my water is low, it is evident in the alga's tips.

I hope this is of some value to you, as it can be hard to find information on macroalgae sometimes.

Do you have any particular algae in mind for your setup?

Cheers,

RAS


Richard Santink
Mississippi Mills, ON Canada

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125g macroalgae-only tank
Non-CO2
2 x 30W 18K lighting
overdosin' Fe & I
Codium fragile
Chondrus crispus
Chaetomorpha spp.
Corallina officinalis
Zostera marina
  
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