Thanks very much for the reply Flora, and that is a very nice explaination
I have a co2 indicator suction cupped to the glass in the tank...its the Red Sea indicator? It usually goes green by the end of the night, but is blue almost the entire photoperiod

I dont add the N and PO4 because those readings are always about the same. The nitrates never go down, and I have seachem phosguard in my cannister, and the PO4 is always at 1ppm. I have tried to increase dosing on K, and Fe to help with this
Im not sure what you mean by:
"then, get a drop checker and use it with reference 4dKh solution, when it goes green, your on the money. Counting bubbles for co2 is no way to know how much you have in there, and neither are test kits unless you have lab facilities.. you MUST make sure your co2 is in good order or nothings going to get better."
Dunno how to quote things on here yet.....I dunno what you mean by reference 4dKh solution?
I will work on the surface agitation with this other spray bar. I never see pearling in my tank
Would I be able to grow glosso and riccia if I half my lighting? Also, I would like to figure something out with the timers. I have two of the corallife timers, and I have been reading around on here, and would like to figure out a way to have the co2 on about an hour before lights on and then an hour or so before lights off have it shut off? And then run an airstone for a few hours over night....these timers dont allow me to do that
Thanks again very much
Eric
46Gal Acrylic BF, 5" Eco-Complete, Hydor ETH, Rena xP3, Pressurized CO2 System at ~30PPM (On when lights are on), diffused through venturi reactor, 3x39w 6500K T5s (8 hours a day), 3x Discus, 9xCardinals, 1xOtto, 1xQueen Arabesque, 1xEmerald Green Cory Cat, Temp 80F, kH=0, gH=4, 1x50% WC/week with R/O water