One main thing you want to focus on is rather simple, what type of tank do you want?

You have plenty of light.
You have CO2, but it's not being used correctly(not enough CO2 in your tank)
If the 4x96 w lights are A&H supply, you can bend the reflectors out so you can get a better lighting spread that's more even.

I know some folks in this society you belong to, you can ask them about your tap water there. I recall it's fairly soft, low in both KH and GH, but water utilities can vary some also.

Still, even with liquid rock (Very high KH), the pH is way too high if you are using CO2.

You will want to determine what the KH is in the tap.
This will help you to get a better handle on the CO2.

Take a look at this chart.
Measure your KH, then scroll down the chart to find that KH.
Follow that line over till you see 30ppm or close, now you look up and see what pH you need to have that CO2 level.

Note, you need to add more CO2 to drive the pH, do not use anything other than CO2 gas to do this!! Your goal is adding more CO2, not reducing pH. The pH + KH is just a method to measure the CO2 in ppm.

Put another way, if you want more CO2 in the water, add more CO2 gas!
Seems simple and it is, but many get side tracked about pH.

The KH ref drop checker is simple to use and gives continuous CO2 ppms, you no longer need to measure the tank's KH if you use this method.

A drop checker runs about 10-20$, the KH ref solution is sold here from Bill, I think 500mls is like 5.99$ plus shipping. Add some Bromo blue(3 drops of the Bromo blue pH indicator + 6mls of the KH ref solution) to that and the KH solution and then place in the tank.

It no longer matters what the KH is in the tank now to determine the CO2.
Just the pH which you just look at inside the glass drop checker.

So you really do not test at all, KH or pH.
They are pre done for you.

You will add more CO2 via the needle valve if the pH solution inside the checker becomes blue and less if it becomes yellow, the solution is green when you have enough CO2.

**Note correction edit**

You might need more current and flow through the DIY CO2 reactor.
This is a big tank, 2 reactors might be more wise. and then some good current blasting the CO2 enriched outflow all over the tank will help as well.

Gravel, lights, tap water, etc are all fine.

So you address the CO2 and then do EI(see articles index) and you will not need to test no more.

I'd do about 2/3 the suggested volumes for full EI.
There is an EI "light" version as well.
The concept is very simple, but folks still wrestle with it a few times.

I try to cover most of bases, so the reading is dense, most of what I write is that way

From there, you will want to look at the monthly Barr Reports going back at the beginning and read up on them and discuss them here.

This will take time....as in months to read through a lot of it.
But you can pick and chose which topics apply and use it as a resource.
Some parts those reports will go over 95% of the readership's heads.
That's fine, folks can stretch their minds and learn more if they chose, it's not particularly important to rush and try and understanding everything as fast as you can.

What is important is that you discuss and think about what it is you want, and how to deal with the more immediate issues like the algae.

I address algae as a plant growth problem, not a pest/disease.
When the plants are growing well, the algae does not.

So focusing on the plant's health is the best course of action, it makes the most obvious sense(that was what and why most got into the hobby to do -grow plants) and then you no longer chase algae species after species.

Many of the folks here are very helpful and knowledgable.Many are newer folks also, but there are some very seasoned folks as well.



Regards,
Tom Barr